2008 F800GS EWS Immobiliser Fault(s) - Problem Solving Help

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I did all I could but without a shed and time I couldn't go pulling at the bike for hours on end so I had to give in and send it to a BMW garage to sort it out, plus they gave me the new 850GS as a loan bike,

Here is the latest, and my god what have I let myself in for :-O

I was given a quote of €426 just for diagnostics so far and €935 for a new ECU (DME) but they don't know if it'll work??

I had informed the garage that I already changed out the ring antenna, battery test etc....

Unfortunately when diagnosing it is a process of elimination, so the tech would start at the cheapest component and work his way through the test schedule. See report below:

“Connected ISID tried several times to carry out quick test as unable to establish link due to EWS fault. Eventually carried out quick test. EWS not responding. Removed steering lock to investigate. Retaining clip for antenna ring Arial broken. After several attempts ignition turned on and bike started. Will need to replace pick up arial and recheck. “

Do you have an out come yet.???
Took Mine to a dealer we have same problem and they said ECU dead they have no connection (New ECU needed )
I,m currently opened up my ecu with a electrical engineer friend to see if we can work out a fix . The parts are cheap if you can work out which one is a dud part.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for f800gs???
 
Do you have an out come yet.???
Took Mine to a dealer we have same problem and they said ECU dead they have no connection (New ECU needed )
I,m currently opened up my ecu with a electrical engineer friend to see if we can work out a fix . The parts are cheap if you can work out which one is a dud part.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for f800gs???

No, I've lost all respect for them and competence to do the job effectively, they've done nothing in over a week.

They wanted over €800 up front so they could order a new ECU from Germany, it'll take up to 7 days now for delivery. Basically they've no confidence they have a solution and want me to pay for everything while going through potential causes.

They verified that they checked all wiring from ECU and no issues found so it must be the ECU but they said they will need to run tests again.

I was looking for wiring diagrams before and couldn't find any freely available or from any contacts.

You can buy the BMW workshop manual online or I've recently found out that Haynes Manual has electrical diagrams, you can buy online versions.

Best of luck with it, let me know how you get on, I wish i'd a friend like that.

A top auto electrician here in Galway city wouldn't even look at it for me so had no option but to send it to nearest BMW garage.
 
Hi

Not good news for you. As mentioned before, I had to bite the bullet and have a new ECU fitted since that was the only option. However, I didn't have to pay up front for it and the dealers are pretty good - Alan Jeffries in Shipley. They already had one in stock though, or at least they got it quickly. It then had to be coded to the bike - a dealer only thing. Touch wood - it will outlast the bike now
 
Hows all,

Got an update today from BMW that the bike is running ok again after Replacing the ECU. Thankfully the issues seems to be sorted but i'm now left with a huge bill after it all.

The only consolation is i've got their brand new 850GS as a replacement the last few weeks and it has been a beauty to ride, impressive machine, will be sad to bring it back.
 
Hows all,

Got an update today from BMW that the bike is running ok again after Replacing the ECU. Thankfully the issues seems to be sorted but i'm now left with a huge bill after it all.

The only consolation is i've got their brand new 850GS as a replacement the last few weeks and it has been a beauty to ride, impressive machine, will be sad to bring it back.

Slightly off topic, but my dealer does a good job of guessing what bike I might want next and letting me have one as a loan bike. They know I'm weak.
 
Hows all,

Got an update today from BMW that the bike is running ok again after Replacing the ECU. Thankfully the issues seems to be sorted but i'm now left with a huge bill after it all.

The only consolation is i've got their brand new 850GS as a replacement the last few weeks and it has been a beauty to ride, impressive machine, will be sad to bring it back.

Told ya !

I had mine serviced last week and I asked if the dealers had had any more ECU failures since mine and they said , none that they can remember .. so not too common..just unlucky
 
Yeah i'm down on my luck unfortunately.

A question for anyone who has had dealings with Kearys BMW Cork: what has your experience been like?

When I dropped in my bike, they told me a health check would be carried out and I highlighted how a bolt was missing from the windscreen to front fairing.

When I got the bike back a MONTH later:

- Front tyre was 20 psi (should be ~32 psi)
- back tyre was 32 psi (should be ~ 36 psi)
- chain was completely dried out
- Left heated grip was not fixed
- bolt still missing from fairing
- front wheel still squeaking
- fog light bulb not changed
- not cleaned

I've never had a bill so high for a vehicle and such a bad experience from lack of service :-/

I had a small accident on an icy road to my E class amg a few years ago, that was fixed for half the price and I was well looked after in comparison.
 
I trust you complained to the Dealer Principal - this is sloppy, verging on dangerous.

Sadly I don't think you have the dealer representation we enjoy here in the UK, so I am a little unclear who actually administers, or sits above Motorrad.ie if you need to escalate a complaint - whether it is UK or the mothership in Berlin.
 
It is pisspoor customer service and dangerous too.

I have a friend whose brand new R1200RT was not prepped for delivery correctly - l finger tight brake caliper bolts, pallet strapping still attached to headstock. He made a real fuss (quite rightly) and got some free servicing and goodies out of them.
 
Hi guys.

I typed bits oft this in a PM the other day, but thought it may be useful to others...

Disclaimer: I am no expert. Take the below as exactly what it is: ramblings of a random bloke on t'Internet. It is a pointer to start googling and investigating further. My motive is only to offer info to try to offer some info to help fellow bikers.

So, that out of the way, EWS (Electronische Wegfahrsperre) can come up as an error for many reasons, but thinking logically... Simplistically speaking, the bike key holds a passive "chip" inside it with a code, it goes in to the antenna which [given that the electronic power is there] agitates the key chip and "reads" the code off the chip, sends it to the ECU, which, then, compares it with the stored value and allows the bike to be started if they match. So, components involved : Key, antenna, some wiring, ECU [and indirectly the battery].

So... if the low-beam stays on, there is no whirring from the idle-actuator, no pulse on the fuel pump and no gear indication on the LCD... those symptoms are the same as it the ECU [BMSK-P] was actually completely disconnected. It would then not be illogical to think that the ECU is not booting up. If you can use a multimeter, you can do some basic tests. Head to the smaller of the two ECU connectors under the seat. Disconnect it and do some continuity/voltage tests. If I remember the pinouts correctly (let me know if they are not as expected and I will double-check/correct the post for future reads):

1) Firstly, check that you are getting power to the ECU. You should have the battery voltage [~12V] across pin-3 (-) and Pin-6 (+). (Pin-34 should be the switched +12V [i.e. ON when IGN ON]). The belts-and-braces method is to wire a consumer (like a small automotive (12V) light-bulb) to those to check for the solid current under load.

2) Check you are getting good earth too.(continuity to the frame/engine/battery(=) @ pin 3) may as well check the brown cable going from the battery(-) to the engine on the left side, near the starter.

3) Since you are already at the ECU connector, If you have disconnected the ring-antenna, you may as well check the continuity to the ring antenna; Although that is unlikely to be the problem at this stage, If the theory is sound and the ECU is not booting up at all.
Pins 1234 @ ring antenna should have continuity to pins 8,43,55,57 on the smaller ECU connector, respectively. Numbers are cast into the connector but are very small. Top-tip: Use your phone camera for magnifying if your eyesight fails you in this endeavour. :) Ensure that there is no continuity between the ring-antenna connector pins too (in case of cables chafing against eachother)
[You may need some pins to insert into the connectors if your multimeter probes are too fat.]

If all of this is as expected, chances are the ECU has a problem and is not booting up...
Hope that helps someone...

This information is what makes the internet, and this forum, beautiful :beerjug: :okay
I have my bike repaired for this problem right now. I ll let you know if this helped
 
This information is what makes the internet, and this forum, beautiful :beerjug: :okay
I have my bike repaired for this problem right now. I ll let you know if this helped

Glad to be able to help... Good luck and keep us posted, mate.
 
As I said, my ECUs problem was the exact one that abraxas was describing, which is a sudden powering off/disconnection of the ECU (while driving). At times the ECU didnt want to boot up at all which resulted in a immobile motorcycle.
I could have given the ECU to a friend who generally repairs electronic devices, but the fact that the bike stalls while running is something that forced me to go with a more sure solution.
I decided to go ahead and have a used ECU installed from another bike in an authorised workshop, but not the dealership.
The ECU is then sent to the dealership to erase any errors from the new ECU,make sure there will be no future problems due to the different frame number of the used ECU and then be stored at the BMW database.
I am quite dissapointed, because the bike was generally well maintened on time and always at the dealership. I intend to keep it though and hope it will not reoccur, as I dont see any alternative bike that makes sense for me right now.
 
As this is a public forum and we should all try to help each other, If I were to do something differently or more economically, another option could possibly have been to buy a used ECU (with keys and locks) of ebay from a F800S of F800ST.
Reason is because these seem to go for around 150-250 euros whereas the F800gs ECUs with keys and locks go for around 450-500 euros.
The motor is the same, logic says that the ECU will fit the f800gs as well.
An aparrent extra cost at the dealership will be necessary for around 50-100 euros to register the new ECU.
Just a thought though, dont know if its possible, as I chose to have the job done by a professional.
 
ECU failure

Well I think I can add my 2008 bike to the list of ECU failures.

Exactly the same symptoms as those posted.

Bugger!

Has anybody figured out whether a second hand ECU from a different 800 will work on the GS?

And by ECU are we talking the one under the seat of the one by the battery - the ZFE?
 
Sorry to hear of the issues you are having. What makes you think it is the ZFE and not BMSK-P?

Ah I read it again. You are asking not telling. If it is the same issues as above it is likely to be BMSKP [ECU, the one under the seat] rather than ZFE. Yes they are interchangeable…but… should be the same or as close bike as yours (alarm, options etc) and you need to change the ignition lock, as the key data is stored in the ECU. The mileage is stored in KOMBI (the clocks/instrument cluster) too and if it doesn’t match the ECU, it will flash showing that it has been changed. Royal pain they are…

Did you try reading the codes? Anything coming up on diags GS911 or rheingold/ dealer? Have you tried tracing issues in the loom? May be a simple broken wire? (Although don’t want to get your hopes up < it may well not be] each issue is different don’t jump to conclusions is what i meant to say… :) good luck!
 
Sorry to hear of the issues you are having. What makes you think it is the ZFE and not BMSK-P?

Ah I read it again. You are asking not telling. If it is the same issues as above it is likely to be BMSKP [ECU, the one under the seat] rather than ZFE. Yes they are interchangeable…but… should be the same or as close bike as yours (alarm, options etc) and you need to change the ignition lock, as the key data is stored in the ECU. The mileage is stored in KOMBI (the clocks/instrument cluster) too and if it doesn’t match the ECU, it will flash showing that it has been changed. Royal pain they are…

Did you try reading the codes? Anything coming up on diags GS911 or rheingold/ dealer? Have you tried tracing issues in the loom? May be a simple broken wire? (Although don’t want to get your hopes up < it may well not be] each issue is different don’t jump to conclusions is what i meant to say… :) good luck!

The mileage is also stored in other modules on the bus, that's how it works out if the combi (or other modules) have been changed, the reference value returned, from the kombi,

doesn't match the one's stored. there are ways to reset, but it takes the higher value stored
 
Yeah, same codes as previous posters.

I've got the ECU's unbolted and jiggling the wiring looms about doesn't seem to change things.

Started off intermittent immediately after fitting a Boosterplug - like within half a mile. Then started, then died again within half a mile, then started and ran for three hours without fault.

Then died and wouldn't start, so I removed the boosterplug and it started.

Worked fine for another hour, then died. Then started and ran for half hour then died and wouldn't start again. Had to be recovered from Wales to Gloucester.

At home it ran again for 5 minutes then died, and is now permanently showing EWS with dip beam on. Temperature warning is also flashing. No gear indication.

Jiggling wiring looms doesn't have any effect, though I've yet to strip insulating tape off and have a good look.

Owned the bike 12 years, so know its entire history. Never let me down before!
 
Yeah. Sorry. That does sound like a BMSKP that is not booting up. If the low-beam stays on, and nothing on the trip computer (no gear indication) that does match the symptoms. Funnily enough, the temp reading is on when ECU is not present. One way to verify is to disconnect the ECU and turn the ignition on. You'll see that the same things happen ( un-scientific, but hey...)

Very low probability but worth a try as it is free - Can you charge the battery up to max and try again (or swap with another known good)? The voltage may be too low to start properly. Again, low probability, so don't get your hopes up.

If you have someone near you with a bike you can try swapping bits about, you could do that to verify, but I always felt it is a bit " too much to ask" as it can render someone else's bike inoperative.

Your options from here (in my uneducated opinion, others may add) :

1) You can try the dealers, but they will not sell you second-hand ECU, are likely to charge you north of £1000 for the new ECU and the programming (I have been told).
+ Your old keys will continue working and all will be well.
- it is really expensive.

2) You can try Motorworks / other bike breakers. They sometimes have the ECU+locks+Keys for sale from a crashed bike that cannot be put back on road.
- Unless you buy the KOMBI too, the mileage will flash (if that bothers you) [* There are ways to fix this, but involves flashing the ECU like 3 below].
- You can be inheriting other issues (low likelihood, tho)
- The VIN will be mismatched between the ECU flash and the frame. Only visible through OBDII diagnostics, though.
- Have to be careful with the options - for example if you have the alarm or not.needs to match the other bike. (can be altered with coding though, just more faf / expense)
+ Much cheaper than 1
+ Straight swap, no coding required.

3) You can try to get your ECU cloned over to another used one. You'll need to find similar ECU and someone with tools and know-how to do this.
+ Your keys will still work and the mileage wil match
+ Cheaper.
- Loads of dodgy / incompetent people advertising the service. [some geniuses too, but knowing them apart...]
- May involve trial and error.

Hope that helps. You now know way more than I did when I was researching things faced with the same issue.
Disclaimer: I am no expert by a long stretch, just someone good at googling and doggedly determined when faced with a problem. :)
 
Thanks Abraxas, really helpful.

Sadly I can rule out the battery - have swapped with another new from from a different bike / monitored voltage and all good.

I guess the weird bit is why it was intermittent and not a permanent failure. Typically electronics fail and stay failed, whereas dodgy wiring can be intermittent but it all looks fine...

Equally worrying is the possibility of the boosterplug being the cause. If I send it back citing the bike symptoms I would expect the maker to deny any fault (or accept liability and a bill for a new ECU!).

What is the likelihood of a short circuit on the temp probe line causing destruction of an ECU? I'd expect them.to be protected against this given it is an expected failure mode.

If it wasn't the boosterplug, what else has caused the ECU to fail? Is that fault still present and going to destroy a new one too?

First World problems eh? Need to keep this in perspective.
 
I'm pretty sure that there was somone one here with the same symptoms,

he fitted a SH ECU & keys etc from the bay coat about £300 i think and then an hour at the dealers to marry everything together


cheaper than the prices you quoted
 


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