World of BMW Moroccan Desert Adventure Oct 08

[Tractorpilot]

If your trip has half as much as ours you will have a great time. Enjoy!

TP

[Eric DN]

Originally Posted by Jenkins

Thanks for posting the slideshow - a nice little taster for what I've got to expect next week. Currently counting down until the ferry leaves Plymouth in a little over 48 hours. Only 2 'get-ups' to go!

Hi
We leave tomorrow morning, Toulouse Almeria with car and trailer, and ferry to Nador.
The journey ( if we can ), debdou, benitajite, Merzouga, Mhamid,Tata, Tafraoute, Aguinan, Ouarzazat, Imilchil, boulemane, Nador.
2 weeks on site.
The same mates as two years ago, look at the blog
http://two400xrinmorocco.blogspot.com/
Eric

[Tractorpilot]

Day 01 – Overnight Ferry (Plymouth to Santander)
Sunday 28th September 2008
Met boarded drank ate slept
The holiday began with a 2 hour run for me from Worcester down to Plymouth. When I reached Plymouth, I stopped at the Sainsbury superstore for fuel and food. I spotted a blue 08 R12GS so parked next to it. It turned out to be Blue Sweeper’s bike (Roy). Blue Sweeper was the tour leader and was meeting Dave, our Tail End Charlie (David A Hall) and Cameron, one of the other riders. The four of us rode together down to the ferry port. The usual wait followed

but the 13 people on the tour from mainland Britain all turned up in time and we were off.


Day 02 – Santander to Salamanca
Monday 29th September 2008
Lumpy and interesting then flat and flatter
We left Santander and followed a route through the Picos de Europas mountains heading for Salamanca. After the Picos the route was mostly flat and a bit tedious. No maps, we followed town names off a list to get to our destination. The GPS was pretty useless and spent most of the time recalculating as it could not recognise all the new sections of roads the Spanish have built. Not that I am complaining, it cut an hour off the time taken to get to Salamanca.

At Salamanca, we hooked up with the other two members of our party, Mark & Hamish who had ridden down through France from Guernsey. Our first overnight stop in Spain was spent in a city centre hotel which allowed us to visit the old square

of this university city

and after a look around we enjoyed a great meal

at a restaurant close to the square.


Day 03 – Salamanca to Carmona
Tuesday 30th September 2008
Flatter and longer
More long miles of Spain to cross, most of it still very flat. We finally reached Carmona, near Seville where we were stopping for the night

at the Parador which was fantastic.

Restored as a hotel it was a beautiful place to stay.


The interior was beautiful

too



Day 04 – Carmona to Algeciras and ferry to Ceuta
Wednesday 1st October 2008



A bit more interesting after Carmona, much more entertaining roads to wear out knobbly tyres on!

We stopped for lunch at Ronda with its historical bridge.

Mark found an interesting place to park. He wasn't the first - I managed to knock mine over first but no one had a camera out. After a while quite few more of us had managed it at one time or another. Rob got the award as the world's strongest GSA lifter.

After more lovely twisty roads we came down out of the mountains and paused for coffee

then it was on to Algeciras to catch the ferry across the Straits of Gibraltar to Africa!

That night we stayed at another Parador in Ceuta in Spanish Morocco prior to crossing the border in the morning.

More to follow when I can upload some more pics. More of the off road stuff to enjoy

TP

[Tractorpilot]

Day 05 – Ceuta into Morocco and on to Ifrane
Thursday 2nd October 2008
Africa, offroad, definitely different and good
Africa proper at last. I haven’t put mileages up across the Spanish section of the journey because it was done as on an independent basis with people travelling in smaller groups, not one big party. From here on I will give you the daily mileages I showed on my GPS when available. Just for background; Santander to Salamanca was about 225 miles, Carmona was a further 300 odd miles and it was about half (160 miles) that from Carmona to Algeciras/Ceuta. So we covered near 700 miles over three days.

Border clearances went smoothly and we hooked up with the support vehicle, a Land Cruiser pick-up, which would take the luggage while we in Morocco. Our destination for the day was Ifrane. That meant we were travelling over the Rif mountains into the real Morocco passing through Fes en route to Ifrane. Ifrane (nicknamed Little Switzerland) is a town and ski resort in the Middle Atlas region, population 12,000+. Ifrane is 1,650 m in altitude – more stuff here.

or

With a last look at Ceuta, it was off into the Rif mountains heading for the Barrage de Al Wahda, a dam with a large lake behind it.

That was some distance away and we were still getting used to the pace of the place, road surfaces, traffic, local hazards etc. A morning coffee stop was the original intention but Ramadan was just finishing and the planned stop was not open - we pressed on and as usual something turned up. Before we reached the barrage, Roy recognised a little roadside cafe/store where he had stopped the previous year. I don't think the shopkeeper quite believed what was happening at first - 15 vultures disguised as bikers descended on his food and drink stocks!

Roy remembered he had had a puncture fixed by a lad here in previous years. He asked the shop keeper if he remembered and the boy said yes he did remember it.


Refreshed, it was on to the barrage. No pictures of the dam - it is forbidden. So we moved down the lake a distance before stopping for a break. This is where we had our first off tarmac session of the tour as we took a graded but unsurfaced road past the lake behind the dam. Not challenging compared with later runs but a good place to start for me with little experience since the Level 1 course in South Wales the summer before. Don't know what it will be like next year as the grading looked very much like a precursor to sealing the road in the near future - progress


Onwards and inwards. Through the Rif and on to Fez.

Our first experience of Moroccan city traffic. No time to take pictures. We survived.

In the evening we arrived in Ifrane at the hotel.

The first challenge was a bit more off roading - up two steps onto the patio area where they wanted us to park the bikes!

Then there was the usual chaos sorting out baggage and rooms

Once that was sorted we could pause for breath. I was glad to be finding things pretty easy to get use to so far. The hotel was a nice place but seemed to be running on an off-season basis and appeared undermanned. The bar was shut. They said it was because of Ramadan but I believe Ramadan was over by then. Perhaps it was some local variation. Anyway, a bar in town was open so we got a drink. They said the hotel bar reopened on Sunday. We would see on the way back. Looking forward to tomorrow and some proper tarmac free riding...

More to follow - whether you like or not

TP

- oh yeah, we did 402 km (250 miles) climbing from sea level to 1636m.

[Tractorpilot]

Day 06 – Off road round Ifrane
Friday 3rd October 2008
No tarmac under these wheels, Mint Tea Farm, The Hill, Apres-bike

Today was an off road day and we followed a long circular route through Cedar forests, open pasture land and boulder fields with linking road runs. Ideal Beemer territory.

Not long after we left the road we pulled up to let the group which had strung out a bit reassemble.
In what became typical, less than two minutes after we stopped someone appeared. He wanted a cigarette for having a picture taken so the only smoker was bullied into parting company with a duty free!

On through the woods and meadowlands we continued. It was easy to get strung out, six bikes in the shot below but already at least one person has climbed the opposite side of the valley.

All the more reason for the regular stops allow us to regroup and rehydrate,

to take in the view,

and get that pic for the album.


At lunch time we pulled over just after a farmhouse to munch down the rolls we had prepared at breakfast.

Sure enough someone appeared, the farmer. He insisted that all 15 of us come to his house for Mint Tea and something to eat. This was our first experience of Moroccan generosity which was fantastic and humbling. With boots removed and fortunately unsmelly feet

we washed our hands

and were served Mint Tea and bread fresh from the oven. It was a delightful experience.

After lunch it was back from the farm to the bikes

to find out what lay around the next corner...


We pressed on and the road opened to reveal a dry stream bed to cross. Gerald demonstrated how it should be done. I am lurking behind a tree to the right, thinking better watch carefully how to do it...

This was my first proper clang of the holiday as I did not give it enough grunt to fight through the rocks in the stream bed. As with others before, everyone rallies round and the bike is soon up and back on the track and I completed the rest of the stretch

followed by a climb up the rock strewn track without incident. I think this is Hamish completing the top of the climb.

Everyone else made it up the slope too. A great combination of teamwork and coaching with a smidgeon of luck!


We continued through similar territory. Now this is a great pic of Kev but look in the background as the bikes are spaced out along the track far enough apart not to get dust blinded and able to see their route ahead 20-25m in front. I make it 9 bikes in the pic.

on again

then a bit on the roads

until we were back in the boulder fields

before a road run back to Ifrane, dinner and a trip to the bar we had found in the town for an apres-trail drink or two.

Did I say there was one smoker?



I should have already pointed out that while some of the photos are mine more are taken by other members of the party and credit is due for their skills whilst editorial up-f*** are mine

The kilometerage? (can't be bothered converting it) 217km in 7h40m from 1500m above sea level to just under 2100m.

Waving the white flag now - enough for one night. Will try to add a bit more tomorrow.

Cheers
TP

[easyman05]

cool pixs and great ride!

few words about F800GS, pls!

[Tractorpilot]

More to come including F800GS pics

Comment for now is: - it did everything the others did without any problems.

samuelsnow was the one riding it. PM him for further info or see if he wants to post anything further

TP

[Tractorpilot]

Day 07 – Ifrane to Erfoud
Saturday 4th October 2008
Long road run across the Atlas to the desert

Over the High Atlas today to Erfoud. We had to climb from Ifrane a bit more than 1.6km above sea level up about another 500m before dropping to 830m above sea level at the end of the run. We crossed the Mid, High and Anti-Atlas mountains to reach Erfoud near the Erg Chebbi sand sea. Today was a longer run in increasing temperatures to get south, about 350km.


The run started with a quick checkover of the bikes after yesterday's various excursions and the main issues were a couple of tyres that needed sorting and some slightly 'reconfigured' screen mounting arrangements which needed 'adjusting'. The hotel patio briefly became Tyres'R'Us then we were ready to go.


For the run to Erfoud we split into smaller parties rather than riding in one big group of 15. Navigationally, once we got out of Ifrane () it was straightforward. So off we went each group travelling at a pace that suited them.

Slowly the outline of the High Atlas with snow in places became clearer as we travelled south.

We stopped for lunch at Midelt (I think).

Chicken and chips with a bottle of coca-cola for those participating. I gave it a miss apart from the drink today as I had been getting stomach cramps etc popping pills and riding with buttocks carefully clenched! I tend to try and work on the basis that you take the precautions, you make sure you have the medication and then get on with it.

So let's get on with it. The main feature of the day's ride prior to arriving in Erfoud was the Gorge du Ziz through the Atlas mountains

and

where the road follows the course of the river which irrigates the land

supplying the Kasbah's,

forts

and palmeries.


We arrived at our hotel in the evening, the Hotel Kasbah Xaluca and I was impressed with the place. Nothing Fawlty Towers here!

The rooms were arranged in a series of courtyard blocks

around a central patio/garden area with pool

plenty of space



This area generates a lot of tourist income from fossils - a motif extended to the washing arrangements


Overall, the combination of cramps and the hot ride took a lot out of me that day and after a short chill at the bar - retired fairly early to get a good rest before tomorrow's event: out to the Erg Chebbi sand sea to try riding in deep sand, take camels on deeper into the dunes then stay overnight in tents before returning the next morning.

But you will have to wait for that!

TP

[samuelsnow]

Originally Posted by easyman05

cool pixs and great ride!

few words about F800GS, pls!

Ill stick a report in the 800/650 twin section but for now Ill just say the F800GS performed impeccably! Even fully loaded it comfortably kept up with the 1200's in terms of cruising speed and was fantastic fun off road where it really came into its own.

[Tractorpilot]

Day 08 – Erfoud to Merzouga and the Erg Chebbi
Sunday 5th October 2008

Sand, Camels, Music, Tent

The day dawned bright - no surprises there then. Unfortunately for me bright had not summed up my state of mind the previous evening when I got off the bike feeling slightly sick - I had neglected to switch off the riding lights which run direct from the battery and - yeah, flat battery. I realised this after having spent a somewhat uncomfortable night with my misbehaving innards. The bottom didn't fall out of my world - the reverse is closer to the truth.

So no, I was not sharpest tool in the box that day. I decided the powers were telling me that it was not meant that I bike that day - neither of us were fit. I could almost see the f**k-up fairy waiting to come calling and sprinkle about the f**k-up dust..

Well, all was not lost, the hotel was able to get the battery on charge and there was a way I could go along.

The plans for the day were to travel out to Merzouga and the Erg Chebbi dunes by bike, have lunch and then camel trek into the dunes to overnight in bedouin tents. A 4x4 was also going to the auberge where we were meeting the camels and so popped full of pills etc I was able to hop on and do some filming and photography. The results (some of them) are shown below. Youtube video should follow later.

On the way out to Erg Chebbi we were warned that there had been rain recently and conditions were unclear but we crossed the river (Ziz) OK

- it was not high or fast and then we climbed a gravel track up a rocky promenance to look out over Erfoud.
The river Ziz coming round

to Erfoud

Just liked this shot of the F800GS in the kind of place it belongs. Likes right at home doesn't it?

After that it was out to Merzouga. Which way? Well - follow the tarmac...

and keep going!

Big skies...

Ride your own route - look closely there is a second bike in the background.

Starting to enjoy this...

All the shots in this blog are straight from the card - no artificial enhancements! Just fun riding.



Now Gerald knew exactly where the camera was. Look at the puddles too.

I included this pic because the blur is indicative of the combined speed and bumps - we were none of us hanging about.

one of Blue Sweeper's

more of mine



Blue Sweeper.

Now that's a whole lotta nuthin'

So what's the fuss about? I do it every day.
Not one of mine (Nigel's?) but I loved it.

After some great 'point and pray' photo opportunities we arrived at the auberge by the dunes.


More in an hour or two...
TP

[Tractorpilot]

Day 08 continued...

So we arrived at the Auberge

parked up the bikes

and had a bite to eat

followed by a play on the bikes for a bit in the sand,

and/or a siesta

or whatever you preferred

then get cleaned up and do the Lawrence of Arabia bit.

Shame we didn't have anyone called Lawrence in the group.

After lunch, the judging panel assembled for a festival of foolery and folly.

ready to cast their experienced eyes

over the feeble attempts of some of the group

to successfully manouvre or manhandle their mechanical steeds through the soft stuff

Some people seemed to find it easier than others

Nick seemed to breeze through without effort

Others were diggin it out...

5.9 for artistic impression on this one - a new move for the 800!

The elegant reclining and the shoddy parking in this one are misleading

It is in fact Stuart Austin - the 6,000,000 dirham man. He had busted 3 ribs in this dismount although none of us realised it at the time. We can rebuild him!! Where's the gaffer tape and cable ties? Fair play he continued through the rest of the holiday and only got confirmation of the condition after returned.

Alex was having a go and seemed to be getting the hang of it well

until he disappeared over a dune and it was only as we prepared to send out a search party that he reappeared. Easy to get disorientated and get bogged down out of site.

To be fair I have to say these guys were doing it - I just watched. Respect.

Of course as soon as the 800 was unoccupied it was too much of a temptation for David who decided judging didn't deliver enough fun

When he came back I think he was muttering something along the lines of "No, no more - it's too much fun"

So it's time to clean up and kick start a camel or whatever you do


Next time

TP

[Tractorpilot]

I mentioned earlier there had been some rain and we were watching the sky closely. The signs were there that we might actually have a thunderstorm in the desert - that would be something special

Once everyone was mounted up we set off.

Roy of the Desert - complete with GPS to check where we were!

Err - put your own caption on this one!

So... you think the camel is cute?

We trekked for a couple of hours with various anatomical parts feeling increasingly tender then increasingly numb! After two hours we were off the camels to trek the last part over a large dune to the camp.

Hard work in the sand and it was more bloody mindedness than stamina that got me up the last bit.

The storm was still hovering out there. As the evening drew on, it closed round three sides of us giving a spectacular lightning show but miraculously we remained dry.

and finally down the slope to the camp

After cleaning up at the camp dinner was being prepared

Healthy appetites all round

followed by Berber music


No comments from me on the next set of photos by Carl. I just think they are too good to leave out.


















and that was it for the night.

More later

TP

[Tractorpilot]

Day 09 - Back to Erfoud
Monday 6th October 2008

Chill

I woke up pretty early this morning hoping to see a sunrise in the desert. The cloud still hovering from last night's storm prevented that but I wasn't th eonly one with the same idea and four hardy souls tracked back up the dunes more in hope than expectation of a sunrise. Oh well, file that under 'unfinished business' . What a shame, I will have to go back!

After an open-air breakfast,

it was back on the camels for a trek back out of the dunes. As we would be coming out some way from our point of entry we would be travelling back to the auberge by 4x4.

Some say his knees are equipped White Power shocks and that his ankles are equipped with gyroscopic stabilisation. All I know is they call him - the Landy Surfer


We returned to the auberge and picked up the bikes heading back to Merzouga and Erfoud. The storm of last night was evident in the sand and of course some of the guys had to inspect it more closely.




We got back to the river Ziz at Erfoud to find it had risen considerably overnight and that the ford was now quite a challenge. Crossing the river soon became quite a spectator sport for the locals

Stuart showing how to do it

Look at the speed of the water across the road and the spray and currents to the right on the downstream side.

All the bikes made it across - good job guys!

That was enough excitement for one day so it was back to the hotel

and relax - not quite 'Ice Cold in Alex' but the beer tasted sweet.


TP

[twisticles]

I'm enjoying this...can't wait for the next installment

[Tractorpilot]

Day 10 Tuesday 7th October
Erfoud to Ouarzazate

Salt mines, 2 pistes, twisty mountain climbs

The original schedule plan for today was Erfoud to Ouarzazate (War-za-zat) via Todra Gorge and Dades Valley. That was before the Moroccan weather had its effect on the roads. An alternative route was selected. For people who want to see what was going on in that area have a look at Happy Pilgrim's report here: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162868. So where did we go then?

We went there and there and - about 250 miles in 8 hours (414km in new money). Along the R702 to the N10 then south to Alnif with a piste section on the route. After lunch at Alnif, we took the N12 to Tazzarine, Nekob and joined the N9. Nick and Gerald diverted off around here somewhere on a private expedition to Zagora, rejoining us at the end of the day. The rest of us followed the N9 for a while before diverting off to follow a parallel piste. We rejoined the N9 and continued on to Ouarzazate.

Yeah, yeah, so where are the pictures?
Right here!

About an hour after leaving Erfoud we pulled up alongside what looked like overgrown mole hils in the desert.

They were in fact salt workings

and deep!

We continued along the R702 and about 3 hours from Erfoud turned right off the road south to Alnif onto our first piste of the day.

A nice gentle piste through villages if I remember correctly. Something to set an appetite for lunch which followed in Alnif.

After lunch we headed for Tansikht on the R108 and then the N9.
Time for some more pics, a cheesy one for the family

and another I like

We turned right off the N9 for the afternoon piste.

On through palmeries

and the road opened out

Unfortunately good things come to an end,

and the latter part of the road was sealed. Blue Sweeper snapped the group

as we rolled onto the tarmac again

The fun wasn't over though, we had a twisty climbing run after the piste before we got to Ouarzazate. Plenty of photo opportunites.

Climbing from Agdz to Ait Saoun then on to Ouarzazate and our hotel

The end of another day's riding in Morocco.


More soon

TP

[Tractorpilot]

Day 11 Wednesday 8th October
Ouarzazate to Marrakech

Ait Ait Ben Haddou, Telouet Piste, Tiz'n'Tichka, Marrakech Square

This was the definitive day of the holiday for me. A fantastic off road piste. 133 miles travelled for the day.

The hotel cat was sorry to see its comfortable overnight accomodation being taken away

Then it was on to the Gladiator/Lawrence of Arabia etc film set village at Ait Ben Haddou

Then it was on to the Telouit Piste (I think)

This was a fantastic and varied piste

with

lots (look ma a F800GS!)

of

excellent

photo

opportunities

1150 through the ford

Now would this make an advert for a certain company?

Pause for water and regroup

Then its off again heading for the end of the valley where we would meet THE HILL...

More later

TP