"Bloody buzzin"

(RIP) Bobble · May 1, 2006

Ok, has anybody on here got any ideas on what could be the answer to this problem?

I have fitted my Garmin 2720 to my Autocom (pro 7 sport) When I run the autocom by 9Vbattery = no problem. However run it off either the horn fuse (spur) or directly from Aux power socket, the Garmin buzzes really badly. If you press the speak button it just makes a clicking noise with no speach.

Connect the Autocom back up to the 9V batt and everything works just fine.

The Garmin is powered from the bikes 12 volt battery.

I have also connected My Ipod to the Autocom and that works fine no matter how the Autocom is powered.

Have any of you come accross this problem? if so can you please help me......it's starting to cost me a fortune in 9 volt batterys

(and it's getting really annoying :spitfire

)

Wizard · May 1, 2006

Sounds like there may be a problem with the supply. Try powering the Garmin from an outside source, and the Autocom from the bike. If the problem still continues, try making a 9volt supply for the Autocom powered from the bike rather than using 12volts.

If running the Garmin and Autocom off seperate supplies works, try fitting ferrite noise supressors and/or a regulated power supply between the battery and the Autocom. and the same to the Garmin.

HTH

Muppet · May 1, 2006

You need a special part from Autocom to stop the Garmin unit interfering with the Autocom. It used to be called part 57, it's now Part 1282. Costs £24 and enables you to plug a GPS unit and mobile phone into the same accessory socket.

Any secondary unit that is bike powered where the Autocom is also bike powered will cause a buzzing (eg bike powered MP3 player or mobile phone playing MP3's).

HTH.

ebbo · May 1, 2006

This circuit will do probably what you want and save you £20 http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ron.hope/gpsint.pdf Autocom list part 57 as a twin isolated input lead, Ron’s circuit looks like it maybe what you need.

I intend (try) building one next week and possibly build in a PMR power supply in to it as well, well. Here’s hoping

P.S. a friend of mine plugged his Garmin 2610 direct to his Starcom1 and blew the GPS’s audio output because it wasn’t isolated, its back with them now for repair and he’s just bought an isolating cable from Starcom!!!

(RIP) Bobble · May 1, 2006

Thanks...

everyone

, Ebbo I think you may have knocked it on the head, it's definitely a power thing (i think

). I will let you know the outcome

Jim M · May 2, 2006

Ah ha, exactly the info I required for my own GPS/Starcom query :clap

The wiring diagram looks a bit complicated for me so I'm opting for the isolated lead from Starcom.

(RIP) Bobble · May 4, 2006

Sorted......thanks very much, it was the Autocom part 57 that fixed it..cheers again :bow

ebbo · May 5, 2006

ebbo said:
This circuit will do probably what you want and save you £20 http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ron.hope/gpsint.pdf Autocom list part 57 as a twin isolated input lead, Ron’s circuit looks like it maybe what you need.

I intend (try) building one next week and possibly build in a PMR power supply in to it as well, well. Here’s hoping

P.S. a friend of mine plugged his Garmin 2610 direct to his Starcom1 and blew the GPS’s audio output because it wasn’t isolated, its back with them now for repair and he’s just bought an isolating cable from Starcom!!!

Garmin 276c to Autocom Active-7

Well I built the circuit in Ron’s diagram in to the smallest Maplin box I could find. The components are glued in with hot glue, I’d post a picture but it looks disgusting, but it works a treat

"Bloody buzzin"

(RIP) Bobble

Toss'ed about a bit

Wizard

Registered user

Muppet

Heat Pump Guru

ebbo

Registered user

(RIP) Bobble

Toss'ed about a bit

Jim M

Guest

(RIP) Bobble

Toss'ed about a bit

ebbo

Registered user

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