To the Kingdom of MacBrayne and the Utter Hebrides

It all started…

when I realised I had a problem with the time I had booked off for the Gathering of the Clans at Ullapool. I had put in a request for Friday and Monday as leave. Plenty of time to get up there from Worcester for Friday and Saturday night followed by a leisurely recovery and an excursion on Sunday and a bit more exploration on the way back on Monday.

Good plan until the fcuk up fairy took a hand. Someone at work had already booked the Friday off and there was a family birthday which I could not miss as well. No issue, I was home and working on Friday. I would travel up Saturday. Better than nothing, especially if I took the day on Tuesday instead. Yep that was OK at work.

A cunning plan started to form – all those trips to Skye (well, three of them) and staring out at the Outer Hebrides…



I thought I remembered a ferry terminal at Ullapool, now what if I could get a ferry to somewhere. How often did they go ? How much did it cost? Were there any roving ticket options? Was that my tea I could smell burning?

The answer to all the above questions was Yes.

TP

A plan...



Of course there is only one ferry site to check for Scotland and that is Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac). I quickly found out that:

the ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway ran on a Monday morning (about two and a half hours),


the ferry between the northern island of Lewis and Harris and North Uist (Berneray) runs four times a day and takes an hour or so,

there was a ferry from Lochboisdale in South Uist Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 9am to Oban which took about 4 hours,


tea was ruined and I was off to the takeaway.


Being used to the delights of The Isle of Man Steam Racket Company TT ferry prices I approached the price section of the website with trepidation and a Singapore Chow Mein.

I was very presently surprised to discover that the fcukup fairy had gone off to ruin someone else’s day. The Singapore Chow Mein was excellent and CalMac do a range of tickets called Hopscotch tickets over different routes which meant I could book a ticket on the phone to collect at Ullapool on Monday for all three ferries for £72.90 for me and the bike.

The following day at work I persuaded the boss it would be OK to take Wednesday as well and made the arrangements. Things were looking promising!

More later but the fcuk fairy is back and messing up my bandwidth so will post more tomorrow
TP

About time too

Get oan wi' it

Onwards and outwards - a bit, then back again

So, copious drinking etc on Saturday, ferry on Monday, I needed a plan for Sunday. The light coming in through the tent got me up pretty early on the Sunday and I took myself and my camera for a walk. I was quite pleased with the results










While I was out wandering round I checked the times and prices for the boat trips out to the Summer Isles at the mouth of Loch Broom shown here


and decided I would do a bit of seal and bird watching.


I was going to put in a map showing the Summer Isles but I was rather surprised to discover that Google Terrain Map has sunk them all and the Google Map satellite image shows only some of them with the others fading out in a kind of Twilight Zone, Bermuda Triangle way!



There is a community on the south side of Loch Broom who only have access by sea to Ullapool. The track you can see does not connect to the road network I was told.





The weather held out and it was a great way to spend three hours on a Sunday.















I had a lazy rest of the day after the day before’s hours in the saddle. Took a last few pics before getting some rest to be up for the ferry next day.

This is good. Keep it coming TP.

More please!

Looking forward to the rest of the trip...........

Onwards - not back again

Another lovely day dawned and after breakfast and packing the camping gear onto the tractor it was off to the ferry terminal where the ticket pickup went without a hitch.

Shortly after I had got everything sorted out I discovered that I was not to be travelling alone. Unsurprising really, like a bad smell, there’s always a tosser lurking close by. Enter (stage left) one ‘Gimlet’ of this un-club and his better half on heavily laden, very pretty, red 1100



The ferry manoeuvred into position at the end of the jetty and we were soon loaded and off to leave Loch Broom and cross the Sea of the Hebrides to the Isle of Lewis and Harris



We left on time about half ten and by one we were approaching the Isle of Lewis and Harris.



We had been talking about what to do when we got off the ferry (yes OK – ride motorbikes, I know). It turned out I was on a slightly tighter time scale than Mr & Mrs Gimlet who had the week. whereas I was on the Wednesday ferry to Oban.

We decided to stick together for Monday but that I would strike out on my own on Tuesday to be sure of reaching the ferry port Tuesday night for my ferry departure on Wednesday. Neither of us having been to the Western Isles before we were not really sure of travelling times, road types etc.

Gimlet had the GPS as mine was not working so I followed him out of Stornoway and we headed up to the north end of the island following the dotted route until it meets our later route where we turned north.



Our first port of call was to be the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse, as far north as I was to get on this trip. We got there about 2:15, parked up and went for a wander round.



Clear seas, rocks showing all their folds and buckling. Someone said the rocks here are the oldest in the world. Not sure about that, but you could sure see lots about the geology and rock structure.


The grass was sprinkled with a dusting of pink flowers. No idea what they were but perhaps some botanical tosser (there must be one) can say what they are.


If you’re going to jump, can I have the bike? Just wait a sec while I set up the camera…


Better get a picture of the lighthouse in here somewhere. Below and left of the lighthouse you can make out Mr&Mrs G. A real people oriented picture huh?


If I had stepped back much further I would have been down there. Beautiful clear seas.


After half an hour or so we ambled off heading south towards Harris.


This was the view south on Lewis, tiny spec in distance on road, Gimlet’s bike, lump on the horizon = mountainous area of Harris to the south. Also, note small village to right of road.


Outside the villages, a lot of Lewis is like this, flat, empty, with lots of evidence of peat cutting (not in this pic though)


We pulled over at Steinacleit to examine one of the many prehistoric remains around the island.


From Steinacleit we followed the main road south until we reached Callanish where we wanted to see the famous standing stones (see earlier map). From the flatness of the northern half of the island (Lewis), we were moving into more lumpy scenery in the southern half of the island (Harris). I never quite figured out where one ended and the other began, still, you could see a difference.




We arrived at Callanish about 5pm and after a cup of tea and a snack walked up the hill to see the stones. I was impressed. They did seem to have a certain something about them. I think it comes across in the pictures.











We left Callanish about 5:30 and I was looking at the map and thinking I needed to get a bit further south and find somewhere to stop to be sure of getting a ferry in the morning because if I just missed a sailing it would be two hours before the next one.

We pressed on and as we returned towards Stornoway and turned south, the scenery became more dramatic.



We followed the road you can see in the following picture – nice



About this time we spotted a sign for a hotel and although we had camping gear we had not seen any campsites and were a bit unsure about whether wild camping would be OK near the main road. We tried them (Loch Erisort) but they were fully booked and told us that a lot of accommodation would be but that we might be lucky in Tarbert. We cracked on riding along a really nice mountain road and reached Tarbert sometime around 7 (I think) and set about finding somewhere to stay. I ended up in a single in one hotel down by the harbour while the other two were in a B&B overlooking the west loch.

I walked back past the east loch up to the main hotel in the town and met the others for a meal.



Gimlet wasn’t hungry


He left everything he didn’t like


After that, time for a wee dram and off to ma bed.


More soon,
TP

Onwards and southwards

The following morning I had a ride down across South Harris to Leverburgh to catch the ferry to Berneray then across the causeway to North Uist.



After a leisurely breakfast and trip to the cashpoint it was off on my own now. The scenery was rocky and hilly and it was a very pleasant ride down to Leverburgh

Here are a few pictures from along the way





The next three were taken near Seilebost. Fantastic views out over the Sound of Taransay.







This next pic was taken a bit further round the coast after Horgabost.



There was a campsite at Horgabost, one of the few campsites I spotted on the trip. It looked quite good. Gimlet stayed there the following night and reckoned it was a good one. I will probably give it a try next time.

Anyway, on to catch the next ferry. I caught the 11:35 ferry which was an easy run down from Tarbert, not sure exactly as I didn’t have the GPS working but I probably left Tarbert about 10ish and had plenty of time.



We left Harris behind



And had to thread our way through the low islets southward towards North Uist and Berneray



The journey took about an hour and they didn’t bother to strap down the tractor which did not worry me in the fine conditions



Slowly the destination crept closer



At Berneray, as I got off the ferry, I spotted another GS waiting to get on the ferry to go north. I yelled a cheery greeting (polite) but didn’t stop as I wanted to keep moving. It turned out to be Boatman. We met again later at the Green Wellie as I was returning from Oban and he recognised me. As I said before, like a bad smell, Tossers get everywhere!



On the map above the islands of Berneray, North Uist, Benbecula and South Uist are all connected by causeways which run over tidal flats which may be mud or sea depending on the state of the tide. This was taken on North Uist not long after I got off the ferry.



And this was near one of the causeways I think.



When I got onto Benbecula, I took the right turn off the main road across the island because I was curious to see the airport and I wanted some fuel. I had fuelled at Ullapool and still had plenty but just wanted to play safe. It turned out to be well worth it for the views.

Looking right up the runway.



And panning left



Left


I then spotted something over the runway


Is it a bird – well sort of


Damn great paraffin parrot sort of


A herky-bird


Nice


It was about half past one and I decided I should get a bit of a move on as I needed to get down somewhere near Lochboisdale where my next ferry departed from at 9 in the morning.

The main road south down the length of South Uist runs between hills on the left (east) side and the atlantic beaches to the right (west).

Looking to the hills


I rode to the ferry departure point at Lochboisdale first to make sure I knew where I had to be and check the ferry departure time. I had not spotted any signs for camp sites on the way to Lochboisdale but there had been B&B places and a few hotels. I decided to go back to the junction where the road turned east for Lochboisdale and continue south to see what there was down that way. I tried a couple of hotels on the way but they were fully booked as we had found in our search for accommodation the previous night. No camp site signs either so I was wondering what to do. Anyway, my wanderings took me down to the south coast of South Uist and I looked out from Pollachar over the Sound of Barra to Eriskay and Barra



Next time I will get to Barra. Gimlet and Mrs G got down there after I left and reckoned it was worth it. He managed to spot a Sea Otter down there.

It was nearing three and I was feeling lazy so I turned back up towards Lochboisdale and went down to the jetty. There is a hotel next to the jetty, the Lochboisdale Hotel and they had rooms. Not a palace but nice and friendly.

A relaxing afternoon and evening followed and I was ready for the last ferry trip in the morning.

TP

Great RR - looking forward to getting back out to the islands now I've seen this

Nice one, brings back fond memories of the Ooter Hebrides

I was waving at ye ower the Minch but ye just drove on


Great report

Superb report TP, I went over to Harris / Lewis last Ocober and spent a few hours at Callanish, very special place and hope to go back there again. Great photos which camera do you use?

Peak said:

Great photos which camera do you use?

Click to expand...

He's goat wan o' they new fangled wans



By the way- Fruitcake says the pink flowers are 'Thrift'

H.R.H. OONYACK said:

I was waving at ye ower the Minch but ye just drove on


Great report

Click to expand...

I waved back but you were on yer way into the pub

Cracking report there TP. Thanks.

wully said:

He's goat wan o' they new fangled wans

By the way- Fruitcake says the pink flowers are 'Thrift'

Click to expand...

Er Sony Cybershot point n press DSC 55 7.2megapixels for a lot of them but for the wildlife shots, Canon EOS 500 with Tamron 70-300mm.

Thanks Fruitcake - was sure somebody would know what the flowers were.

Got one or two more from the ferry back to Oban which I will post later this week. All in all an excellent trip but I want to go back and spend a bit more time there and visit Barra

TP

Nice report, thanks for posting.
I'm heading out there two weeks today, your post gives some good pointers. My research so far has consisted of a plan on a tea towel.

Hitchikers guide to the galaxy (and TPs guide to the Western Isles)
When the GPS fails DON'T PANIC and always know where your towel is

The way home

I was up early to load the bike before breakfast and the 100 metre journey to the ferry for 9am.



The ferry arrived on schedule



And started loading



On board and a last look around



Before we’re off



Leaving South Uist



Visible on the horizon



Hyskeir Lighthouse
Located on rocks 6 miles (10 km) southwest of Canna in the Inner Hebrides and 9 miles (14.5 km) west of the island of Rum, Hyskeir Lighthouse lies in the Sea of the Hebrides at the southern entrance to the Minch. Built in 1904 by D & J MacDougall (of Oban) to the design of engineers David Alan (1854 - 1938) and Charles Alexander Stevenson (1855 - 1950), its white tower rises 39m (128 feet) above its rocky base and the light has a range of 24 miles (39 km).
Supplies had to be landed by ship, but in latter years the keepers were transferred from Oban by helicopter. The light was automated in 1997 and is now remotely monitored by the Northern Lighthouse Board in Edinburgh.



The ferry passes close to the Inner Hebrides before turning past Ardnamurchan Point into the Sound of Mull to head for Oban.



It was a very enjoyable 4 hour ferry ride with some fantastic views of Rhum, Eigg, Muck with Skye beyond them with Coll, Tiree and Mull to the south



And another



The lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point which we visited on the Compass Rose trip round Scotland. It is the westernmost point on the Scottish mainland, 25 miles further west than Lands End



and again



Into the Sound of Mull



Passing Tobermory



Through the Sound



To the southern end of the Great Glen



To Oban





And the end of my first trip round the Kingdom of MacBrayne



Only another seven and a half hours in the saddle to get home

(end)
TP