Roadside Problem

st1cks

st1cks

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Engine just cut out NE Scotland on a run.
Checked all connectors, have good spark, changed plugs, fuel flowing from tank.
What is the best way to check for fuel at the injectors and or electrical fault on fuel supply. Slight odd burble while cranking but not picking up to run. Any help appreciated!


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If it just cut out then I'd his it had to be fuel or ignition. I'd go for ignition first... how about you check the infamous cable from the ignition switch ignition into the loom. The suddenness of the failure is a little like I had when that cable gave up. If you switch on the ignition and sway the handle bars left to tight you may hear the fuel pump cutting in and out...
 
You don;t say what bike but since you are in oil heads .....

Are you hearing the pump whine? If not check the tank connector block the green wire and the brown are the two important ones for the pump to operate

Easiest way is to unscrew the two little torx down by the injector AND carefully take the plastic pipe off the injector the carefully wiggle the injector out of the port and clip it back on the pipe (make sure and fit the clip again!!) spin the motor over and you should have a nice pulsing spray

If you have a pissy stream or nothing? Its possible that the pipe has blown off in the tank I have had about 4 of these this last 2 years from badly crimped clips

N.B.

All the rubber rings on the quick connectors should be greased with rubber or silicone grease everytime you split them to make sure they connect correctly

If you don;t have those?? The least detrimental seems to be a few drops of simple vegatable or olive oil I have used a smear of vaseline but some rubber doesn;t like it

If you remove the fuel pump flange be aware that there are two small pipes that connect the filler drain and the tank breather through the flange to get it out the clips need to be spread and them slipped off

If it is a hose off where its meant to be? You can simply reconnect and recrimp the hose with a pair of nippers but be aware sometimes the rubber tank seal will swell You can cut a little section out and glue it with superglue (and put that to the top) to get you home You want it to end up very slightly larger than the groove in the tank

Also Before you attempt to remove the fuel pump flange Mark where the cut out is It makes it easier than wondering afterwards

And finally the nuts on the fuel pump flange wire brush them well and give them a good coat with 3 in one BEFORE You start trying to unscrew They can snap off otherwise
 
Thanks for reply, the fuel pump is coming on each time I switch on, handlebar movement doesn't effect it. I've had a good grab and shake all round the loom and checked the connectors. Is there a voltage check I can do at the injectors or easy dismantle to check fuel flow?


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If a pipe falls off inside the tank the pump will whirr and all that will happen is the fuel will circulate inside the tank

There is a clip and two small torx or allen keys on the throttle bodies

Undo the wiring connector and remove the clip and undo the two allen or torx screws

CAREFULLY wiggle the fuel pipe feed as You can break it if you are cack handed and its a cnut to replace the whole fuel pipe!

if you are lucky the injector will pop out, if not split the pipe from the injector and them remove the injector and refit it to the pipe along with the clip and the wiring connector N.B. a slap of veggie oil may assist in lubrication on the dismantling and reassembly

Simply turn the engine over on the button you should have a pulsing spray with the engine turning

If you don't get a pulsing spray it could be a connector but you need to see if the pump is making pressure ......

Have you quick connectors or old fashioned rubber to plastic pipe

DID I mention to Go easy with the Plastic fuel feed to the injector???
 
Sorry for lack of detail, yes 2000 1150GS. Fuel pump whines no problem. There is fuel coming out of both pipes from the tank when I disconnect them. I could pull injectors although have nothing to hand to reassemble them as described. Anyone know of an electrical check for the injectors to eliminate that?


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st1cks said:
Sorry for lack of detail, yes 2000 1150GS. Fuel pump whines no problem. There is fuel coming out of both pipes from the tank when I disconnect them. I could pull injectors although have nothing to hand to reassemble them as described. Anyone know of an electrical check for the injectors to eliminate that?


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Power at the injectors (green/white) is only their for the same amount as time as the fuel pump primes (couple of seconds), they share the same power line. Power comes back on again during engine rotation.
 
Ok so if the pump is whining , safe to think there is no electrical power supply issue.


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st1cks said:
Ok so if the pump is whining , safe to think there is no electrical power supply issue.


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Just before she shut down, did you see anything like bouncy tacho or surging?

These symptoms could point to a Hall sensor failure.
 
The injectors have quick connectors and torch screws I have had undone but didn't want to force anything, will try again.


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Allen screws not torch on plastic injectors.


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Ok zero fuel from RH injector on cranking - next step ?


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Correction pulsing fuel, when power supply connected!


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st1cks said:
Slight odd burble while cranking but not picking up to run. Any help appreciated!


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Sounds like your hall sensor has failed...... put the bike in gear, turn on the ignition, rotate the rear wheel by hand, you should hear the fuel pump cut in and out as the hall sensor is triggered.

If it doesn't then it's your hall sensor.

But here's the thing, even if it does trigger, it could still be your hall sensor...... yes confusing i know..
 
Turned rear wheel a few times in gear, no sound from the fuel pump. If it's the hall sensor were do I go from here (sensible answers only please)!


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Thanks Steptoe haven't dealt with a hall sensor before. Is it something that can be bypassed or am I Stuck until I find a replacement? Easily fitted?


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st1cks said:
Turned rear wheel a few times in gear, no sound from the fuel pump. If it's the hall sensor were do I go from here (sensible answers only please)!


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No bypass, it's a show stopper - Replacment only.
The unit is located under the alternator pulley, plugs in at the bank of plugs under the front of the fuel tank alongside the handlebar plugs etc..

It can fire up when it's all cooled down, but will stop again within a couple of minutes..
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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