A few new noises from my new to me 1150

[Comfy Old Boots]

Instead of creating a new thread, I'll throw my questions in here. Less likely to annoy people.

The fast idle cable. What's the best way to reduce the slack on that? I moved the rubber gaitor from the handle bar end but it's either seized solid or the adjuster is at the bowden box end?

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Well, leaving aside the dunk dunk when the clutch is engaged and leaving aside the tired rear shock, Grainne is a cracker!

 

[sykospain]

Few noises on my new-to-me R1150R

As others have said, a very pretty example of a fine bike.
Risking being accused of harping on again re my current topic that's affecting my own 2004 33K miles Rockster, I'd be checking the clutch splines for that noise problem if i were you.
Get down on your knees and pull off the starter, first removing the Torx screw that secures the plastic cover.
No need to remove the cables, just undo the two bolts - the hidden one underneath means you blunt your forehead on the footpeg, so beware.. Tap the starter body to loosen the stuck little guide pin that rusts up. You can see the hole at 8 o'clock on the starter's outer rim. Maybe a squirt of WD 40 and a cup'o'tea while it soaks.

Then put the bike in first, tape back the clutch lever to the h/bar and get a big screwdriver so you can turn the clutch assembly to see how much play there is.

If it's more than about 3 to 4 mm of radial slop, get a couple of days free and a bike lift so you can tear down the machine to do this gearbox input splines lube and clutch friction plate replace job:-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kD85yvKtVnE&list=UUhrxsvjf2N7uUr-XQ_9Yi7A

Best o' luck !

AL in s.e. Spain

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Hi syko, I'll do just that when I'm putting the bevel box on. To be honest, I can live with the noise providing it's not imminently going to break down, have you had similar symptoms? Did you do the work you mentioned? If so did it cure the problem?

 

[sykospain]

Yes, yes and yes to all those my friend.
And whilst it's in the "somebody's thrown a hand grenade under it" state, best also refill the clutch hydraulics with brand new DOT4 and whilst you're at it, check your clutch slave cylinder hidden on the back of the gearbox behind the transverse bar; another e.g. of BMW's parsimony. Designed for an upmarket pushbike, the tiny bearing contained in the under-specc'ed unit goes west for fun, particularly if you ever stand at a light or a turn-across waiting with your bike in 1st and the clutch held in. That miniature bearing is spinning on the end of the clutch actuation rod constantly at engine revs., something it was never designed to do for any extended period. Dry clutches must be either in or out at any one time - nothing inbetween. i.e. always just grab the lever, snick into a gear and immediately feed out smartly as you match the revs.
NEVER SLIP IT ! You canwith a wet Jap clutch, never with a dry....
Even your new replacement slave, best bought from Beemer Boneyard, not BMW, will need careful application by a toothpick of some nice blobs of bearing grease ferkled fiddlingly into the balls.
Happy wrenching !
AL in s.e. Spain

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Interesting. I'll live with it for the moment. I've nowhere to do a clutch and the taking apart and reassembly of the bike looks a lot of work. Handy if I had time and a garage to do it in. Thanks for the heads up on what the noise it though!