Another Morocco report!

peejay

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After months of planning and preparation, The three of us met up at Bridgwater Services (M5) on a wet Sunday in April and rode uneventfully to get the Ferry at Plymouth.
We arrived in a not so sunny Spain the next day and strted heading south (wherelse!). The aim was to get to Toledo by that evening, avoiding Madrid.
So we went via Villadolid and Avila.
The N403 Avila to Toledo is a great road, with stunning views. It was dark by the time we got to Toledo, so we started in earnest trying to find a hotel. Kev put the Zumo to work and soon we were going round in circles chasing imaginary hotels!! Then more by luck than judgement we found Hotel Almazara and rode up the tree lined driveway and into the court yard. Booked in and cold beers alround. The resturant was closed, so being as we had eaten earlier, we resigned ourselves into looking forward to breakfast. That was until some Spanish guys who were also staying, wandered over and presented us with 2 huge pizzas which were going spare.:thumb
The next morning, in daylight we took in our surroundings properly:
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After breakfast we left and headed for Algeciras.
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By evening we decided that we would get the Ferry to Cueta the next morning, and booked in at the San Roque Hotel. Luxury at a reasonable cost and being the only guests we were looked after admirably.
Next Morning we headed off to the Ferry, got half a mile from the hotel when Daves bike died. It eventually started and coughed and spluttered to the Port.
Decision time, do we cross and hope for the best, or do we get the bike looked at? Dave started her up and revved it a few times and all seemed ok, so decision made, lets get the tickets.
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We arrived in Cueta and headed for the border, weaving our way through the throngs of people at the border the Spanish border controls just waved us through. Then we were approached by 2 guys in jeballahs with 'tourisme guide' badges on, they got us through the process painfree, so giving them a few euros we were into Morocco in about 45mins.
No banks at the border so we headed for Tetouan. Well the first few miles were an education, and when we got to Tetouan we all looked at each other and the underlying feeling was do we carry on or do we get back to Spain and spend the next 10days on the beach!!
Nah, stuff it, we've got this far, it'll get better.
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Money in our pockets we rode on. Once out of Tetouan, the skys cleared and so did the smog, and we headed for Chefchouan. Great roads and scenery, but keeping an eye out for the slightly erratic local drivers!!!!

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Travelled through Chefchouan observing all the speed limits, as there were a lot of Police speed checks along the way. We decided to head for Ouerzzane and look for a hotel. On the out skirts we saw signs for 'Motel Rif' and Kev headed for that. Found it on the Mekenes road about 2 miles out of town. Cost us 210 dirhams for a room with en-suite. Job done. Managed to get a bottle of wine from the owner but we had to drink it in our rooms.

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The next morning it was pouring, so we loaded up and got going early. Once out of the Rif the rain stopped and we had dry roads as we headed for Mekenes.

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As we rode on we noticed that there were National flags flying everywhere, did they know we were coming or what!? Through Mekenes, El Hajib and on towards Azrou, flags flying on every house and building, then there were Police and Soldiers lining the road for miles, in Azrou the streets were lined with people and barriers keeping them back, they were waving flags and cheering as we rode on. In Midelt the same again, only small bands struck up as we aproached, Police and Army everywhere, lining the road every few yards and we got the feeling that if we stopped we would be swamped. No traffic on the road, then we were being saluted by Police and Army alike, then we saw posters of the King in the villages, we were caught up in a Royal visit so, not being one to hug the limelight we pushed on on a completely clear road.
We stopped for lunch at Auberge 'Col du Luz'

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After a lunch of chicken tangine, we carried on into the Moyen Atlas. Heading for Ar-Rachidia and a welcome stop.

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Stopping for another photo opportunity of the Lake Ziz, I heard a crashing sound and looked round to see Dave and his 1200 on its side, having rolled off the side stand. Helping him to right the bike it was soon apparent that he had 'put his back out' trying to hold the bike up before it hit the deck.

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So we pushed on the remaining few miles to Ar-Rachidia. We found Hotel 'Le Riad' on the outskirts and Dave negotiated a price of 600 dirhams b&b, bit pricey but Dave was in agony so we parked the bikes, and slummed it.:augie

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Oh, well if you insist:-

Don't know if it was Daves pain killers or the ice cold beer at the Hotel, but by morning Dave felt fine, so after stuffing ourselves silly on breakfast and drinking hot strong coffee, we departed Ar-Rachidia and headed to Erfoud and Merzouga. It was as you would expect HOT so we stopped for a drink and me a fag, (I know, I know!)

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On the road again we went through Erfoud and on towards Merzouga, knowing we would have to ride back to Erfoud and pick up the road across towards the Todra gorge.
We got to Merzouga at about midday, took a few photos of Erg Chebbi, did a bit of unsuccessful bartering with the locals, then went for play in the desert.

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Then back on the bikes and the return to Erfoud.
 
At Erfoud we picked up the road across to Tinejdad, which was tarmac but almost off-piste with sand all over the place! We'd seen the odd camel in the touristy places but to see a herd (or is it a flock?) of about 200-300 being driven across the desert was quite spectacular so out with the cameras again.

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Then onto Tinejdad, lunch and refuel. We stopped at one of the numerous large pertol stations with a cafe next to it. We ordered cheese omlettes and mint tea, bloody lovely! but we did have to laugh as the omlettes came out-nice and fluffy omlette with a 'dairylea' cheese triangle neatly presented in the middle!
 
:clap:clap:clap Nice report, liking your work :clap:clap:clap
 
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Then onto Tinehir and the Todra Gorge.

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We rode through the touristy bit of the Todra and it was our intention to go up to the top then back down the Dades Gorge, we didn't quite expect the road to be out going up the Todra and having to take a detour into the dry river bed, but it was fun! At one point we stopped to decide our best route when we were quickly joined by two young locals who wanted to guide us, one of them thought it would be a good idea to climb up and try to get on the back of Kev's bike! So Kev being a multilinguist and a keen teacher imparted a well known anglo-saxon phrase that the lad picked up without hesitation, needless to say we rode on without guides!
 
So we rode on up the Todra, and through the villages at the top, the local children came running from all directions waving and smiling. I think they wanted us to stop so they could give us little bits of the countryside but when we didn't stop, they used us as target pratice and Kev and Dave took direct hits on their panniers!! No damage or harm done. When we got to the very top we stopped to consult the maps.


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We realised we must have missed the road to cut across and take us down the Dades Gorge. Now I havn't mentioned that Dave having been bought up as a child in France, spoke fluent French, so he consulted with a local villager who informed him that yes we had missed the road, and in any case the road was not too good and the bikes would struggle.
So with about an hour of daylight left, we decided we would have to back track all the way back to Tinehir.
With a mild sense of panic of not wanting to ride in the dark, especially off road! we turned round and set off. We hadn't stopped on the way up and we certainly didn't on the way back, the local kids didn't get the chance to even pick up a stone before we were out of range. We made it back to Hotel Le Soliel by dusk and booked in. 3 course evening meal, en-suite room each and breakfast for the princely sum of 250 dirhams each. Great. But being a Friday-no beer:beer:

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North of Todra Gorge

Enjoying your report.

Rode up north of the Todra Gorge about 4 weeks ago ...... This was it last year .........
I found the detours below the road, a real pain to ride on ..... stones were loosely packed and moving around all over the place as I rode through. Came close to dropping the bike more than once! Rode on up to Tamtatouchte after that.
 

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Next morning, once the chef had dragged his arse out of bed, we had breakfast and headed off to Zagora via Ouarzazate. Through the Draa Valley.

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Once we got to Zagora we set about finding the infamous sign. Kev ha d bought his Wiltshire flag so he could get a photo of it at the sign. After about an hour we found it, then had to wait as a coach load of 'bloody foreigners' got out of the way.

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That's Kev and the Wiltshire flag, depicting a 'Great Bustard' which has been re-introduced after being extinct-well in Wiltshire-all the way from Russia!

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Kev, Dave and Me.

Then lunch.

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Then we headed back to Ouarzazate, found a hotel, Hotel Oscar,and as we had had a dry night the night before we had a couple of cold beers.

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(Hotel Oscar is on the Atlas film studios site were they filme d'Gladiator' and 'Kingdom of Heaven')
 
Over beers in the Hotel we decided it was time to head back north, so the next morning after another feast of a breakfast we headed for Marrakech.

Although it was a bright, sunny, warm morning, it was a bit windy. And as we began to climb into the High Atlas over the Tiz-n-Tichka pass the wind got stronger. It blew from all angles and would catch us all unawares. At one point going into a hair pin right hander, down hill, the wind blew and stopped me in my tracks, to the point I thought I would either stall or fall off!! I did neither and got round. We didnt dare stop at the top, but carried on and stopped in a more sheltered location. Even then dave and myself decided to stay astride the bikes in case they got blown over. Kev though, parked his and clambered up onto some rocks to get his photos!

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Although it was only 125miles from Ouarzazate to Marrakech it took nearly 4 hours to do it. Once we got round Marrakech we jumped on the new motorway and headed north.
We made good time on the motorway and stopped mid afternoon near Rabbat for something to eat.
We had decided to get to Kenitra and stop. As it was we carried on and got to Larache just before it got dark.
We found a hotel just on the edge of town, not before time as Kev's cheeseburger and chips had decided it was time to part company with its host and having booked in Kev was feeling decidedly rough. So we all went to bed early.
Next morning Kev a good stone lighter was feeling better and we headed towards Tangiers, thinking we would get the ferry back to Spain from there.
Well we followed the signs for Port(Med) on the new motorway and seemed to ride forever until we got to the port. Only to find that this particular port was noyt finished and no ferries sailed from it!
So we went to Cueta via the coast road which was interesting, it was wet and still raining and there were landslips all along the road. One of which was no more than 50 meters from a Police check point, but they didn't seem to be too bothered by it, well it did slow the traffic down before it got to them.

Through the border with the minimum of fuss and straight onto a ferry and before we new it we were back in Spain. All a bit surreal.

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We rode up to Seville and stopped. Spanish beers alround.:beerjug:

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Diner in the hotel was not until 9.30pm as they were expecting a coach party.
A swarm of locusts would have been put to shame by this lot, as by the time they had gone through there was nothing left.
Only one thing for it. We had taken camping stuff and rations just in case of emergency or the mood took us. So we snuck down to the bikes and back to my terrace where we had chilli,curry and pasta followed by spotted dick!!!!

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The rest of the journey was pretty uneventful, apart that both Dave and then myself had a touch of what Kev had gone through in Larache. We stopped just north of Salamanca.

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Then the next day up to Torresviega.

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Next day it was Santander and the Ferry back to the UK.

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nice to read that other Tossers use their bikes as intended. I passed through the Todra Gorge last year and came across the said, crumbling road only to find a french, very large campervan driving down the dry riverbed as the road was impassable for him!I struggled to find a place wide enough to turn around as it really was too bad for me but had to inform the driver that the road was a no-go and that he would have to reverse back, the way he just came! That was with a 6-foot overhang on his van!mmmm...
 
It wasn't too bad, but I felt for Dave he'd never done any intentional off road before, but he just kept on the gas and the bike did the rest. That is indeed what they were built to do.:cool
 
Cheers

Thanks for the read and photo's. I very much enjoyed that :clap

I'll get there next year with a bit of luck !

Archie :thumb2
 


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