I am looking for a decent match for the rocker covers and wheels. This is the grey rather than silver as on 2004-2007. I have done a search which came up with Hyundai wheat silver (1996). Can't find this, anyone have any other suggestions, or know of a source for this colour?
2008/2009 year wheel paint
- Thread starter seahorse
- Start date
Miff, thanks for that. I am aware of those guys but they are not cheap. Worth it if you want an exact match or need a fair bit of paint. I just want to touch in some areas with corrosion bubbling up, using a rattle can for not very much money. I probably have Yorkshire blood in me.
My local car parts shop mixes paint. They can do pretty much any colour you want. Maybe there's somewhere in your area that can do the same.
www.fastlaneautoshop.co.uk
www.fastlaneautoshop.co.uk
Bendy toy
Registered user
Corrosion on my engine front cover just kept creeping under the paint. I sanded it back and painted but it still returned.
My wheels were showing the same signs so I had them dipped for £14 each and powder coated for £25 each. I also had to get new wheel bearings for the front but really not a huge cost.
If you don't like powder coat, etch primer and paint does a good job.
If dipping is too much hassle (it can be) use a paint stripper and brass wire brush. Jet wash the last crud away but be careful where the debris goes to.
My wheels were showing the same signs so I had them dipped for £14 each and powder coated for £25 each. I also had to get new wheel bearings for the front but really not a huge cost.
If you don't like powder coat, etch primer and paint does a good job.
If dipping is too much hassle (it can be) use a paint stripper and brass wire brush. Jet wash the last crud away but be careful where the debris goes to.
Touching up corroded parts will only mask the problem. I'm taking my spoked wheels to a custom wheel builder in 10 days, who will strip them bare, zinc coat and apply a 30% satin black powder coat to wheels, hubs & spokes. It won't be cheap, but (a) they'll look magnificent & (b) they'll be protected for years to come
Bendy toy
Registered user
Keith - Who is doing the job?
The issue that is that spokes move relative to the rim and hub so any coating will degrade at that point. Also any coating into the holes will affect how the spokes and nipples fit leading to the holes having to be cleaned out. Resulting bare metal = more corrosion problems.
I have thought seriously about having my wire wheels stripped, coated and rebuilt but the metal protection issues where rim and hub meet spokes won't go away. I now intend to use an aluminium-safe paint stripper to clean off all old paint, then clean any metal oxides. Finally mask off the spokes and hopefully spoke nipples and repaint the hub. Paint will get into the gaps but its generally more flexible than powder coat.
It will be hugely cheaper than a strip, refinish, rebuild so if its unsuccessful Ive not forked out for nothing.
BTW, aluminium benefits from an etch primer. It doesn't benefit from a zinc coating if you can get it to stick.
The issue that is that spokes move relative to the rim and hub so any coating will degrade at that point. Also any coating into the holes will affect how the spokes and nipples fit leading to the holes having to be cleaned out. Resulting bare metal = more corrosion problems.
I have thought seriously about having my wire wheels stripped, coated and rebuilt but the metal protection issues where rim and hub meet spokes won't go away. I now intend to use an aluminium-safe paint stripper to clean off all old paint, then clean any metal oxides. Finally mask off the spokes and hopefully spoke nipples and repaint the hub. Paint will get into the gaps but its generally more flexible than powder coat.
It will be hugely cheaper than a strip, refinish, rebuild so if its unsuccessful Ive not forked out for nothing.
BTW, aluminium benefits from an etch primer. It doesn't benefit from a zinc coating if you can get it to stick.
The chap is local to me and owns a custom bike / wheel building business. I've spoken to him about the specific wheel type etc, and he says he can do the job.
If it transpires that your comments above are reciprocated by the chap, then it'll be just wheels & hubs that are PC'd, and the spokes will just get a serious clean, coat & polish
If it transpires that your comments above are reciprocated by the chap, then it'll be just wheels & hubs that are PC'd, and the spokes will just get a serious clean, coat & polish
Bendy toy
Registered user
My wheels are in the garage loft with bubbling paint. Alloys on the bike look great in gloss black. They all weigh the same so bike feels unchanged.
My brother's 08 GSA has stood unused for a few months. Wheel hubs and FD case are in a very poor state. Yes, it was well washed and ACF coated.
His FD is mechanically good so the case will have to be paint stripped, etch primed and painted. At least new paint can cross the joint boundary unlike the original finish.
Talking to my powder coaters I don't see how they can reliably finish the wheel hubs and not clog the spoke holes. If they cover the holes (apart from the labour costs) the hub will hardly be be any better protected than bare metal. Problems are caused by electrolytic action between stainless spokes and aluminium hub. Not to mention salt spray trapped in impossible to clean crevices.
The brake calipers are anodised and they seem to have remained untouched by salt etc. Maybe having the hubs anodised is the best option. Also ask the wheel builder to use a high solids copper paste in all spoke holes.
My brother's 08 GSA has stood unused for a few months. Wheel hubs and FD case are in a very poor state. Yes, it was well washed and ACF coated.
His FD is mechanically good so the case will have to be paint stripped, etch primed and painted. At least new paint can cross the joint boundary unlike the original finish.
Talking to my powder coaters I don't see how they can reliably finish the wheel hubs and not clog the spoke holes. If they cover the holes (apart from the labour costs) the hub will hardly be be any better protected than bare metal. Problems are caused by electrolytic action between stainless spokes and aluminium hub. Not to mention salt spray trapped in impossible to clean crevices.
The brake calipers are anodised and they seem to have remained untouched by salt etc. Maybe having the hubs anodised is the best option. Also ask the wheel builder to use a high solids copper paste in all spoke holes.
Bendy toy
Registered user
I've found chain saw oil is a great for anti corrosion. After a year on the shed windowsill a piece of bright steel was unmarked under the oil layer. Bare metal was pitted and where oil was wiped off and rubbed apparently clean was only minimal corrosion.
The oil does polymerise into a sticky varnish so has to be cleaned off every 3 months and retreated. But it would be great for spoke holes in the hub.
I mix it with white spirit and use a trigger spray bottle.
Drip it neat into spoke holes.
I've not tried boiled linseed oil.
The oil does polymerise into a sticky varnish so has to be cleaned off every 3 months and retreated. But it would be great for spoke holes in the hub.
I mix it with white spirit and use a trigger spray bottle.
Drip it neat into spoke holes.
I've not tried boiled linseed oil.
I'll be sure to take the appropriate notation with me Bendy, and will discuss with the chap in detail; I'll feedback on this thread once I've seen him on 27th Sept
Just answering my own question here! The 08/09 GS wheel colour is 957 magnesium metallic, which is one of the body colours for the 08/09 GSA.
I would go for a hard anodised finish if possible on Alloy parts.
The surface layer is only a few microns thick but is rock hard (typically 10,000 times harder than the parent Alloy) and very corrosion resistant.
Failing that, a self-etch prime and then epoxy paint finish in two-pack.
Corrosion could get hold beneath powder coating at the spoke holes, I wouldn't trust it to last.
The surface layer is only a few microns thick but is rock hard (typically 10,000 times harder than the parent Alloy) and very corrosion resistant.
Failing that, a self-etch prime and then epoxy paint finish in two-pack.
Corrosion could get hold beneath powder coating at the spoke holes, I wouldn't trust it to last.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Powder will also build up into the spoke/nipple holes so will have to be either masked off or cleaned out defeating the object of using the service.
Hard anodising is probably the best option. Also get the rim done, because the spokes seize into the rim. My wheel builder said spokes often have to be cut and knocked out due to electrolytic corrosion of the aluminium.
If I can get into all nooks & crannies, my hubs are going to be paint stripped, etch primed and painted without stripping the wheel. I might get it Biostrip dipped if it wont accelerate aluminium/stainless corrosion. After painting, a marine anti corrosion product or even linseed oil in the spoke holes might work. That wont do anything for rim/spoke corrosion, so long term it will have to be stripped and anodised, probably with new spokes.
Hard anodising is probably the best option. Also get the rim done, because the spokes seize into the rim. My wheel builder said spokes often have to be cut and knocked out due to electrolytic corrosion of the aluminium.
If I can get into all nooks & crannies, my hubs are going to be paint stripped, etch primed and painted without stripping the wheel. I might get it Biostrip dipped if it wont accelerate aluminium/stainless corrosion. After painting, a marine anti corrosion product or even linseed oil in the spoke holes might work. That wont do anything for rim/spoke corrosion, so long term it will have to be stripped and anodised, probably with new spokes.
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