Cosgaya to Santander
I had a good walk late on last night to help digest my modest dinner. Slept very well… like I'd done 12 rounds with Audley Harrison.
Got up to a lovely view from the room.
I skip breakfast as I still feel about last night and pack up. It is sad to leave the Hotel del Oso after such a brief stop. One of the nicest places I think I've ever stayed at; not flashy but classy and really first rate service. Definitely a place I'd want to come back to for longer.
It's a lovely morning to ride. Glorious sunshine; a little chill in the air and some mellow tunes played along. I don't take the fastest route; it's only 80 or so miles to do so its an opportunity to retrace some steps on a lovely little east-west series of mountain roads I took back earlier in the ramble.
Go careful now.. for here there be wiggly bits..
It is totally deserted here. I'm minded of riding in England's lake district in the summer now... albeit but with zero traffic. Beautiful.
A moment to talk about the bike: Touch wood, it's riding absolutely wonderfully; to me, as crisp as a brand new machine. As many GS folk know well it's all very well at home in the twisty mountain roads, riding on that lovely torque and going very nicely.
Passing the passes..
Oh and the views!
Failed arty photo attempt..
A little town. I stop at a Supermarket. It must be the world's smallest supermarket. So small that I can barely move down the aisles. There are a few people shopping and moving around is like a puzzle. Worthy of something the Japanese would create and be proud of. Still, there's Asturian Cider to be purchased.. Oh, and why not a bottle of Rioja.. and a small matter of six cans of Damm Double Malta beer.
They're no longer panniers.. They're Oddbins
A couple of locals say hello and approve of the bike. Cool. At which point I break my sunglasses. Not cool. We have a laugh. I suppose if I'm going to break them, this will be the time to do it. Tank bag contains pair of reserve sun specs. That's pair 2 of 3, from the inventory of a clumsy git.
Back to the road. Lovely going. So yes. Those of you who've 'done' Spain will be aware of the significance of Santander. Alas to the port, and out to sea, bound for dear old blighty..
Boo. It's been great, but it is time to head back for a bit. Sigh.
Finding the ferry in Santander is very, very easy. And boarding is really simple. From stopping at check in to getting on to the boat was probably just over fifteen minutes and minimal fuss.
Here we are..
And on we go..
There are a dozen or so bikes making the crossing. Four GS's, one of those K1300S starships in a discreet orange colour, two Pan Europeans, a Triumph that looks like its being held together with sticky tape, and a few cruisers containing patch clad leather peeps.
Getting sorted on the ferry is smooth bar some tool on a Massey Ferguson-Davidson
.. Who decides to give it the beans and rev it inside the boat. It's already super loud without being stuck inside a big metal box, so now it's extra fecking noisy and a bloody nuisance. One of the deck hands looks ready to get very upset, but at this point we're ushered down a ramp to where the bikes will reside overnight.
The ferry, the Brittany
Cap Finistere is OK, nothing particularly special. It was formerly a Superfast line ship that bobbed about out in the Adriatic. There are still giveaway stickers in greek in the cabin bathroom and a lot of the signs on the boat have the old square squiggle triangle. One thing it is… is expensive. If you want to eat and drink well bring your own, or make sure you're holding a few bob, or you'll be disappointed.
The 'duty free' kind of vexes me. I have the fancies for a nice wee scotch to take home, but a bottle of Old Poultney is thirty quid? Everything seems very pricey so I find it a little bit strange. In fact I think most stuff was cheaper in that little village microsupermarket in Spain earlier, but when I walk around its full of people grabbing stuff, so it can't be that bad now can it.
I get settled in the cabin and move to the bar to have a look at the pictures from the morning. It's about an hour from the off, and the bar is quite busy, aside two window groups of seats adjacent to a group of four sat centrally. Strange they should be free, but convenient, so I take one of the seats and break out the laptop. All very good. Of course, I soon discover why the seats are free; the one guy in the group is one of four is one of the loudest, and most boring people there must be on the planet. His line of patter is like
Vogon Poetry. Alright, hands up, I mean, I'm no Peter Ustinov, and people in glass houses and all that, but this guy is incredible. I clock the face of one of the people with him. He looks white with terror. I actually don't even think the two couples are together.. The recipients of this dull diatribe look paralysed and unable to move. Awwww… they're being suffocated by good old british good manners. How good it is to be back amongst my fellow countryfolk.
I decide this calls for a drink. I have a pint of French lageur, and a thimble full of cashew nuts. I spent less on a night out in Portugal when I was laying off the ale!
I can finally take no more of the adjacent noise. A stroll out to the deck is taken to watch Santander disappear in the afternoon sun. Spain really does have everything for someone on a bike.. Especially a GS too. I really can't wait to go back again I'm thinking as we head out.
Nice views of Santander and the coast as we bob out..
Seeya later Spain
We're buzzed by a light aircraft. I jostle with my phone to try and get a picture before I realise my actual camera is around my neck. Oops.
The executive decision is taken to bypass dinner. I don't feel worthy of it given the sins of last night. Let's have a snooze in the cabin.
Other than that its a couple of pints late on and a chat with a few peeps about this and that in the bar. All very pleasant. Biscay seems pretty serene tonight, which is a shame for me as I was looking forward to a bit of rock and roll as I always get a good night of zeds after that...