1987 R100RS handlebar tank vs fairing clearance

sidkn33

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Hello

My apparently standard RS had straight up bar risers fitted when I bought it.
The PO had not taken care of the controls positions and there are marks on the left upper side of the tank where the indicator switch was hitting the paint on full lock left.
I adjusted the handlebar position but in order to ensure said switch was away from the tank enough, I ended up with the handlebar ends so close to the fairing on full lock, that my gloved hands get glued between the bars and the fairing, which is unpleasant and potentially dangerous.
Thus far every attempt at positioning the bars ends up with one of the above two scenarios. I removed the risers and still there's no achievable position where my hands are not either glued to the tank or the fairing on full lock.
The handlebars are seemingly oem and flat with no discernable vertical rise or drop between the bar centre and ends.
They are however, apparently upside-down based on the fact that the hole for the fitted BMW heated grips faces upwards, not down.

Is this full lock predicament normal on a factory RS (mono and/or twin shock)?
First two photos, full lock left clearing indicator switch from tank
Second two, adjusted for adequate clearance from fairing, switch abrades tank.
Other photos show bar shape etc.

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You should have a bolt and nut on the streering stop located o the lower part of the steering column, if there is none, it can lead to your problem.
 
Thanks.

That bolt and nut is present and correct.
I've now gone to town and fitted K75s bars which improves the situation.
It's odd that I would get a better result with taller bars than factory, especially that there's good enough clearance between fairing and bars on full lock.
 
Bars are upside down (heated grip hole should not invite water in) and it looks like you can slide the throttle side switch gear etc inwards if you slacken the clamp. That might help. Rotate the bars in the clamps so they don't hit the tank on full lock.
 
Agreed re previous owner having installed the oem bars upside down (God knows why) - I've redone everything correctly now using K75 bars as mentioned above. They have the requisite holes for heated grips and proper screw fixing of the left hand grip.
What I am seeing is that the lack of fairing clearance on full lock is actually about 10mm worse on the right hand side (so full left hand lock) - I suspect the fairing has been off or knocked and is slightly out of its correct mount position.
That lack of clearance means rotating the handlbars toward ground, which leads to the switch gear contacting the tank (even after fettling with switchgear position etc.
So now I'm going to look at the RHS fairing position.
 
Agreed re previous owner having installed the oem bars upside down (God knows why) - I've redone everything correctly now using K75 bars as mentioned above. They have the requisite holes for heated grips and proper screw fixing of the left hand grip.
What I am seeing is that the lack of fairing clearance on full lock is actually about 10mm worse on the right hand side (so full left hand lock) - I suspect the fairing has been off or knocked and is slightly out of its correct mount position.
That lack of clearance means rotating the handlbars toward ground, which leads to the switch gear contacting the tank (even after fettling with switchgear position etc.
So now I'm going to look at the RHS fairing position.
Possible/likely bent fairing frame and difficult to measure by how much. The fairing pieces are fairly stiff. If they don't fix on easily to the frame then the frame can be bent to make it fit the fairing.
 


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