My earlier trip across Alaska in June had lit the travel fuse and it was burning brightly. Having flown half way around the world to experience the wilderness factor, it made me think that I hadn’t even visited the highlights of my home country.
Monday July 25th
It’s an early start as I kick off the 241mile journey to Pembroke ferry terminal in Wales for the 2.30pm four hour crossing to Rosslare in Ireland. Having to wear my thermals was an unexpected surprise and the heated grips could have cooked a Christmas dinner by the time I arrive. That of course assumes the turkey didn’t drown in the monsoon rain from London to around Bristol.
By the time I get off the ferry its 7pm and I have a further 160miles to ride to Kinsale, just south of Cork City. The GPS shows my route to the main N25, unfortunately it’s nothing similar to our own blessed M25, merely an equivalent “A” road with a 60mph limit. I’d been worried about GPS accuracy in Ireland but have to say it was faultless and I arrive in Kinsale at 9.30pm. I’m using the Georgina Campbell Guide to Ireland and my first night is at the Chart House B&B just off Denis Quay (www.charthouse-kinsale.com). Owners Billy and Mary have a smart three storey town house and they allow me to hide the GS around the back. Dinner is fish and chips on the Quay followed by a mandatory pint of the black stuff and a Bushmills night cap to ease me through the jet-lag.
Tuesday 26th
In stark contrast to my start yesterday, I’m greeted by blue skies and clean air. Scrambled eggs and salmon provide the initial days fuel and then it’s on the road again. My plan is to religiously stay to the coastal roads which looks easy enough on the map. The pace is considerably easier and the roads instantly bring a smile to my face. Out of Kinsale and west towards Clonakilty, Skibbereen with my first stop at Mizen Head. There’s an almost tropical feel to the coast with Caribbean type beaches. Mizen Head is the most southwesterly place in Ireland.
By this stage the roads are narrow and minus any markings apart from cow pats. The photo below shows the propeller of the steamship Iruda which sank off the Head on December 22nd 1908. It was only recovered in 1995 and weighs 10tons. Much the same as my panniers then.
Lunch is a sandwich in Glengariff as I look forward to one of the highlights of the trip, the Beara Peninsula. Friends had said that it was equally as impressive as the Ring of Kerry minus the tourist buses. The fuel reserve light has been flashing for the past twenty miles and it’s a relief when I find a 21st century Irish service station.
Petrol, diesel, oil and Guinness, what more do you need?
Around a tight bend is a sign to the Healy Pass. It’s not in the GPS or on my map but I didn’t have these knobbly tyres fitted for nothing. It’s spectacular. Resembling an alpine pass it twists and turn up the side of the Caha Mountains.
As I crest the top of the Pass, a sign says “Welcome to Kerry.” The view is breathtaking; they’ve laid out the green carpet for me.
The road follows a similar winding route down towards Kenmare and the start of the Ring of Kerry. It’s with relief that the main road is not packed with Starbucks, Gap, WHSmith or Dixons like so many towns in England.
I’d read about the Gap of Dunloe which runs through the middle of the Ring North towards Killorgin. It wasn’t a disappointment.
It’s around 4pm by this stage and I turn towards my nights stop in Dingle. I smile and laugh as I pass a sign towards Inch Beach. Memories of fellow UKGSer Joyseekers U-Boat impression on his new bike flood back, literally.
I could live in Dingle. It’s almost tropical.
I’m staying at Heatons House www.heathonsdingle.com) and Cameron and Nuala Heaton couldn’t be friendlier. They’ve reserved a table for me at Out of the Blue, a five minute walk from the house. It won the Best Seafood Restaurant in Ireland 2005 award and is as good as it sounds. You always get slightly funny looks when dining on your own; is he a restaurant critic? Has he been stood up? Is he billy-no-mates? No one every thinks, ah he must be a motorcycle traveller with the wind in his hair, the freedom of the open road and a highly understanding wife. Perhaps I should leave some of the flies in my teeth next time. I get talking to the owner Tim Mason who escaped from London to paradise many years back. Funny that he wouldn’t go back. After a fine supper of squid and turbot, he sends me on towards McCartneys Bar on Goat Street for a Guinness.
Wednesday 27th
It’s another chapter in It’s a Dog’s Life. Waking to clean air, blue skies, scrambled eggs and kippers this morning. I don’t think I can take much more of this. By this stage I’ve already called the wife and told her to sell everything, we’re moving to southwest Ireland.
I head north out of Dingle over the Connor Pass. These views are getting boring now I’m sure you’ll agree.
I pass Tralee and ride towards Tarbert where there’s a ferry across the Mouth of the Shannon to Kilrush. At EUR8 it’s a bargain.
On the other side I take the road towards the Cliffs of Moher. Unfortunately the cast of Ben Hur have also decided to visit the cliffs so I ride on towards Doolin Point for lunch. Sitting on the pier, it’s an equally good place to view the cliffs.
Tourists are packing the boats for trips to the Aran Islands although whoever christened the boat the “Happy Hooker” was obviously suffering from island fever at the time or perhaps there’s more to Inishmore than is in my guide book!
Next it’s the Burren. Roads corkscrew, swoop and sweep past Lisdoonvarna and Ballyvaughan. I don’t linger in Galway given the traffic and take the coastal road towards that nights stop in Letterfrack in Connemara. In stark contrast to the green and natural beauty of southwest Ireland, Connemara is like the moon. It’s mostly rocky, barren and wild. Roads also have a habit of turning to gravel, especially on bends. How’s your Irish? Why? Well because the signs here are not in English and without the GPS I’d probably still be there.
I’m staying at the Rosleague Manor Hotel (www.rosleague.com). Slumming it, I am not. Owned by a former English tea merchant, the “house” is stunning. Cleaned up, I relax with a Guinness followed by dinner. I retire to a deck chair in the front garden at 10pm with a glass of Bushmills and views over the Maumturk Mountains. This is living.
Thursday 28th
The Connemara National Park is only a mile up the road.
Further on I make a quick stop at Kylemore Abbey.
Past Westport, Newport and then west towards Achill Island.
Back and through the Nephin Beg Range stopping at The Mullet then north towards that nights stop at Aughris Head. The roads past Downpatrick Head are very wind swept and sheep randomly stray across the road. Having weathered wondering moose in Alaska a few weeks earlier, I was well prepared. I’m staying at the Beach Bar/Aughris House.
Dinner is in the picturesque Beach Bar also owned by the same family. The welcome and food are both excellent.
Friday 29th
My final day in Eire. It’s a straight forward ride past Sligo, Donegal town and towards the coastal town of Ardara. I can see why there are so many good Irish rally drivers. The roads aren’t betting much better out here.
Past Genties, Dungloe and then one of the highlights. The road through Glenveagh National Park and the Derryveagh Mountains. As Captain Kirk barked to Scottie, “I need more power!” This road goes on my list of the greats. Next to no traffic, sweeping roads, views for miles. I’ll be back to ride this one again.
I take the ferry from Rathmullan to Buncrana across Lough Swilly to ride the final road that day towards Malin Head, the most northerly part of Ireland. The ferry captain has directed me towards the Inis Eoghain 100 route and Momore Gap. Wow! The road up to the gap resembles a track from Lord of the Rings. It’s straight, narrow and climbs at an unbelievable rate. I had to take some parts in first gear. Momore Gap is literally that, a small gap in the mountains which then leads down an equally steep road towards Malin Head.
Eventually I reach Malin Head.
I meet my parents, brothers, wives and girlfriends at Kealys Fish Restaurant in Greencastle. We catch the final ferry across Lough Foyle to Magilligan Point and then on to Coleraine.
Sunday 31st
We stayed in Ballycastle on the Saturday night and I’d strongly recommend Wysners for dinner and Tessies(aka the Anglers Arms aka Bakewells, it has three names!) for drinks afterwards. The town is a major meeting point for bikers on a Sunday morning being surrounded by cracking roads.
A final breakfast at the beach bar before I set off along the coast road past Torr Head, Cushendun, Cushendall and Larne. Then it was the long 260mile ride south towards that nights stop at Kilmore Quay (www.kilmorequay.net) just 14 miles from Rosslare ferry terminal ahead of my return on Monday.
In total from Kingston-upon-Thames, around Ireland and back was 1,850 miles. I’d stick to the same route if I was doing it again. The combination of scenery and Irish hospitality made for a very memorable trip.
Jeremy
Monday July 25th
It’s an early start as I kick off the 241mile journey to Pembroke ferry terminal in Wales for the 2.30pm four hour crossing to Rosslare in Ireland. Having to wear my thermals was an unexpected surprise and the heated grips could have cooked a Christmas dinner by the time I arrive. That of course assumes the turkey didn’t drown in the monsoon rain from London to around Bristol.
By the time I get off the ferry its 7pm and I have a further 160miles to ride to Kinsale, just south of Cork City. The GPS shows my route to the main N25, unfortunately it’s nothing similar to our own blessed M25, merely an equivalent “A” road with a 60mph limit. I’d been worried about GPS accuracy in Ireland but have to say it was faultless and I arrive in Kinsale at 9.30pm. I’m using the Georgina Campbell Guide to Ireland and my first night is at the Chart House B&B just off Denis Quay (www.charthouse-kinsale.com). Owners Billy and Mary have a smart three storey town house and they allow me to hide the GS around the back. Dinner is fish and chips on the Quay followed by a mandatory pint of the black stuff and a Bushmills night cap to ease me through the jet-lag.
Tuesday 26th
In stark contrast to my start yesterday, I’m greeted by blue skies and clean air. Scrambled eggs and salmon provide the initial days fuel and then it’s on the road again. My plan is to religiously stay to the coastal roads which looks easy enough on the map. The pace is considerably easier and the roads instantly bring a smile to my face. Out of Kinsale and west towards Clonakilty, Skibbereen with my first stop at Mizen Head. There’s an almost tropical feel to the coast with Caribbean type beaches. Mizen Head is the most southwesterly place in Ireland.
By this stage the roads are narrow and minus any markings apart from cow pats. The photo below shows the propeller of the steamship Iruda which sank off the Head on December 22nd 1908. It was only recovered in 1995 and weighs 10tons. Much the same as my panniers then.
Lunch is a sandwich in Glengariff as I look forward to one of the highlights of the trip, the Beara Peninsula. Friends had said that it was equally as impressive as the Ring of Kerry minus the tourist buses. The fuel reserve light has been flashing for the past twenty miles and it’s a relief when I find a 21st century Irish service station.
Petrol, diesel, oil and Guinness, what more do you need?
Around a tight bend is a sign to the Healy Pass. It’s not in the GPS or on my map but I didn’t have these knobbly tyres fitted for nothing. It’s spectacular. Resembling an alpine pass it twists and turn up the side of the Caha Mountains.
As I crest the top of the Pass, a sign says “Welcome to Kerry.” The view is breathtaking; they’ve laid out the green carpet for me.
The road follows a similar winding route down towards Kenmare and the start of the Ring of Kerry. It’s with relief that the main road is not packed with Starbucks, Gap, WHSmith or Dixons like so many towns in England.
I’d read about the Gap of Dunloe which runs through the middle of the Ring North towards Killorgin. It wasn’t a disappointment.
It’s around 4pm by this stage and I turn towards my nights stop in Dingle. I smile and laugh as I pass a sign towards Inch Beach. Memories of fellow UKGSer Joyseekers U-Boat impression on his new bike flood back, literally.
I could live in Dingle. It’s almost tropical.
I’m staying at Heatons House www.heathonsdingle.com) and Cameron and Nuala Heaton couldn’t be friendlier. They’ve reserved a table for me at Out of the Blue, a five minute walk from the house. It won the Best Seafood Restaurant in Ireland 2005 award and is as good as it sounds. You always get slightly funny looks when dining on your own; is he a restaurant critic? Has he been stood up? Is he billy-no-mates? No one every thinks, ah he must be a motorcycle traveller with the wind in his hair, the freedom of the open road and a highly understanding wife. Perhaps I should leave some of the flies in my teeth next time. I get talking to the owner Tim Mason who escaped from London to paradise many years back. Funny that he wouldn’t go back. After a fine supper of squid and turbot, he sends me on towards McCartneys Bar on Goat Street for a Guinness.
Wednesday 27th
It’s another chapter in It’s a Dog’s Life. Waking to clean air, blue skies, scrambled eggs and kippers this morning. I don’t think I can take much more of this. By this stage I’ve already called the wife and told her to sell everything, we’re moving to southwest Ireland.
I head north out of Dingle over the Connor Pass. These views are getting boring now I’m sure you’ll agree.
I pass Tralee and ride towards Tarbert where there’s a ferry across the Mouth of the Shannon to Kilrush. At EUR8 it’s a bargain.
On the other side I take the road towards the Cliffs of Moher. Unfortunately the cast of Ben Hur have also decided to visit the cliffs so I ride on towards Doolin Point for lunch. Sitting on the pier, it’s an equally good place to view the cliffs.
Tourists are packing the boats for trips to the Aran Islands although whoever christened the boat the “Happy Hooker” was obviously suffering from island fever at the time or perhaps there’s more to Inishmore than is in my guide book!
Next it’s the Burren. Roads corkscrew, swoop and sweep past Lisdoonvarna and Ballyvaughan. I don’t linger in Galway given the traffic and take the coastal road towards that nights stop in Letterfrack in Connemara. In stark contrast to the green and natural beauty of southwest Ireland, Connemara is like the moon. It’s mostly rocky, barren and wild. Roads also have a habit of turning to gravel, especially on bends. How’s your Irish? Why? Well because the signs here are not in English and without the GPS I’d probably still be there.
I’m staying at the Rosleague Manor Hotel (www.rosleague.com). Slumming it, I am not. Owned by a former English tea merchant, the “house” is stunning. Cleaned up, I relax with a Guinness followed by dinner. I retire to a deck chair in the front garden at 10pm with a glass of Bushmills and views over the Maumturk Mountains. This is living.
Thursday 28th
The Connemara National Park is only a mile up the road.
Further on I make a quick stop at Kylemore Abbey.
Past Westport, Newport and then west towards Achill Island.
Back and through the Nephin Beg Range stopping at The Mullet then north towards that nights stop at Aughris Head. The roads past Downpatrick Head are very wind swept and sheep randomly stray across the road. Having weathered wondering moose in Alaska a few weeks earlier, I was well prepared. I’m staying at the Beach Bar/Aughris House.
Dinner is in the picturesque Beach Bar also owned by the same family. The welcome and food are both excellent.
Friday 29th
My final day in Eire. It’s a straight forward ride past Sligo, Donegal town and towards the coastal town of Ardara. I can see why there are so many good Irish rally drivers. The roads aren’t betting much better out here.
Past Genties, Dungloe and then one of the highlights. The road through Glenveagh National Park and the Derryveagh Mountains. As Captain Kirk barked to Scottie, “I need more power!” This road goes on my list of the greats. Next to no traffic, sweeping roads, views for miles. I’ll be back to ride this one again.
I take the ferry from Rathmullan to Buncrana across Lough Swilly to ride the final road that day towards Malin Head, the most northerly part of Ireland. The ferry captain has directed me towards the Inis Eoghain 100 route and Momore Gap. Wow! The road up to the gap resembles a track from Lord of the Rings. It’s straight, narrow and climbs at an unbelievable rate. I had to take some parts in first gear. Momore Gap is literally that, a small gap in the mountains which then leads down an equally steep road towards Malin Head.
Eventually I reach Malin Head.
I meet my parents, brothers, wives and girlfriends at Kealys Fish Restaurant in Greencastle. We catch the final ferry across Lough Foyle to Magilligan Point and then on to Coleraine.
Sunday 31st
We stayed in Ballycastle on the Saturday night and I’d strongly recommend Wysners for dinner and Tessies(aka the Anglers Arms aka Bakewells, it has three names!) for drinks afterwards. The town is a major meeting point for bikers on a Sunday morning being surrounded by cracking roads.
A final breakfast at the beach bar before I set off along the coast road past Torr Head, Cushendun, Cushendall and Larne. Then it was the long 260mile ride south towards that nights stop at Kilmore Quay (www.kilmorequay.net) just 14 miles from Rosslare ferry terminal ahead of my return on Monday.
In total from Kingston-upon-Thames, around Ireland and back was 1,850 miles. I’d stick to the same route if I was doing it again. The combination of scenery and Irish hospitality made for a very memorable trip.
Jeremy