Robin, of this parish, was kind enough to give me the plug from the bottom of his written off fuel controller.
With this I was able to make a work around fix, enabling me to run the bike’s fuel pump without its controller, should my controller also fail.
I discovered that my controller was sitting in a deep puddle of murky water, dead flys and what our US cousins might call rocks. I call it small stones and grit. All in all, it’s not surprising water eventually gets into the controller unit, writing it off, leaving you stuck.
The controller is easy to remove, only two brass screws to undo.
Once the controller is out, you can see the plug and socket, sitting underneath.
I made a simple flying lead, using Robin’s donor plug. I had originally planned to power the plug from the switched auxiliary socket in the beak. Like most cunning plans this fell at the first. I discovered that the fuel pump must draw more than 5 amps, as the canbus simply switched off each time.
I made a second flying lead and ran it to the battery, via my Optimate’s flying lead. This gave me a suitably fused power supply. The only downside is that, as it is not switched via the ignition, the fuel pump runs continuously. This is not a problem as it is easy enough to simply disconnect the lead from the battery, no more difficult than plugging my Optimate in and out.
Whilst digging around for some connectors I found a spare Optimate battery flying lead. I will keep this to use should a friend’s (without an Optimate lead) controller break.
Having got the fuel pump spinning, I started the bike....Bingo!.....One bike running, without a fuel pump controller, without a problem. Certainly good enough to get me home.....or further.
A big “Thank you” to Robin for donating the plug.
With this I was able to make a work around fix, enabling me to run the bike’s fuel pump without its controller, should my controller also fail.
I discovered that my controller was sitting in a deep puddle of murky water, dead flys and what our US cousins might call rocks. I call it small stones and grit. All in all, it’s not surprising water eventually gets into the controller unit, writing it off, leaving you stuck.
The controller is easy to remove, only two brass screws to undo.
Once the controller is out, you can see the plug and socket, sitting underneath.
I made a simple flying lead, using Robin’s donor plug. I had originally planned to power the plug from the switched auxiliary socket in the beak. Like most cunning plans this fell at the first. I discovered that the fuel pump must draw more than 5 amps, as the canbus simply switched off each time.
I made a second flying lead and ran it to the battery, via my Optimate’s flying lead. This gave me a suitably fused power supply. The only downside is that, as it is not switched via the ignition, the fuel pump runs continuously. This is not a problem as it is easy enough to simply disconnect the lead from the battery, no more difficult than plugging my Optimate in and out.
Whilst digging around for some connectors I found a spare Optimate battery flying lead. I will keep this to use should a friend’s (without an Optimate lead) controller break.
Having got the fuel pump spinning, I started the bike....Bingo!.....One bike running, without a fuel pump controller, without a problem. Certainly good enough to get me home.....or further.
A big “Thank you” to Robin for donating the plug.