A very European jaunt

adventuredon

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Well I am not sure if this will be a ride report, a rambling or a simple diatribe but unless I start it I won't know! I will try and keep this updated however for first 2 weeks (I won't have any ability to edit or upload/transfer pics etc). So for now....a little story

In a nutshell I am off into Europe for some 4 odd weeks. I leave on a ferry on Sat 13th and have yet to book my return ferry for the 11th August. Trip takes me down the RN, around Nice, Pisa in Italy, Lakes in Italy, Switzerland and then Lichtenstein, Brussels I think and back. All routes and rides out add up to 3300miles. So how did I get to this random route...

Plans started loosely when I was invited in March to sail with a friend in the Med this year. Easy, he lives in Nice, flights are cheap and if I need to be there for the 15th I could easily fly there cheaply (as a teacher I get the jammy holidays, starting tomorrow 12th July).

Then dropped the bombshell... - meet him in Corsica as that's where the boat will be by Monday 15th July! Flights were around £400 with all the tour de France stuff going on, so riding became a possible option. Loose plans were to sail around the east coast of Corsica, across to West coast of Italy and then back to Nice. Oh and picking SWMBO up in Pisa, Italy. And then SWMBO wanted to holiday in Corsica so we looked into accommodation and that was also either too expensive, too high up, wrong side etc. So I thought I might ride to Corsica - oh and get there by Monday 15th ! Again, tough in the time frame with meeting the ferry times to cross. So I managed to get it sorted for a Tuesday 16th 15:00 ferry and leaving the bike behind in nIce. Ferry arrives in Corsica at 21:00. This gives me time to ride down and enjoy the route Napoleon a bit more.

So I started looking at riding across as opposed to down France (I usually go to Biarritz/Spain area). As for SWMBO, we agreed that it’ll be easy for her to fly to Pisa, and we’ll collect her there and sail back to Nice. After which SWMBO and I would ride off into Italy for a break. First staying in Alassio, then moving north and staying in Lake Iseo for a week. Zoe then flies home from Milan and I get to ride back through Switzerland etc.

So I started planning. And planning. And reading. I swear there is far too much information available these days. I don't ever remember planning a trip taking so long, or was that just because basecamp is a piece of very hard to use software! Then Bruce said, Pisa is too far, just this week, can SWMBO get a train round to Nice or change her flight….Frankly we said No, we either sail to Pisa or I ride to Pisa and collect her. I finally finished the routes this morning at school. For now I’ll post this and add to the post as when I get a moment between school and leaving. So far the passes that I will cross are : Rest of routes to follow....when I get a home and can chill. Must teach now...:)
Maloja
Julien
Oberalp
Furka
Grimsel
Saanenmossereat
Col De Pillon
Col De Etroites
Le Tourne
Col De Touts
Co de Leuns
Col De Bel Homme
Col De Vence
Col de Sospel
 

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Ok, so over the last months (even before I was off sailing, I knew I'd be off riding somewhere) so being a teacher and not paid highly enough (thanks Mr Gove) I thought I'd save pounds and start to service my bike myself. So I bought tools, Haynes manual, scoured this site for gems and set to on my bike. Must say the hardest part for the 24k service was the valve clearances. Needed to replace 3 shims which once collected from BMW, are easy enough to install. Just measuring where and what was the hardest part for me, especially since the well known video/documented lesson on the net shows an older model bike! For a newbie to servicing it took me a while to realise this! I also needed a new rear disc and tryres so planning the timing and scheduling when to buy stuff and where from also took time. Again, researching tyres was painful as it's such a subjective thing. In the end I stuck with what I have had before. Another set of Conti Trail Attak's. Seeing as both previous sets delivered 12000 miles a piece, no point trying something new. I have the luxury of being close in location to Steptoe , so I had him do the service reset and other readings. I did however get BMW to do the ABS to save time and to show willing with their warranty in case these go soon. While it was there for that, BM replaced my Bowden cables and seized exhaust flap under extended warranty (I paid the labour, they paid the parts). Still better than a kick in the teeth.
SO that was the bike pretty much sorted. Having done a few rides I wanted to avoid the buffeting so set about getting a new screen. I tried a MRA Vario Tour screen and found that although it smoothed the airflow for my pillion, it actually did less for me and had lots of tugging around my elbows. So that was sold and sent. Then I lost out to a bid for a Givi airflow 330 that eventually sold for £70. Stupid me bidding too low. So with the departure date fast approaching I ordered and re installed a visor. After taking the clocks off and on so many times am now glad to say that the Givi screen is the dogs doo dats. Wow I have it on closest rake to me, and have yet to raise the top section and I can comfortably ride at 60 with visor up and less noise, buffeting and tugging on arms and around ears. Very happy with it.
Another route added and I will post on why and how later. Time for a beer and to catch up on the TDF, and light the braai!
 

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Okay, more boring gumpf but hey ho...I feel the need and besides some other newby might just avoid a sarcastic reply from the forum (1 member springs to mind in particular). Route planning is so often asked on here. It has been very hard to plan the ride you dream of - like that surfers perfect wave..is it this one, that one? Do I go over or through, around, get the train etc. Well I started with 2 maps by Via Michelin (numbers beget me as I am outside braaing right now-and typing this). Will post later. Obviuosly you have a general direction of intended travel. Then you look at the map and see nice green lines on it. So far it's going well. Then you try to enter a search term in \Basecamp and it doesn't want to know it. So you go to google, and find your location. The easiest way to put that into BC is to drop a lat/long marker and copy the co ords and then place them in a BC marker (thanks Bumpkin, invaluable tip). Then try the next and so on. I must say it is very tempting to stay in google maps, but then you drag too many points and it goes goo goo on you. Start again...From experience, google is great but I trust and find ITN converter easier and friendlier - same maps. Just add loads of waypoints else BC re routes everything again! I have spent soo much time trying to do this right and help myself. Boy is it frustrating. ITN is much easier than tyre and its is now Pay for. And so you plod on. I often found that numbering according to days and routes (e.g. 1.1 mway, 1.2 mway with twist, 1.3 Off road) was easiest (thanks Wapping for the tip). I must say I used the forum a heap and found loads of useful information once you get passed a certain level of derision and sarcasm, well I hope so! I have redone my routes so many times and then transferred them and lost them, tried to rename them and then realised they can't be changed on the PC in BC, so you have to move them to My collection on the PC and then change it, then transfer it back. Then you have routes with the same name and a number after them. Anyone know how to delete routes from Garmin easily? Man o Man this software is hard. I have persevered and can say that the way BC manages POI and routes is very clever, with a lot of options. Its just getting used to it. A steep learning curve has been mine to climb over the last month.
I have also contacted members on the forum for advice or tips following on from their tips/route replies etc and have had a good response. Thanks members. Strange how I teach kids about online safety and meeting up with online ppeps etc...Anyhow, I am scheduled to meet up with Angie and Swiss Mike in Switzerland in August for a beer or natter. Not fearful at all at my age, frankly it's a great adventure! Bet the kids think this too. Anyways..Routes - Been ard to plan as I had a definite time to be at a ferry port near Nice, so I tried to work backwards. I knew I wanted to ride Napoleon, so had to factor that in, then whether to just ride it, or dip off the main trail and find other routes / Cols close by so as not to miss the opportunities. Again, searching, then looking where the mentioned points are takes time. Then I found this cool file with all the Alpine passes and Cols in 1 POI file. Oh how much easier that made life. You can even select points and create a route from them in 1 foul curve. Nice. Thanks forum and BC (basecamp). Day 1 is a stretch of motorway and a bit of non MW. I prefer to avoid motorways. I have a hotel booked for night 1 so I can make a decent dent on the second day and then the fun starts. Day 3 is where the going is going to be fun and I shouldn't be too tired from a long stint to get there. Lets just hope I make the ferry to Corsica. Paperwork is the usual - passport, warranty and insurance details and copies. Ferry ticket and a typed up itinerary of where I should be, what route when etc with emergency numbers and contacts. I got a used Vignette off this forum just in case I went into Switzerland (which I know know I am) so that helped out. It has been hard trying to remember where I'll be and what sort of routes are preferred for me and then to change tack and distance for when SWMBO joins me in Nice or Pisa ( There is a chance we may not sail across to Pisa and I'll have to ride around the coast to collect Zoe). Hard life!.. Well actually, look for any route around the med tha does not have a motorway and it either means chancing traffic and the heat on the coastal road, or going north, East, South, North, East etc to zigzag across. Unless you want to really go inland and around. Anyhow...enough trickling for now...time to research a return ferry ticket!. PS, the routes may not be perfect, but by heck they are mine and finished ish..
 
"Then I found this cool file with all the Alpine passes and Cols in 1 POI file. Oh how much easier that made life. You can even select points and create a route from them in 1 foul curve. Nice. Thanks forum and BC (basecamp)"

- Any chance you can post up this file?
 
Bitch, shit, crap. Just typed a long one while on this sailing boat and posted it, or rather thought I did! Bugger, it had all good stuff covering the last 3 day ride down to Nice. I ll type it up again when on a proper pv and not a iPad. Also stil not able to upload all pics as no connection on My tablet. Anyway, all goes well and the roads were superb, bar the first day motorway hell. Saw some new places, some of them I saw twice without intending to see them once! Work needed on how to plan routes properly! Anyhow, the Tarmac in France is great, the route Napoleon was awesome, especially the start towards valbonnais. I also liked the off shoots that I took on day 3 around to castillane and the gorge du cans and gorge dualism. Bloody fantastic. Mill have to look over my maps and get a rating out there when back. Now sailing in the med along Corsican coast. Hot. Hope bike secure as it has been left chained with 2different locks to a lamppost in a small parking spot at the marina. Better not fine me either! The panniers sre locked and a disc lock on too so not much else I can do. Gonna post this in case it too gets lost!
 
On sat night I met the owner of the Gite I stayed in, and as promised on this site, he speaks no English. None. Nada. I mentioned food and fireworks in the adjacent village and they were like ooh, not on the bike and drinking etc. obviously not, but I thought they then agreed to give me a lift as they were going anyway. Turns out my French is indeed poor and they meant, we ll drop you off and organize a taxi from the restaurant for you. They duly did. The fireworks were mediocre, the villages didn't really get fired up about Bastille day and jthey went home at 11:20. My taxi was booked for 12:00, so I hung about like Nigel no mates till it arrived. The accommodation was fantastic and a large room, quiet and brekkie. Secure lock up, not that it's needed as the village is so small! Gite chez Jo I think. Bike running fine and must say after yesterday's great jaunt from phone to vergas, castillane and grasse my tyres do not have a flat spot yet! Never thought I would but I really like the tight hairpins on the left. Not so much the phones turning right. Feels a bit like carving on skis when you get it right. I odd notice that at speed, well me at speed, I tend to end up leaning forward and almost over and willing the bike to follow my leading shoulder into the corner, in an attacking sort of pose. Not sure if this is meant to be or if it is just my subconscious moving my body into what position I think is best at the time! Loving it never the less.
 
My first col was col de noyer and it was an easy intro to tight turns, narrower roads. Then I hit col du manse I think on the way to vars. boy did I love the vars col, really leaning in and hitting the gas on exit. I did hit a foot peg twice but both on the descent and the left, so I don't think that counts! Then 2guys came hounding past me on the way up and after 3 turns they were gone. I did out run a Honda and a Harley but they were having a coffee at the time. Rode up bonnet the and loved the scenery. Still snow and cyclists going up but no cloud, good visibility and no rain. Wow what a ride then when you hit the route de nice on the other side. Anyhow, sorry that I have no pics to link to yet but soon as I get a wi if on my tablet and not a friends iPad I'll upload some. Still do not know the result of the 1st ashes test. Anyone please..? This Internet dodgy. Post more later
 
Ok so sailing along the west coast of Corsica was quitecool, except we motored morethan ee sailed due to lackof consistent wind. Nice for tanning and relaxing but it feels like cheating. The scenery is awesome and when we did enter Calvi to take on zupplies I managed toget a snapshot of the start of the tourxe france wall. Still not posting pics!. Anyhow, saw whales, dolphins right in front of us, a flying fish and some very expensive luxury cruisers. The best beach though was Seleccia, http://www.villasperone.com/EN/where-are-the-best-beaches-in-corsica.html where we moored and then took the dinghyashore. We intended to go to a secluded and not easily reachex beach bar behind the dunes, then braai and sleep on the beach before sailing back to Nice on Friday morning. Thisbeach is so awesome, its still unspolied and kids all over just leave their toys and buckets etc in a pile on the beach for the nextday. It is sosecluded that their is only a small camping sitebehind the dunes and safe that they can do this. Anyhow, we made a great big fire after a few beers and set about cooking and relaxing. Funny how youalways imagine sleeping aon a tranquil beach as ideal....bloody nora it is noisy with even just a small shore break continually pounding, plus add in the mosquitoes and that sand getx hard after being compressed by ones body weight. Anyhow, we were up and off on the 24 hoursail back to Nice at 06:30 amidst giant thunderstorms. The return trip was uneventful, except to day thati have now sailed across the med. Long and tedious...to be honest I was quite looking forwarx to being back on my bike and in control with the choice of a different drink, or using a proper toilet etc. Sunday morning set off for Pisa after reloading and re organising the bike. Glad to xayit had not been touched or moved and no parking ticket either. I rode the coastal rode a while then headex up through Monte Carlo to the Moyen Corniche and travelled that with great views. It has been seriuosly hot and stopping is just too hot! You almost want to keep riding til you find a shady corner with a view for that photo. Just beyond Menton there is a sign warning that you are 1000m from Italy next to a petrol station selling cheap cigarretes and petrol. Should have filled up there as petrol is now 1.72 litre in Italy. In fran e it was around the 1.60 or less per litre. The only way you know you are in Italy is when you notice tozsers overtaking you on doubls white lines, on a blind orner after tailgaitng you for a while. They reallyare a law unto themselves. After some stunning scenery and just after Alassio I jumped on the motorway tocatch up some time and to keep movingas it was just too hot to stop start and crWl through the villages and traffic etc. Another lovely piece of road around the coast with good views was the A10 toll road. Cost me about 15 euros in total to get from Alassio to Pisa. More later as have to attend dinner now!
 
some pics to start

Ok havenow beenable to put some pics on flicker and will share them here.
Georgesgite onnight one with private parking undercover, he insisted!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9383176936/" title="P7136120_resized.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2827/9383176936_5d90da83b5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7136120_resized.JPG"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9330349674/" title="P7146130 by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3738/9330349674_e19c82eaf5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7146130"></a>
 
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9385249064/" title="P7156155_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/9385249064_cf5c3af036.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7156155_resized_1.JPG"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9385243422/" title="P7156153_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2829/9385243422_1cc59589b6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7156153_resized_1.JPG"></a>
Okay so I did say camp on night 2 was very picturesque. 7 euros and 1 euro for a shower. Just at the start of RN, in a small hamlet called Valbonnais.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9385243202/" title="P7146152_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5535/9385243202_5b5390b28a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7146152_resized_1.JPG"></a>
In the morning before all the kids woke up I liked the look of the mountains.


As you probably read I had to, just because I own a Gs and can, take the challenge! Look at why the road had been closed or route altered.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9385249974/" title="P7156158_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2815/9385249974_bb4d6e39c4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7156158_resized_1.JPG"></a>

Heres why
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9382467723/" title="P7156159_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2813/9382467723_a204cd4a85.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7156159_resized_1.JPG"></a>
 
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9380613837/" title="P7156163_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2882/9380613837_9f0300e31b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7156163_resized_1.JPG"></a>
The sign
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9383396384/" title="P7156162_resized.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5450/9383396384_5714013f36.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7156162_resized.JPG"></a>
 
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9385243202/" title="P7146152_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5535/9385243202_5b5390b28a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7146152_resized_1.JPG"></a>Day 2 campsite and some roads I used. All lovely and empty and friendly bikers, except them harley kn.bs! They are soooo poncy and never wave. Well not to me at least!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9380586429/" title="P7156211_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5475/9380586429_f2b2fbf385.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7156211_resized_1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9383369624/" title="P7156214_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2810/9383369624_7b6796fcd7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7156214_resized_1.JPG"></a>
Dinner on the go, bolognaise sauce, chilli and gnocchi. Camped at Peone as could not find the campsite in Beuil, just near Valberg. Small and works on a honesty box system. 5 euros for secure parking and running water etc
 
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9380532949/" title="P7166228_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5341/9380532949_eed05308b9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7166228_resized_1.JPG"></a>Pictures on way to and then going up and over bonnette
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9380533423/" title="P7166230_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3710/9380533423_f4c4e407ce.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7166230_resized_1.JPG"></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9380532949/" title="P7166228_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5341/9380532949_eed05308b9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7166228_resized_1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9380532525/" title="P7166226_resized.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5502/9380532525_9efdb11c59.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7166226_resized.JPG"></a>

On the ride u bonnette
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9383168844/" title="P7156190_resized.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3709/9383168844_47beb33cb8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7156190_resized.JPG"></a>
 
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9386610090/" title="P1016184_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5325/9386610090_b679b51d5c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P1016184_resized_1.JPG"></a>The vars tourist office looks very different out of skiing season
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9383438184/" title="P1016180_resized.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2814/9383438184_6a8bb78f4d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P1016180_resized.JPG"></a>

Top of bonnette
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/98888959@N08/9383833685/" title="P7156192_resized_1.JPG by adventuredon, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3750/9383833685_ca14be7a34.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P7156192_resized_1.JPG"></a>
 


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