Stripped allen key headed bolt - how to remove ?

Gecko

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It had to happen I guess.... I managed to srtip the allen key head on my final drive filling bolt/nut thingie . Not a huge problem but I'd like to get it sorted . It's rounded off so whats the best way to get it out now ? I was thinking of trying an oversized torx bit tapped in to the now rounded allen key insert but are there any better ways ?
 
It had to happen I guess.... I managed to srtip the allen key head on my final drive filling bolt/nut thingie . Not a huge problem but I'd like to get it sorted . It's rounded off so whats the best way to get it out now ? I was thinking of trying an oversized torx bit tapped in to the now rounded allen key insert but are there any better ways ?


Is it recessed? If not, try filing a couple of flats and using a spanner. Otherwise, the torx bit is the way to go.
 
torx bit should work...but if it doesn't the approved way is to use a small chisel/screwdriver/blade thingy on the outer edge - max torque applied on the outer edge.

be prepared to use a new one if it gets ruined tho...
 
if it sticks out weld onto it and turn that if it's flush try a flat headed srew driver with liquid metal on the end bit slow but works alright.

you may also want to heat the area to make the thread area expand thus making the bolt easier to remove.

or hit with hammer swearing wildly... in blind rage
 
Stripped bolt.

As the bolt is scrap use a small pair of steelsons, these are avialable in approx 6" size and will grip any thing. This barbaric toll will get you out of many "impossible" tasks and will be a good investment. take no notice of the
"arm chair experts " who will scream protest just get a pair (and a new plug)
and your problems will be over.
dave ( steelson) GS.
 
Steve- yeah it's recessed and sitting quite flush to the final drive casing so I can't even get a mole grip onto it.

So ....torx it will be I reckon. Only problem is getting to a BMW shop to blag a new one before I destroy the old one.

I may wait till I'm back from me trip away before risking f*cking it up totally and wishing I'd never started :eek:
 
I was thinking of trying an oversized torx bit tapped in to the now rounded allen key insert but are there any better ways ?

There is no better way

So ....torx it will be I reckon. Only problem is getting to a BMW shop to blag a new one before I destroy the old one.

Why bother with a new one - just use the old one thats now been converted to torx
 

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Steptoe probably has the best idea, but if for some reason that doesn't work, just use an easy-out. They're cheap, almost always work and I've used 'em a lot over the years.......hhmmm that may be as admission to hamfistedness :)
 
Steptoe probably has the best idea, but if for some reason that doesn't work, just use an easy-out. They're cheap, almost always work and I've used 'em a lot over the years.......hhmmm that may be as admission to hamfistedness :)
:yikes
well all I can add is my personal opinion, but I would say never, never use an easy out. total Basta*d things. Whenever I've tried, I've ended up with a sheared off bit of hardened steel easy out stuck inside the bolt. far better to drill the bolt out.
 
Another thing which may help is something I was advised to do when I did the same thing to a nut attaching a brake disc to my old Hornet. As well as the heating, I pulled some fine threads from a copper/brass bristled brush or some very fine wire and put this into the rounded off allen head. When the torx head is banged in, it can give it someting to grip.

Also use an impact driver. I'd also soak it in WD40 or similar, to get into the threads which will make it easier to get out.

Quite a recipe, but it should work.
 
Jimbo, Did you drill the bolt before using the easy out or just try and use it in the stripped hole as is? I admit that "easy" doesn't always apply, but I've never had one break.
 
Stripped bolt

As its flush steelsons no good, what ever you try heat it up witha hot air gun first, the ally ncase will expand more than the plug and it must help.
In future just belive it's sealed for life and save any future agro!.
dave gs.
 
As its flush steelsons no good, what ever you try heat it up witha hot air gun first, the ally ncase will expand more than the plug and it must help.
In future just belive it's sealed for life and save any future agro!.
dave gs.

....yeah but I was fixing it till it broke..... :p and I wanted to change the final drive oil coz leaving that in there forever might not be a good thing - nor would drilling it out methinks :eek: I like Steve's idea of tipping the bike upside down and filling it through the drain plug - a very novel approach that is :thumb
 
.... I like Steve's idea of tipping the bike upside down and filling it through the drain plug - a very novel approach that is :thumb

or unscrew the breather and fill it through there:blast
 
if a torx won't shift it (it will), drill it out with a left hand drill bit, and it will just unscrew easy peasy :)

ps. no need to feck about with hair dryers to heat the casing, just ride it ;)

pps. easy-out? never was a tool so badly named :p
 
I would go TORX first...almost always works...
spiral easy-outs are crap for rounded out hex bolts because they taper too much - they want a long drilled hole.
For what it is worth, there is another type of extractor sold here in the colonies by Snap-On but probably made by someone else (as it is sold under the Blue Point name, which is the brand that Snap-On uses for things it doesn't make>)
They are longish hardened splined shafts with hex-nuts that ride over the shafts to turn them.
You find the right sized one in the kit, tap it into the hole (or, in this case, the hex ) and turn it with the over-fitting nut.

They are REALLY good devices... work almost as well as a hardened torx bit tapped in to the hex:)

Mark
 


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