1150 rear shock rebuild

brewking

Registered user
Joined
Nov 27, 2007
Messages
124
Reaction score
0
Location
London
My 2000 1150 has a rear shock that is not working as well as it once did. My head is shaking over all the bumps in London no matter how much pre load is set. The tyre pressures and front shock are fine.

Any advice? Would there be a noticeable improvement if the shock was serviced? Any body else have this done?

Cheers
 
Try ABE just down the road from you, it will make a big difference to the handling
 
Did that on mine which I am convinced is fubared and it will do for some time now. Two top ups though.

Mine doesn't click do they all? Wish I had an owners handbook for my bike.
 
Did that on mine which I am convinced is fubared and it will do for some time now. Two top ups though.

Mine doesn't click do they all? Wish I had an owners handbook for my bike.

By click i assume you mean the remote adjuster, yes they do click for different positions but not as pronounced as others ive used.
 
Did that on mine which I am convinced is fubared and it will do for some time now. Two top ups though.

Mine doesn't click do they all? Wish I had an owners handbook for my bike.

The adjuster should click, once every half-turn. If it doesn't, then it probably means that the inside and underneath of the adjuster is full of road-crud. Probably worth taking the knob off and seeing what can be done...Most things on these bikes seem to respond to cleaning and a bit of oil.
I just topped up the reservoir as per the link, gained about 30% more range of adjustment. Cool. It didn't even take ten minutes. I used some 5-50 synthetic engine oil (It was the thinnest oil I had to hand - too tight to buy any) .
 
The standard unit is also infamous for the adjuster shaft seizing. The plastic handle then turns on the square section. It feels as though you are making an adjustment but the handle is just slipping on the shaft. Same as above, remove handle, clean everything thoroughly, put a little oil on the shaft and then use a mole grip or a very tight fitting spanner to ease the shaft back and fowards until easy movement is restored.

Mix up a tiny amount of Araldite or similar, place in the square recess in the handle and screw it back on. Or, if you are flash and flush, buy a new handle.:) I got another 5,000 or so miles out of my unit like that until I put a set of Wilbers on the bike.
 
I beleive that the 'clicking' is due to the ball bearing between the adjuster and shaft. This is what give ou that positive feel when you turn the adjuster. These are very small and fall out as you take the handle off.
I just happened to hear a ping when I took mine off and saw it bounce. Luckily, I found it.

A good tip when you have the adjuster off is to turn the preload a few times using a speedy brace or socket and wrench.
 
I beleive that the 'clicking' is due to the ball bearing between the adjuster and shaft. This is what give ou that positive feel when you turn the adjuster. These are very small and fall out as you take the handle off.
I just happened to hear a ping when I took mine off and saw it bounce. Luckily, I found it.


Remove the handle inside a large freezer bag or similar and problem of disappearing bb's avoided !
 
Can anyone help.
The above link doesn't seem to work.
My preload makes no difference so I would like to this. can someone explain what I need to do..

Also despite my best intentions the bearing has gone has anyone got any idea what size I need to replace?
Cheers
 
Can anyone help.
The above link doesn't seem to work.
My preload makes no difference so I would like to this. can someone explain what I need to do..

Wind out the pre-load all the soft end of the adjustment range. Unbolt the preload adjuster and detach it from the hose (banjo bolt underneath the adjuster).

With the adjuster on a bench, wind the preload all the way soft if you didn't already do it. Poke a rod of some description down into the body of the adjuster through the hole that the hose attaches to and push the internal piston down (the piston may be stuck half way up the adjuster - it might need a tap with a hammer on whatever you've poked down into the adjuster to start it moving).

With the piston fully down, top up the oil with anything you've got handy (I used engine oil). Refit the adjuster to the hose and reattach it to it's mounting :thumb2

Also despite my best intentions the bearing has gone has anyone got any idea what size I need to replace?
Cheers

What bearing?
 
Can anyone help.

Also despite my best intentions the bearing has gone has anyone got any idea what size I need to replace?
Cheers

What bearing?

He might mean the ball bearing, I had one that made a bid for freedom, I decided that it is not a vital part so lived without it. Then a few months later I found the ball bearing under a pile of rubbish I was clearing out. :blast
 
He might mean the ball bearing, I had one that made a bid for freedom, I decided that it is not a vital part so lived without it. Then a few months later I found the ball bearing under a pile of rubbish I was clearing out. :blast

Ah yes - in that case I don't know the size but the OP could 'measure' the hole using drills of various sizes and buy / scrounge one to suit.
 
Cheers guys
I found a bearing that fits. Tried the oil trick but didn't Want to push up on the seal too much,still made no difference. When I compress with my weight shock hisses so I guess it's blown
Time for a rebuild I think
 
Got my rear shock done recently by ABE. It feels great now, two up with with luggage. Was £100 + postage IIRC. Recommended.
 


Back
Top Bottom