Snoopy's Morocco Adventure

BTBR said:
My point being that at least you have had a go, rather than sat on yer arse in the pub talking about it.

BTBR

... or sat in your garage fiddling with Scotckloks!

:dabone

Greg
 
Well yeah much of that is true, I made mistakes, but Greg you can prepare for everything and be prepared for nothing - life is full of risks and you either spend two years thinking about every possible thing that can go wrong, or you take the horizonunlimited approach that any bike will do, prep soundly and just do it!

As I shall write in the conclusion, many of the decisions that I took were inexperienced. My original decision to ride two days through France & Spain was for example based on Steptoe and crew doing just that.

You are being judgemental just like Stu was on that first day. Stu was and is an alright guy, but made the same mistake you have. For example...

I had planned my route before hand - the map could, and was, bought on the border. Things you don't know, I had a full puncture repair kit much better than BM's and a med-kit that included three different types of anti-biotics. In a back-pack I had all survivable equipment from rations to cable ties to a penknife so that I could leave the bike with panniers and make it out the country. I hadn't got round to checking tyre pressures before hand - that does not mean they weren't at the right pressures, or that I was not carrying a pump.

I'm not going to defend any point you posted on. I did not know Ceuta was part of Spain. True. I'm also 23 and was expecting to go via Tangier. How many 23 year olds know Ceuta is part of Spain?

Some people just aren't as experienced as you Greg. Try to live with that.
 
snoopy said:
Some people just aren't as experienced as you Greg.

I'll get there before that tosser BTBR does ....

CODE = Some people just aren't as old as you are Greg.

:rolleyes:

Greg
 
snoopy said:
Now, let's finish the story :thumb

Oh yes please - please - ??? please :thumb :popcorn

You sir, are a real :adv:

At your age my biggest adventure had been Hull to Thirsk on a Honda 50 :eek: (mind you there are some pretty odd shepherds around Thirsk :D )

Keep it up son - You obviously had a blast and have lived to tell the tale -and are obviously someone who learns from his own experience. :clap

Now get f*cking writing - or has homework interrupted? ;)
 
Greg,
you do know who Snoopy is don't you? he joined us on your Hertfordshire Green Lane Wombat Hunt and Ford Run last year. I lost count of how many times he fell off in the lanes but I do remember he crash into the back of you and managed to fall off on the road :D

Steve
 
Part 7: Fun in the sand sir?

Sand makes for one of the most interesting riding surfaces. Like ice, you have very little control if you hit it at speed (especially on a GS) but everything goes slower, so before you slide it you’ll have time to think about how much it’s going to hurt. That was my impression when I hit the drifting sands en-route from Erfoud to Merzouga. I’d set off late that morning around 11am and took the obligatory biking road known as ‘being found between the two banks on Erfoud main street’. After loosing my sunglasses the day before I picked up some Rays for a fiver and restocked with water.

The day started off on a low note. I kept my camera hanging around my neck and every so often took a snap. Just as I was doing so in Erfoud a taxi-driver style merc pulled straight across my path! I didn’t hit him but it was close. Check out the evidence later, quite a snap!

The road to Merzouga starts off very pleasant with a tarmac surface, but this runs out and one is left to follow the tracks. With a map this is problematic as there are several tracks running in the same direction and occasionally some split going where I don’t know. Once I took the wrong track and lost 1-2hrs, but overall it wasn’t bad track to ride on – the sand wasn’t deep and it wasn’t too stony.

It was hot though and my nose fried in the sun. Some irritating sod came over on a moped and offered to show the way for 250dirs however as I was only partially lost I refused. But he hanged about for 30 mins winding his price down to 80dirs before finally getting the hint and f’ing off. I’ll give him credit for doubling my speed on the sand though!

Navigation in the desert requires a GPS – maps are virtually useless and definitely so if you haven’t packed a compass. I was surrounded by sand dunes as far as the eye could see and the only thing that stopped me turning back was the occasional hut, that and 12 KTM’s flying through the sand which stopped and pointed out the correct track. An interesting note is to make a reminder of POI so that you can track back if necessary. In Morocco you always have a choice of using mobile telephone masts as POI. The desert has solar panel ones and they are easily identifiable.

My time in the Altas Mountains was at a point scary, that I concede, but I could easily foresee the Sahara desert being a life-threatening experience. If I was “desert”ing again it would be in a group with a working GPS. You could easily follow a 4x4 track and end up SOL in the Saraha and this always plays in the back of your mind.

I made Merzouga by around 3PM. The camera battery went flat and as my spare two were in the bottom of pannier I couldn’t be fanned with reviving it. Instead you’ll have to use your imagination. Large sand dunes. Drifting sands across your path.

I tried the GS on a sand dune in Merzouga and it took all the RPMs in first to get it to move perhaps 4mph. That sinking feeling coupled with mountain memories put me off. You aren’t a wimp if you pass on taking a loaded GS on sand. It’s not a fun experience. Do what 99% of others do; get a thumper … or even better, a quad!

That same day in-fact I made my way back up to Erfoud using the main road. Merzouga though impressive in scenery is only accessible with the right equipment. I booked back into the same Erfoud hotel and went for a walk around town. I’d arrived late the day before and hadn’t had the chance then.

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Part 8: Goodbye Morocco

I had another three days in Morocco but tired I decided to cut it short and spend a little more time with family before going back to work. I’d need to catch the Bilbao ferry and I had 2 days in which to do so. I left heading towards Meknes, going east to Fez and then to Quezzane. The road going up here would be familiar to those that have toured Scotland and would have been perfect on my last bike an sv650. There is nothing to report on the journey back to Ceuta – it’s a nice road but uneventful. One very unusual place is the town of Ifrane and it’s unusual because the place has obviously had a massive amount of money spent on it. All the houses are big, the grass is cut straight everywhere, and it’s all tidy, no ramshackle buildings, nice cars and straight trees (see photo). As you pass through IFrane you’ll see it’s as close to an American engineered town as you’ll get. Must be where all the rich Moroccans/ foreign investors live.

I stopped quite early in Quazzane at a motel just before the main part of town. I met three R80 GS’s who had traveled from France, a dad, his son and a mate. The dad was the fountain of all GS knowledge and in mixed languages he discussed the swing-arm fitting on the 1150 compared to the 12 and how BMW were saying it is stronger. Evidently he knew other wise. He was also pleased I’d not got servos or ABS – but the 1150 had too much electronics and he’d never have one. Looking at his R80 you could see why – those things are built! He compared his model to his sons and explained the new carbs fitted to them. Of course prior to this we had introductions and they were amazed at my age and what I’d done. The son was on his first trip and was 28 and was equally impressed. With that they refused me buying a round and at that we hit the bar. I couldn’t pay for any.

The next day I left early as usual and headed to Ceuta. Hardened, I went straight past anyone without an ID demanding I stop and parked right up at the top of the border crossing. I got the passport stamped and was through to Spanish control in about 5 minutes, at a total cost of zilch. The Spanish authorities checked my passport and I was ushered through. Cheap fuel galore, I refilled then headed for the ferry out of Morocco. From there it was straight up the E5 and back home. The Bilbao ferry back was horizontal, which was nice, but with only a ¼ of the outgoing passengers the entertainment was savaged and I ended up watching Fun with Dick and Jane on the movie-screen.

And so my journey was at an end.

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snoopy said:
Navigation in the desert requires a GPS – maps are virtually useless and definitely so if you haven’t packed a compass.
No shit sherlock.............. :rolleyes:

snoppy said:
If I was “desert”ing again it would be in a group with a working GPS.
No no no no no. You buy and have your own..................... :nono They're cheap enough nowadays.

The one thing you don't do on these type of trips, is rely on other people.

Every rider needs to be self sufficient - "carrying" people adds stress and stops enjoyment.

Unless, of course, you've wedged out on the WOBMW one.

Then Roy (aka Blue Sweeper) carries your luggage into every hotel and tucks you in at night :D


snoopy said:
Well yeah much of that is true, I made mistakes, but Greg you can prepare for everything and be prepared for nothing - life is full of risks and you either spend two years thinking about every possible thing that can go wrong, or you take the horizonunlimited approach that any bike will do, prep soundly and just do it!
Lets be brutally honest here Snoopy, you didn't prep soundly...............you just did it and got away with it - THIS TIME.

No gps and no spares. If you're mucking around in the desert, a gps is at the top of the list.

Snoopy mate, you had a cracking adventure and have my respect for having the courage to take on a trip like this on your own.

However, SO much could have gone wrong. Please don't assume that as it was okay this time, it always will be..............

:beerjug:
 
Conclusion:

About travelling with others.

Try to go with people you know and get on with - but if that's not possible think about doing it on your own. It's not easy to match other peoples timetables, their expectations and your expectations and most experienced travellers will say solo it. Saying it and doing it is a different matter, but certainly after doing it once I'd do it again.

Weight


Travel as light as you can without luxuries - or you will regret it.


Stuff I took, used, would take again

Michilen map. Or buy the official Morocco one from a service station for £1.50.
Sunglasses.
Isotex breathable garments/goretex gloves
Helendu K60 tyres. Beats any other GS enduro tyre. Crap cornering. Outstanding life.
Canon SLR digital camera. Handled the dust.
Bulb and fuses.
Medic kit with anti-biotics of many flavours.
Essential bag: Lighter,cable ties, electricians tape,string,head-torch,pens,swiss-knife

Stuff I took, used but would look for alternatives due to piss poor performance

System 5 helmet. Can’t open in dusty conditions – requires lube.
Garmin GPS mount. Turd. Thanks to garmin for repairing GPS free however.
10W40 oil. Boiled in heat. Go for 20W50 next time.

Stuff I took, didn’t use but would still take

Pro puncture repair kit
Pump

Stuff I took, used but would dump due to alternatives

Hardcore water bottle. Why? Plenty bottled water about.
Leathers and textiles. Jeans and breathable waterproofs all the way.
5litre water bottle – rubbed then leaked in panniers.
Rations of soup and noodles. Plenty of food in Morocco too!

Stuff I took, didn’t use and would dump

Spare 10w/40 oil. Plenty about.
Heavy bastard chain and lock.

Stuff I’d take next time

Small jerry can.
Suncream. Ouch.
More stuff for the kids.
DEET

Riding in Morocco

Casablanca is ‘interesting’, but the M25 in rush hour is far more dangerous then anywhere in Morocco. Police everywhere directing traffic and are brilliant. Don’t speed –– they’ll generally never pull you but Moroccans can not judge speed as well as us and will walk out without warning, as will other motorists.

Health

Get medical insurance. Try options insurance as they are very cheap. Cover from Sand Flies as you DO NOT WANT leishmaniasis. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/...ve&db=PubMed&list_uids=16460654&dopt=Abstract
I read that when I got back. Blood hell would I have done things differently knowing that.

Fleas everywhere. I got bitten multiple times and am still reacting to bites a week later. Get DEET.

The bike

Don’t be a ponce with all the touratech gear. The experts at horizonunlimited will tell you to keep it simple and low cost.
 
Here we go again....

"What?! he didn't take a GPS"

I took a GPS but the Garmin mount failed and the GPS was destroyed. I wasn't going to turn back because of it! Did you know people have managed for hundreds of years without GPS units?

"But he didn't carry spares"

Says who? You think because I couldn't get hold of one dual-filament spare bulb in the UK that I wasn't carrying spares? I had every other bulb, fuses gallore, a full tool, spare oil and puncture repair.

So no Jon, you're incorrect about the above two. And also I'd put water above GPS in the desert. But you are correct in saying so much could have gone wrong. I could have caught Malaria, been rammed by a Moroccan taxi, went over a cliff, had to walk 35km in the mountains, had one of hundreds of bike related problems, robbed, struck by lightening... :beer:
 
Jon said:
No no no no no. You buy and have your own..................... :nono They're cheap enough nowadays.

The one thing you don't do on these type of trips, is rely on other people.
:beerjug:
Jon you must of missed the bit where Snoopy tells us about his GPS mount breaking and dumping his unit on the road in Spain ;)

Huge respect to you Andy, you did what you set out to do and fulfilled your dream.

At 23 my greatest achievement was to ride the 924 miles from Shropshire to Austria in 24 hours. No I didn’t prepare for the trip, my riding gear consisted of a Combat jacket and jeans, no spares just a map.

Yes we can all see the mistakes Andy made but, he did it… he made it back in one piece and, more importantly, he learnt…. Good on you Sir :thumb

:clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap
 
I like that conclusion :thumb

From what I've been told Tiffany C was a lot less prepared for her first journey and she did OK... :D


I think Snoopy knows his failings from the trip and for a first timer i don't think he did many really bad mistakes that couldn't be recovered from...

Only he knows how bad or good his situations were... and sometimes a short write up doesn't explain all the in's and out's of the situation he was in and the choices to be made AT THE TIME.

Well done for having the Balls to try it :clap :clap
 
Greg Masters said:
I hadn't forgotten!!

:rolleyes:

Greg

Oh come-on! it was a nudge ;)

###

My thanks for all the positive comments. I hope you enjoyed reading my story and I apologise for my poor north-east comprehensive english. The journey was a huge learning curve and I'm glad I did it. I hope this aids those posing the question, "should I go to Morocco?" yes, you really really should. :thumb
 


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