What engine oil?

Bertie

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I saw in BIKE or MCN recently that an oil manufacturer had recently launched an oil specifically for modern Beemers. Due to advancing senility brought on by the amount of aluminium in the Jap bikes I used to ride, I can't remember the manufacturer now, and have already given the mag away. I have a vague idea it might have been Motul, but not sure.:blast

Anyone know what the hell I'm going on about, or have any views on the oil I should use on my 9500 mile, 2 year old 1200 GS?:confused:

Nurse - can I have the commode again please.......:monkeypiz
 
Goody! Another oil thread - I'll start :-)

Any 10W40 that meets the minimum specification in the handbook for typical UK temperatures. Any 20W50 or 15W50 that meets the handbook specification if you use the bike a lot in hotter climates.

Someone will come along at contradict me now. :-) :-) :-)

If you search the site for 'oil' you will find a million and one different views - BUT if you follow the bike's handbook then you won't go far wrong.
 
The boxer is built like a tank so you can use chip fat :thumb2
Taaaarka, where you? We need your advice :bounce1
 
I would use a 20w-50 even in this country. We tend to get more and more hotter summers but the winters never go below -10 degrees.

The oil you were talking about is motorex "Legend" http://www.motorex.co.uk/ but it's expensive and a synthetic

temp ranges
10w-40 = -20 to +20 degrees
20w-50 = -10 to +40 degrees

the 20w-50 will also keep the engine quieter

Just get some castrol GP 20w-50 or duckhams Q or similar
 
Atkule said:
The boxer is built like a tank so you can use chip fat :thumb2
Taaaarka, where you? We need your advice :bounce1
Click to expand...

I dont think Tarka cares to sully himself with 1200s,so i'll have a go....
RTFM,and if the oil meets those standards,no problem.:thumb2
I did say RTFM didnt i?.:D
 
terayon said:
I would use a 20w-50 even in this country. We tend to get more and more hotter summers but the winters never go below -10 degrees.

the 20w-50 will also keep the engine quieter

Just get some castrol GP 20w-50 or duckhams Q or similar
Click to expand...

agree with the Above apart from DUCKHAMS :eek:
It's SHITE
I did my thesis on oils, and Duckhams was the worst of the lot, also caused a lot of CVH Ford engines to die of Black Death :( when it was marketed as FoMoCo oil
Now CASTROL :thumb2 :thumb2 :thumb2
GP20/50 or Heritage 20/50 is perfect :)

The rig we used for oil testing>>
 

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Isn't the critical thing the API rating, ie. "SF" or better - so any 10W50 or 20W50 with SF or SG (is there an SH now also) rating is OK.
What I'm not sure about is:- mineral or semi-synth or full synth??
Dis-regarding the truely horrendous price of full synth, which type is best for the bike?
The book says don't use full synth for the first 6000m, so after that, is full synth better than semi-synth ? and is straight mineral better than semi ?
Or what?

Phil
 
Proff said:
the manual has been updated and the Castrol site will be soon:) to reverse the recommendations to >>20/50 as first choice
http://www.ew2.lubesinfo.com/frameset.asp?sid=156&bid=63&sc=1156&langid=1

BTW 1150 and 1200 same oil:thumb2
Click to expand...

Thanks Proff :spitfire Gonna have to change the feckin oil now because of you!!!

I struggled to get any 15/50 or 20/50 around here so ended up with the green shite. Bought 2 cause I had to travel a bit to get it.

Know it all horse "riding" son of a billy goats single teat ****Don't drink the milk :eek *****
 
PhilBolton said:
Isn't the critical thing the API rating, ie. "SF" or better - so any 10W50 or 20W50 with SF or SG (is there an SH now also) rating is OK.
What I'm not sure about is:- mineral or semi-synth or full synth??
Dis-regarding the truely horrendous price of full synth, which type is best for the bike?
The book says don't use full synth for the first 6000m, so after that, is full synth better than semi-synth ? and is straight mineral better than semi ?
Or what?

Phil
Click to expand...

Thing is I don't think the API rating is the critical thing. Different in a jap bike where you have a wet clutch and you don't want the additives causing havoc causing your clutch to slip. But as GS's don't have wet clutches can't see an issue with API. All modern oils are based on the now obsolete SF rated oil with additives, Current rating API is SJ, SL and SM
 
terayon said:
http://new.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/EngineOilGuide2006.pdf

Thats an explaination from API themselves.

"For automotive gasoline engines, the latest engine oil service category includes the performance properties of each
earlier category. If an automotive owner’s manual calls for an API SJ or SL oil, an API SM oil will provide full protection."
Click to expand...
I wonder if that supercedes this:- http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/reviews/sj_oil/index.html -i know it's old, but that's what i'm going by.
 
gavin@iow said:
I wonder if that supercedes this:- http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/reviews/sj_oil/index.html -i know it's old, but that's what i'm going by.
Click to expand...

Ok, done a little digging.

As you all know, the boxer engines use oil alot until they've done about 30,000 miles. The reason BMW state SF, SG or SH API rated oil, is the newer SJ-SM have wear additives. This would cause problems like more oil being used as the rings would not bed in properly, causing more oil to be used for a longer term.

So I take that back on the API rating:D
 
So, does the latest Rider's Manual still suggest SF, SG and SH as the oil grade to be used?, and no mention of grades SJ and higher.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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