Battery

I wouldn't fit it up full... as std an AGM should be able to be mounted upside down.... effectively DRY !

my view / experience is the absorbed matting needs to be damp enough to be conductive, when bone dry it doesn't work and I should think can allow oxidisation which kills the battery… by adding a small amount of distilled water the matting swells up and starts doing its job.

after my experience on the other AGM battery and the time to soak in, I had planned to put in enough so you couldn't syringe liquid out (end touching the plates.... I'd extended it using a WD40 straw) then wait 30 mins and add 10ml each for good measure…. but the odyssey needed so much... I got a bit board and I decided was so dry and knowing its seems to take a while to absorb and this might take days... I actually left about 30ml more per cell than you could syringe out when I rechecked 12hrs later
 
botus said:
I wouldn't fit it up full... as std an AGM should be able to be mounted upside down.... effectively DRY !

my view / experience is the absorbed matting needs to be damp enough to be conductive, when bone dry it doesn't work and I should think can allow oxidisation which kills the battery… by adding a small amount of distilled water the matting swells up and starts doing its job.

after my experience on the other AGM battery and the time to soak in, I had planned to put in enough so you couldn't syringe liquid out (end touching the plates.... I'd extended it using a WD40 straw) then wait 30 mins and add 10ml each for good measure…. but the odyssey needed so much... I got a bit board and I decided was so dry and knowing its seems to take a while to absorb and this might take days... I actually left about 30ml more per cell than you could syringe out when I rechecked 12hrs later
Click to expand...
Probably good advice for an AGM battery. I was thinking old style lead acid type with a plug for each cell. But saying all of this, I've never ever topped up an AGM battery, and they've all lasted a reasonable amount of time...



Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
the other one is from my car..... at 9 years it always came back after a charge stating "weak" and around 12.1v

after swapping out for a new version of the same (26kg at RRP of £530 !!!) it sat for a year doing nothing... then I read about topping them up.... 4 years on it shows as "strong" and has 12.8v 4 months after a charge... whilst the one in the car struggles to supply the powerstation the manu built... 37amps with the key on, engine off is the standard drain !!!
 
botus said:
I wouldn't fit it up full... as std an AGM should be able to be mounted upside down.... effectively DRY !
Click to expand...

I decided to stop before it was completely filled up - in fact I lost count of how much fluid I added but decided to stop before it was slopping around. I did turn the battery upside down and no fluid leaked out.:)

Anyway, charged it up again with the new CTEK and popped it back into the bike - out for a quick 15 mile circuit before putting it back in the garage on trickle charge with the CTEK again. We'll see how it goes in the coming months.
 
I can find both the MBYZ16H and MBYZ16HD for same price, any advice on which is better?
 
pitrat101 said:
I can find both the MBYZ16H and MBYZ16HD for same price, any advice on which is better?
Click to expand...

They seem to have identical spec and both have a 2 year guarantee. Perhaps they brought out the HD in black & orange as some people were put off with the gaudy yellow version? KTM owners maybe?

Pick your favourite colour
 
Battery purchased now. Let's see if it lives up to its reputation. Can't be worse than what's on. Although I am going to open old one up see how dry it is. Thank for all your input. Some interesting stuff to watch on the new lithium stuff. Just one last thing. Would an optimate be ok with this or best to invest in a motobatt charger for when it's not in use.

Thanks.
 
I have 2 Motobatt with Optimate no problem at all. I find the lead to battery is best but you can charge via the Canbus socket too.
 
Last edited:
Ive had a "maintenance free" car battery dry out in very hot weather. But never had a need to top up a bike battery. I went to lithium for the bike and have not looked back.
 
My new battery has arrived, opened up and noticed only 2 terminal blocks, yet 4 posts, what's best way to connect starter cables? on the provided blocks or straight to the battery, I will be splitting the cables so bike cables on one side accessories on other.

Thanks

Steve
 
that's how my motobatt one for the K1300 was...

Its bit of an issue trying to connect all those wires with so little room. On the odyssey it had far larger terminals and they bolt down rather than a rather lightweight screw (of the motobatt). But even so I spent an hour trying to get stuff routed, connected and shielded well. On the motobatt I can see these silly terminals coming undone with vibration / movement of the battery under duress of our roads and the thickness of 2 x 8mm diameter starter cables the K1300 has. No doubt that will fry the brains of the alternator... and the other 2 terminals whilst seemingly a great idea, are actually a liability as the mounting bracket gets close and I can see these trying to short out and explode the battery (again on the K1300....)

I came to the conclusion its a compromise...
if you want a bank loan, a battery designed to fit and ease of connection go std.
if you want the bike to start and the battery to last longer than 5 mins, you have to compromise on the connections
 
Good thread, wish I'd see it before. I didn't realise you could top them up, just scrapped my trusty Odyssey....sumwhat disgruntled it was only 5 years old
 
that's a shame, mine seems back to good health. Unplugged the charger and left for a few days in the cold. Plugged it back in and voltage tops up to 14v in a few seconds cuts to maint mode and reports condition as " Strong "
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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