Just back from riding the coast of Ireland

Jeremy

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Sep 4, 2004
Messages
1,362
Reaction score
16
Location
London
My earlier trip across Alaska in June had lit the travel fuse and it was burning brightly. Having flown half way around the world to experience the wilderness factor, it made me think that I hadn’t even visited the highlights of my home country.

Monday July 25th
It’s an early start as I kick off the 241mile journey to Pembroke ferry terminal in Wales for the 2.30pm four hour crossing to Rosslare in Ireland. Having to wear my thermals was an unexpected surprise and the heated grips could have cooked a Christmas dinner by the time I arrive. That of course assumes the turkey didn’t drown in the monsoon rain from London to around Bristol.

By the time I get off the ferry its 7pm and I have a further 160miles to ride to Kinsale, just south of Cork City. The GPS shows my route to the main N25, unfortunately it’s nothing similar to our own blessed M25, merely an equivalent “A” road with a 60mph limit. I’d been worried about GPS accuracy in Ireland but have to say it was faultless and I arrive in Kinsale at 9.30pm. I’m using the Georgina Campbell Guide to Ireland and my first night is at the Chart House B&B just off Denis Quay (www.charthouse-kinsale.com). Owners Billy and Mary have a smart three storey town house and they allow me to hide the GS around the back. Dinner is fish and chips on the Quay followed by a mandatory pint of the black stuff and a Bushmills night cap to ease me through the jet-lag.

2053.jpg


Tuesday 26th
In stark contrast to my start yesterday, I’m greeted by blue skies and clean air. Scrambled eggs and salmon provide the initial days fuel and then it’s on the road again. My plan is to religiously stay to the coastal roads which looks easy enough on the map. The pace is considerably easier and the roads instantly bring a smile to my face. Out of Kinsale and west towards Clonakilty, Skibbereen with my first stop at Mizen Head. There’s an almost tropical feel to the coast with Caribbean type beaches. Mizen Head is the most southwesterly place in Ireland.

2055.jpg


2056.jpg


By this stage the roads are narrow and minus any markings apart from cow pats. The photo below shows the propeller of the steamship Iruda which sank off the Head on December 22nd 1908. It was only recovered in 1995 and weighs 10tons. Much the same as my panniers then.

2054.jpg


Lunch is a sandwich in Glengariff as I look forward to one of the highlights of the trip, the Beara Peninsula. Friends had said that it was equally as impressive as the Ring of Kerry minus the tourist buses. The fuel reserve light has been flashing for the past twenty miles and it’s a relief when I find a 21st century Irish service station.

2057.jpg


Petrol, diesel, oil and Guinness, what more do you need?

Around a tight bend is a sign to the Healy Pass. It’s not in the GPS or on my map but I didn’t have these knobbly tyres fitted for nothing. It’s spectacular. Resembling an alpine pass it twists and turn up the side of the Caha Mountains.

2058.jpg


2059.jpg


As I crest the top of the Pass, a sign says “Welcome to Kerry.” The view is breathtaking; they’ve laid out the green carpet for me.

2060.jpg


2061.jpg


2062.jpg


The road follows a similar winding route down towards Kenmare and the start of the Ring of Kerry. It’s with relief that the main road is not packed with Starbucks, Gap, WHSmith or Dixons like so many towns in England.

2063.jpg


I’d read about the Gap of Dunloe which runs through the middle of the Ring North towards Killorgin. It wasn’t a disappointment.

2064.jpg


2065.jpg


2066.jpg


It’s around 4pm by this stage and I turn towards my nights stop in Dingle. I smile and laugh as I pass a sign towards Inch Beach. Memories of fellow UKGSer Joyseekers U-Boat impression on his new bike flood back, literally.

2067.jpg


2068.jpg


I could live in Dingle. It’s almost tropical.

2034.jpg


I’m staying at Heatons House www.heathonsdingle.com) and Cameron and Nuala Heaton couldn’t be friendlier. They’ve reserved a table for me at Out of the Blue, a five minute walk from the house. It won the Best Seafood Restaurant in Ireland 2005 award and is as good as it sounds. You always get slightly funny looks when dining on your own; is he a restaurant critic? Has he been stood up? Is he billy-no-mates? No one every thinks, ah he must be a motorcycle traveller with the wind in his hair, the freedom of the open road and a highly understanding wife. Perhaps I should leave some of the flies in my teeth next time. I get talking to the owner Tim Mason who escaped from London to paradise many years back. Funny that he wouldn’t go back. After a fine supper of squid and turbot, he sends me on towards McCartneys Bar on Goat Street for a Guinness.

Wednesday 27th
It’s another chapter in It’s a Dog’s Life. Waking to clean air, blue skies, scrambled eggs and kippers this morning. I don’t think I can take much more of this. By this stage I’ve already called the wife and told her to sell everything, we’re moving to southwest Ireland.

I head north out of Dingle over the Connor Pass. These views are getting boring now I’m sure you’ll agree.

2035.jpg


2036.jpg


2037.jpg


I pass Tralee and ride towards Tarbert where there’s a ferry across the Mouth of the Shannon to Kilrush. At EUR8 it’s a bargain.

2038.jpg


On the other side I take the road towards the Cliffs of Moher. Unfortunately the cast of Ben Hur have also decided to visit the cliffs so I ride on towards Doolin Point for lunch. Sitting on the pier, it’s an equally good place to view the cliffs.

2040.jpg


Tourists are packing the boats for trips to the Aran Islands although whoever christened the boat the “Happy Hooker” was obviously suffering from island fever at the time or perhaps there’s more to Inishmore than is in my guide book!

2039.jpg


Next it’s the Burren. Roads corkscrew, swoop and sweep past Lisdoonvarna and Ballyvaughan. I don’t linger in Galway given the traffic and take the coastal road towards that nights stop in Letterfrack in Connemara. In stark contrast to the green and natural beauty of southwest Ireland, Connemara is like the moon. It’s mostly rocky, barren and wild. Roads also have a habit of turning to gravel, especially on bends. How’s your Irish? Why? Well because the signs here are not in English and without the GPS I’d probably still be there.
I’m staying at the Rosleague Manor Hotel (www.rosleague.com). Slumming it, I am not. Owned by a former English tea merchant, the “house” is stunning. Cleaned up, I relax with a Guinness followed by dinner. I retire to a deck chair in the front garden at 10pm with a glass of Bushmills and views over the Maumturk Mountains. This is living.

Thursday 28th
The Connemara National Park is only a mile up the road.

2042.jpg


2044.jpg


Further on I make a quick stop at Kylemore Abbey.

2043.jpg


Past Westport, Newport and then west towards Achill Island.

2045.jpg


Back and through the Nephin Beg Range stopping at The Mullet then north towards that nights stop at Aughris Head. The roads past Downpatrick Head are very wind swept and sheep randomly stray across the road. Having weathered wondering moose in Alaska a few weeks earlier, I was well prepared. I’m staying at the Beach Bar/Aughris House.

2046.jpg


Dinner is in the picturesque Beach Bar also owned by the same family. The welcome and food are both excellent.

Friday 29th
My final day in Eire. It’s a straight forward ride past Sligo, Donegal town and towards the coastal town of Ardara. I can see why there are so many good Irish rally drivers. The roads aren’t betting much better out here.

2047.jpg


Past Genties, Dungloe and then one of the highlights. The road through Glenveagh National Park and the Derryveagh Mountains. As Captain Kirk barked to Scottie, “I need more power!” This road goes on my list of the greats. Next to no traffic, sweeping roads, views for miles. I’ll be back to ride this one again.

I take the ferry from Rathmullan to Buncrana across Lough Swilly to ride the final road that day towards Malin Head, the most northerly part of Ireland. The ferry captain has directed me towards the Inis Eoghain 100 route and Momore Gap. Wow! The road up to the gap resembles a track from Lord of the Rings. It’s straight, narrow and climbs at an unbelievable rate. I had to take some parts in first gear. Momore Gap is literally that, a small gap in the mountains which then leads down an equally steep road towards Malin Head.

2048.jpg


2049.jpg


Eventually I reach Malin Head.

2051.jpg


I meet my parents, brothers, wives and girlfriends at Kealys Fish Restaurant in Greencastle. We catch the final ferry across Lough Foyle to Magilligan Point and then on to Coleraine.

Sunday 31st
We stayed in Ballycastle on the Saturday night and I’d strongly recommend Wysners for dinner and Tessies(aka the Anglers Arms aka Bakewells, it has three names!) for drinks afterwards. The town is a major meeting point for bikers on a Sunday morning being surrounded by cracking roads.

2052.jpg


A final breakfast at the beach bar before I set off along the coast road past Torr Head, Cushendun, Cushendall and Larne. Then it was the long 260mile ride south towards that nights stop at Kilmore Quay (www.kilmorequay.net) just 14 miles from Rosslare ferry terminal ahead of my return on Monday.


In total from Kingston-upon-Thames, around Ireland and back was 1,850 miles. I’d stick to the same route if I was doing it again. The combination of scenery and Irish hospitality made for a very memorable trip.

Jeremy
 
what everone else said...great report....

Did you get to the Gaint's Causeway when up North?

And did a big bus with The Civil One nearly run you over while in Donegal?

:D
 
TUNED IN said:
what everone else said...great report....

Did you get to the Gaint's Causeway when up North?

And did a big bus with The Civil One nearly run you over while in Donegal?

:D

No not this time. I'm originally from Coleraine so have spent alot of time around the coast of "Norn Iron."

Drivers in the North where considerably worse than those in the South of Ireland. Sheep were the biggest hazard in Donegal. Am writing to Touratech to suggest that they add GS mounted Sidewinder/Exocet missile systems to next years catalogue. We'll need Steptoe to fiddle with the guidance systems so they can home in on caravans and buses.
 
Drivers in the North where considerably worse than those in the South of Ireland

Everthing's relative - I grew up in NI and believe UK drivers are text book perfect compared to Napolitan ones.
If TT come up with missile systems - I'll take a dozen!
 
Really enjoyed reading about your travels Jeremy ......

Try covering Wicklow if you do it again. Fantastic scenery and the hospitality is second to none... especially if you care to join the owner of Jonny Foxes P.H. (hidden in the Wicklow mountains) for a pint of Killkenny beer - strong, very strong believe me. Please dont ride home after drinking this. :)
 
Duchess said:
Really enjoyed reading about your travels Jeremy ......

Try covering Wicklow if you do it again. Fantastic scenery and the hospitality is second to none... especially if you care to join the owner of Jonny Foxes P.H. (hidden in the Wicklow mountains) for a pint of Killkenny beer - strong, very strong believe me. Please dont ride home after drinking this. :)

I certainly plan to do this ride again with some additions so I'll make a note for 06. Thx for the comments sir. If the trip report and pics motivates you and others to embark on similar trips, then my job is done. The trips to Alaska and Ireland have changed my perception of why I ride a bike.

Did I mention that the Guinness, Bushmills 16yr Single Malt and food were fairly good?

Jeremy:beerjug:
 
Jeremy said:
I certainly plan to do this ride again with some additions so I'll make a note for 06. Thx for the comments sir.
]




'Sir' ? :confused: nope definately not a 'Sir'.... but never-the-less your very welcome.sir
 
Duchess said:
Jeremy said:
I certainly plan to do this ride again with some additions so I'll make a note for 06. Thx for the comments sir.
]




'Sir' ? :confused: nope definately not a 'Sir'.... but never-the-less your very welcome.sir


Sorry about that Duchess me lady. Put it down to a combination of bike lag and an excess of Guinness.
 
Great Post

Thinking about going there next year with my son on his bike, been to the North umpteen times for the NW200 & Ulster but have never been down in the South.
Great insight to the place, thanks.

Fergus
 
Really enjoyed your report, I've just realised that you don't have to go thousands of miles away for a great trip
Bigmixer
 
Compliment...

....Outstanding collection, Jeremy. You should see the Healy Pass later this Month when 180 classic & vintage bikes blat around the hairpins; I'll be on me Norton.
PJ
 
P.J. said:
....Outstanding collection, Jeremy. You should see the Healy Pass later this Month when 180 classic & vintage bikes blat around the hairpins; I'll be on me Norton.
PJ

That's a large collection of brave men then. Pls ensure you post some photos.
 
you're back jeremy. great report and you kepted to your planned route. you must go back as you must have speeded past other great finds. i feel also you had the better adventure being on a 650.

you were very kind about irish roads though. ;)

2067.jpg


after my sub adventure i parked very close to where you were i feel.

10296706-M.jpg


the beach still haunts me.

10296707-M.jpg


such an idiot and i'm not doing that again till i've done a pavey. :tears

i envy you the sea food in ireland.... and i loved eating alone.... a bill for one and people to meet. :thumb

trust you will be doing scotland now before the season closes..... if you do let me know.
 
Joyseeker said:
trust you will be doing scotland now before the season closes..... if you do let me know.

The second City career interviews are progressing but there may be time to fit in one more small trip in September. I'll submit my proposal to Kofi at the United Nations and have him speak to the missus.

The 650 was great around the tight twisty roads. I could have done with more power on the 240mile trips from Ldn->Pembroke and Ballycastle->Rosslare and keep waiting for someone to post a picture of the supposed 1200GSAdv on the site so I can justify a deposit @ Vines. The expanding BMW panniers were fine but are as soft as tissue paper.
 
A cool report indeed - I'm looking at doing a similar trip in a few weeks - I'll pore over the maps and see if I can incorporate some of what you've done with our plans.

Many thanks for posting this - it was just what the doctor ordered!

Kind regards,
Finbarr.
 
I'm going over to Ireland on Friday 16th September, Pembroke to Rosslare. I have someone to see and stay with on the Monday so have two days to burn. Any obvious places to visit during such a short stay?
 


Back
Top Bottom