2010 r1200 gsa clutch change

[Baza 07]

Quick update.
I have now replaced my clutch, the clutch needed replacing due to a oil leak from a seal.
If you have the time, label cables, have the right tools and take ALOT OF PICTURES when dismantling your bike, this is not a difficult job.
Thanks to all who replied to this post.

Top job Wayne,how long did it take you

 

[davegs]

The best *special tool* for this job is Steptoe of this parish.

 

[dashfixer]

I've just done this job as I had a rattle from the gearbox/clutch in neutral. I was worried that the input shaft damper was failing so pulled the back end off and had a look inside the gearbox once it was off. There was nothing wrong at all inside the box, in fact it looked like it had just come out the factory. I did notice that although there was still plenty of friction material on the clutch plate, even at 90k miles, there was some slack between the clutch plate and input shaft splines. When I checked the new plate it was nice and tight so I'm assuming that the rattle was the clutch to gearbox splines.

Tools wise I made a clutch centering tool, a clutch lock up tool and a stand for the gearbox to make opening it up easier.

If anyone is thinking of doing this job it's pretty straight forward. The only problem I had was the top R/H frame M10 bolt sheared as it was corroded solid into the engine block. I drilled out the remains and helicoiled a new thread, the problem there was having to take the R/H cylinder head off to get clearance for the drill.

Follow the advice on here regarding labels and photos. I took the drive shaft out completely and put it back in after joining the frame to the engine, and I left the rear wheel, swinging arm and rear shock on. I have a bmw workshop manual on disc and I followed that.

I'm happy to lend out the tools if anyone needs them and lives fairly close to Worcestershire.