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Thread: Adjusting paralever bearings

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Adjusting paralever bearings

    Hi all,

    My '95 1100GS has some rear wheel play; if I press the rear brake, the play is still there, so that means it's not the big bearing, and all I have to do is adjust the shaft bearings, right?

    Just want you to correct me if some of the below steps are not OK...



    • Remove rear wheel.
    • Loosen strut at rear wheel drive (1).
    • Release clamping strap (2).
    • Heat free bearing journal (3) to max. 120 °C/loosen; heat fixed bearing journal (4) to max.120 °C/loosen.
    • Clean 3 and 4 of Loctite
    • Grease the bearings
    • Screw in fixed bearing journal (3) using Loctite.
    • Apply Loctite to the entire length of the thread on free bearing pin (4), and screw it in.
    • Tighten fixed bearing of swinging arm. (3)
    • Torque Fixed bearing journal (3) to 150 Nm
    • Tighten Free bearing journal to 7 Nm (4)
    • Tighten Locknut to 105 Nm (3)

    Is this all? Am I missing something?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Wile I am in there, I should also replace the inner race roller bearing, right? bike has now 104000 km.

  3. #3
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    yes, to adjust them, just heat the inner pivot, loosen the locknut, then using the 12mm allen wrench, move it clockwise a degree at a time, do this all with the wheel still on, check play by grasping the wheel, when play gone, do up locknut, recheck the wheel for play in 500 miles, if its back, then replace bearings

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancata View Post
    all I have to do is adjust the shaft bearings, right?
    if your just adjusting the bearing there is no need to remove anything, not even the wheel - use an extension bar between the spokes.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianboydsnr View Post
    yes, to adjust them, just heat the inner pivot, loosen the locknut, then using the 12mm allen wrench, move it clockwise a degree at a time, do this all with the wheel still on, check play by grasping the wheel, when play gone, do up locknut, recheck the wheel for play in 500 miles, if its back, then replace bearings
    So no need to heat/unscrew free bearing pin (4)? Just heat the inner pivot (3), get it out, clean it and put it back in while adjusting?

    Q: when I remove the inner pivot, does it get back inside easily?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancata View Post
    Hi all,

    My '95 1100GS has some rear wheel play; if I press the rear brake, the play is still there, so that means it's not the big bearing, and all I have to do is adjust the shaft bearings, right?
    I'm no expert but if the symptoms are as described above we are talking about
    exactly the big FD bearing don't we? The worn paralever bearings should manifest as a play which will be gone when the rear brake is applied, or am I wrong?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancata View Post
    So no need to heat/unscrew free bearing pin (4)? Just heat the inner pivot (3), get it out, clean it and put it back in while adjusting?

    Q: when I remove the inner pivot, does it get back inside easily?
    no need to unscrew, clean or remove, your just tightening it slightly to remove play

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superhypo View Post
    I'm no expert but if the symptoms are as described above we are talking about
    exactly the big FD bearing don't we? The worn paralever bearings should manifest as a play which will be gone when the rear brake is applied, or am I wrong?
    Your wrong

  9. #9
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    It's the bearings i need to adjust, cause with or without the rear brake pressed, the wheel moves together with the final drive, so the big bearing inside the FD is ok, even at 100k km.

    Also, I thought I needed to heat the adjusting screw because of the loctite on it... Won't the adjusting screws threads get destroyed if screwing or unscrewing it without previous heating?

    Thanks.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancata View Post
    • Heat free bearing journal (3) to max. 120 °C/loosen; heat fixed bearing journal (4) to max.120 °C/loosen.
    • Clean 3 and 4 of Loctite
    • Grease the bearings
    • Screw in fixed bearing journal (3) using Loctite.
    • Apply Loctite to the entire length of the thread on free bearing pin (4), and screw it in.
    • Tighten fixed bearing of swinging arm. (3)
    • Torque Fixed bearing journal (3) to 150 Nm
    • Tighten Free bearing journal to 7 Nm (4)
    • Tighten Locknut to 105 Nm (3)

    Is this all? Am I missing something?
    Note the fixed bearing is (4) and free is (3). You start getting them mixed up half way through
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  11. #11
    Don't use loctite when you replace everything, it's not needed and the threads won't come undone.

    It's also makes life easier if you need to adjust the bearings whilst on a trip.

    Don't worry too much about torqueing up when you adjust, just take up the free play and tighten the lock nut hard then check again.

    If it needs adjusting again within a couple of thousand miles then the bearing will almost certainly need changing.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Timolgra View Post


    Don't worry too much about torqueing up when you adjust, just take up the free play and tighten the lock nut hard then check again.
    Because the bearing will not be worn evenly (it only rocks back and forth).

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timolgra View Post
    Don't use loctite when you replace everything, it's not needed and the threads won't come undone.

    It's also makes life easier if you need to adjust the bearings whilst on a trip.

    Don't worry too much about torqueing up when you adjust, just take up the free play and tighten the lock nut hard then check again.

    If it needs adjusting again within a couple of thousand miles then the bearing will almost certainly need changing.
    Spot on - people can get a bit anal over the paralever bearings and adjustments.
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  14. #14
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    My only fear is that i will destroy the threads while adjusting, without heating the screw, but if you say it's ok, I will go ahead.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancata View Post
    My only fear is that i will destroy the threads while adjusting, without heating the screw, but if you say it's ok, I will go ahead.

    You will need to heat the screw, if it has threadlock on

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    Quote Originally Posted by ianboydsnr View Post
    You will need to heat the screw, if it has threadlock on
    Yeah what he said – I’ve stripped the threads out of swing arm before by not using heat. Had to buy a whole new swing arm. Whilst I appreciate that it may be possible to adjust paralever pins with the rear wheel in situ, I think it would make sense to remove and heat – just in case.

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