2007 r1200 gs fuel range

[DrFarkoff]

Yup Sure is!

if it's a std R1200 there's a Really TINY pump on the left side that is run intermittently by the pump controller (what colour is yours?) Is there lots of water in your Fuel Pump Well?

If its a GSA there's that pump and also one on the right side lobe to transfer fuel (I don;t know what triggers this one)

Sounds like it's a different beast to my old rides!

 

[DrFarkoff]

Even with a faulty Fuel Strip???

Is the low fuel warning coming on not a part of the fuel strip problem?

(I have the Superior Mk1 R1200GS without such foibles )

You'll get a warning light when there's about 40 or so miles range left. Sounds as if you're filling up too early!

 

[sproggy]

An '07 is a Mk1 isn't it?

I know there were a few revisions from early models but it's basically the same as an '04.

 

[DrFarkoff]

When they changed way from the Servo brakes for 2006 model year

I think that is when they did the Fuel strip and changed some body panels I think it was given the designation "MU" for model upgrade but yes still basically a fuel pump controller, gearbox seal, driveshaft and final drive eating Mk 1 dose!

An '07 is a Mk1 isn't it?

I know there were a few revisions from early models but it's basically the same as an '04.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Yup Sure is!

if it's a std R1200 there's a Really TINY pump on the left side that is run intermittently by the pump controller (what colour is yours?) Is there lots of water in your Fuel Pump Well?

If its a GSA there's that pump and also one on the right side lobe to transfer fuel (I don;t know what triggers this one)

Which the bike or the pump controller?!! This is all new lingo! Fuel Pump well? Will I find pennies in there that people have been making wishes with!!!! I'll have to look into that! It's a black Sept 2007 build.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

You can get more fuel in the tank more easily by removing the rubber collar thing that sits at the bottom of the metal filler neck. It extends downwards an inch or so and inhibits the escape of air (hence the ingress of fuel) once the fuel level reaches it. You can make a further improvement to range/fuel capacity by drilling the filler neck about 10mm below the flange - that allows you to put fuel in what was intended to be the expansion space. But use it only if you're riding the bike immediately after filling up - not if you're going to leave the bike sitting in the sun, otherwise it'll spew fuel out of the overflow/vent.

Since doing the above I've got a safe 220 mile range before filling up (with 10-15 miles range remaining reported) and that's commuting into London so not the most economical riding (averaging a reported 52mpg) - will almost certainly get worse once the school holidays are over, though, and traffic returns to normal

That mirrors my set up and MPG. It seems a lot better in the summer than the winter. It's also better on the Devon A & B roads rather than motorway and dual carriageways.

 

[kevingambrell]

In school holidays my ride to work goes from 30 mins there and 35 back to 15 mins there and 20 mins home. I also spend about £5.00 less per week.

 

[KMD]

I'll go by the two hundred mile suggestion. Get fuel at 160! Thanks.

These are the numbers I work with too as the fuel gauge on mine has never worked reliably. I re set the trip one meter at every fill and also the warning on the sat nav . Don't even bother with the fuel gauge anymore.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Sounds like me on all My previous bikes. That's for all the feedback gang.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

That should read thanks not that's. I really need to proof read my posts.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Interesting. The changes I made to the seat angle have improved matters. I also noticed that my knees are slightly further apart due to the construction f the side panels on the tank. I'm looking forward to checking the docs seat to see if that improves matters further. I've long legs. Very long legs and sitting on the 1150 earlier as a comparison, the ergonomics suit my body bette than the 1200 as matters currently stand. My hips don't hurt like an old mans though after my ride earlier. No offence to anyone who is old or who has bad hips. Indeedd my dad is 66 and the poor guy is still getting over his fifth or sixth hop op. I've lost count.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Need to look for the "edit" Button!

That should read thanks not that's. I really need to proof read my posts.

 

[Bendy toy]

I regularly got 350 miles from and 35 litres into my GSA tank, but its become a hassle since the fuel strip failed.

According to a long thread on ADVRider, the fuel strip controls the fuel pump output. At high levels (lets say >75%) the pump runs at a low duty cycle enough to feed the injectors but the return flow is low. At low fuel levels the pump runs harder and flows enough return fuel to drive the ejector pump (BMW speak = Sucking Jet Pump = SJP) to lift fuel from the tank RHS.

The fuel strip usually fails indicating empty so the pump runs hard all of the time.

My experience with an alternative fuel level gauge supports the ADVR story.

Depending on use, my bike will run dry (totally dry) from anywhere between 270 and 350 miles. None consistent mileage with a crummy fuel gauge has become a pain in the arse. Long runs can't use the full tank and too many short runs risk running dry.

I fitted my own fuel gauge which works though the running out of fuel point has not been consistent. To make space I removed the broken fuel strip. On the very first tankful with the new gauge, I ran out of fuel with about 8 litres remaining in the tank. Obviously I badly fitted the ejector pump pipes, but they checked out ok. However the bike also tends to stutter when fuel levels are getting low. Nothing much but it makes me suspicious. Even when I tipped the bike over to empty the right tank it continued to be "not right". Filling the tank sorted the not ideal running.

It looks like I have:
(1) A weak petrol pump that can't properly feed the engine or lift fuel from the RHS tank.
or
(2) its good but isn't being powered up properly. If a pump controller bypass solve the issues (runs the pump at full blast) will suggest what's going on.

The same long thread on ADVR suggest that most fuel problems are pump related. If my fuel pump is shot, the culprit could be the useless fuel strip that's been running the pump to run at full blast for at least the last 15K miles.

 

[mrpuncture]

Crumbs. Sounds a lot more complicated than my R65....you turn the fuel tap on, open the choke then wait until the bings start to weep petrol all over your boot
So essentially you're saying that if this "fuel strip" thing fails (assuming you don't get a warning? ) then the fuel economy suffers as it's over pumping?

 

[Pukmeister]

So essentially you're saying that if this "fuel strip" thing fails (assuming you don't get a warning? ) then the fuel economy suffers as it's over pumping?

No, fuel economy won't suffer. Any excess pump output is returned to the tank by the pressure regulator (relief valve). The fuel pump will always produce excessive flow compared to the rate of the fuel injectors, thats why the pressure regulator is fitted.

 

[mrpuncture]

Taking on board the advice, ran her to 150 miles on the tank (about 80 miles of which was blatting around country roads!) then went to fill up, and paid attention to the litres going in.....so despite fairly hard running, I only put in 14 litres....so as you say on here it's just the fuel gauge being shite.....shows full for the 1st 90 miles, then presumably practically empty for the next 110 or so!
Glad I read this and tried it out, lot more time in the saddle for me now!

 

[Bendy toy]

The fuel strip sits higher than the floats so will give a more appropriate reading until it F's up again. The BMW float gauge reads full for at least 50% of the tank capacity.

I fitted my sliding float gauge as high as possible but it still reads 100% for the first 100 miles. Without the tank being designed to take such a gauge its not possible to put it any higher. But I do get a reasonable coverage when really needed - as the tank reaches empty.