1150 fuel tank stud broken any idea how to repair

jim elderfield

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Hiya people,
I have got a mint 1150GS tank but one of the fuel tank pump flange bolts has broken any way of removing the stud and fitting a new one that will be petrol leak proof?
Tank is to nice to sling any help please
:beerjug: jim
 
jim elderfield said:
Hiya people,
I have got a mint 1150GS tank but one of the fuel tank pump flange bolts has broken any way of removing the stud and fitting a new one that will be petrol leak proof?
Tank is to nice to sling any help please
:beerjug: jim
Click to expand...

Jim, search under Mike O on Advrider, he fixed his just before his deer interface. Some welder fixed it for him.

There is a way

HTH, Nick
 
Like this one.

Mine was sheered by the insurance repair garage and hidden with mastik sealer as a bodge, And it was leaking for some time not a lot but weeping when filled up.

I spoke to a guy last week who is having mine and he reckons he can do a straight forward repair job on it ' how I don't know ? but he seems confident but he does own his own engineering company. I'll try and speak to him regarding his repair plan.
 

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you could try this

What size are the studs, can you not drill & tap it then put a screw in from the back to give you a stud or just a short screw/bolt fron the outside as wont need to be to tight to seal
 
when i bust a couple, a friend drilled out the broken stumps & tapped them M5, screwed in new studs with loctite sealer.

not been tested yet as i bought a new s/h tank in the meantime. looked like it should work though.
 
a friend drilled out the broken stumps & tapped them M5, screwed in new studs with loctite sealer.

or just use a loctited hex head bolt (threaded all the way up ( set screw )) screwed in from the back to become a stud. :thumb
 
THANKS

motomartin said:
a friend drilled out the broken stumps & tapped them M5, screwed in new studs with loctite sealer.

or just use a loctited hex head bolt (threaded all the way up ( set screw )) screwed in from the back to become a stud. :thumb
Click to expand...

Hiya People,
Thanks very much for all the info drill and tapped seems the way to go like the idea of a set screw and loctite sealer, will give it a go and let you know.

But if there is anyother way please keep em coming very interesting.

Oh and phil stop putting the Sydney weather up its making me feel even worse as kirstie winds me up every day with how nice everything is down under:D
Thanks again chaps:beerjug: jim
 
Drill out the snaped stud, place bolt of suitable size in hole from inside the tank & braze it in place.

Obviously you'll to vent the tank first or you could do as I've done in the past, suck the fumes out with a vacuum cleaner (not good idea) or whilst wearing crash helmet etc, ignite fuel vapour with gas torch at arms length & hope for the best (not that clever really :augie). Both worked, with the latter only done as I needed to weld the tank ASAP.

I know a good welder/brazer (local) who may give it a go if it's properly vented for a few days?
 
Most sheet metal companys have whats called a stud welder, some car body shops have them to, they could simply weld a new threaded stud on.
 
Steptoe said:
Put the tank on an exhaust pipe ( bike or car) and run the engine for 5 minutes - Makes it totally safe .
Click to expand...


I don't know if that works with catalyist equipped cars or bikes. I thought it was the carbon monoxide fumes that made it change from 'BANG' to 'WOOF' when the torch comes out.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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