A little tweak

Timbo

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Picked up my GS on Saturday (dropped it on Sunday) and love it to bits but...

the clutch/brake levers are not in the right place and
the brake pedal is too far down

The manual advises not to rotate the brake and clutch levers around the bar for fear of getting air in the system. Is this so, and if so is such a minor tweak a workshop job?

I'm sure the brake pedal is adjustable - can someone point me in the direction of documentation or a thread that explains what to do.

TIA

Timbo
 
Didn't you get the owner handbook with it?? If not, why not?

The handlebar controls tend to be "pegged" to the handlebars to prevent tampering. Probably something to do with TUV regs. You can shave the little pegs off if you want but you should make doubly sure that the controls are done up securely. Or drill another hole to give a different angle.

As for the foot brake. Different model-don't know.
 
Hi Timbo
Congrats on your GS
Can't you just move the bars ? on mine it's impossible to move the levers because of the rubber bracket thingies
I've got one of those wunderlich brake pedal thingies which raises
the pedal a bit.
I suppose you'll be after some crash bars see Simons H+B Info

Gates
 
Bit confused...

...when I picked up my Adventure, I rotated the levers on the bars to align them correctly with my riding position, as I've done on every bike I've owned. No problems, no evidence of locating pegs, interference from rubber mounts, air bubbles or anything else. 16k miles later they're still fine.

MikeO:)
 
Timbo said:

I'm sure the brake pedal is adjustable - can someone point me in the direction of documentation or a thread that explains what to do.

Timbo:
There is a degree of adjustment available for the rear brake pedal. The pedal is like a see-saw with the fulcrum in the middle (roughly). The rear of the pedal has a pushrod mechanism that activates the brake (2). To raise the front end of the pedal, you need to lower the back-end by lengthening this "push-rod" (it's actually a metal pin with a screw thread on one end and a nut for adjustment (1). The other end disappers into the rubber bellows.

Release the nut (1). Now unscrew the pushrod (2) so that you effectively lengthen the pushrod/pin . . . make sure you leave enough threads in the brake pedal. Re-tighten the locking nut (1).
You can now adjust the bolt (A) that activates the brake light.

Buying the brake pedal extender platform (Wunderlich, from SPC) also helps. It not only raises the pedal height a few millimetres, it makes the pedal bigger and wider and easier to use.

If you still can't get enough adjustment, then you can remove the pushrod entirely by undoing the circlip in the ball joint into which the pin is screwed, unscrew the pin and remove entirely. You can then replace the pin with something longer . . . you'll have to make something up by getting a bolt (for example) and cutting off the head.

BTW what boots are you wearing? The pedals can appear to be a bit of a stretch with sports/race boots on but much easier with thicker soled winter boots or MX boots.

As for the position of the clutch/brake levers . . . I'm not sure where you want them, but you can rotate the whole handlebar assembly quite simply by unbolting the for bolts in the centre.
 
Give that man a :clap! Simon, you're a star.

Re the brake/clutch they are so far out if I rotate the bars I think I may spoil the position altogether. There seems to be some confusion about whether I can rotate the whole lever assembly in isolation of the bars. Any ideas?
 
Timbo:
You can theoretically rotate the individual grip and lever assemblies, but BMW advise that the clamp gap should line up with a punchmark on the bar ends. It's to make sure the brake and clutch fluid reservoirs are as horizontal as they can be and that cables aren't stretched or kinked - the whole assembly is one unit.
What's your problem with the position? There might be other solutions. You can raise the bars using a Touratech riser (25mm or 35mm) and then rotate them. Better still, Wunderlich do an extension that doesn't really raise the bars but brings them closer to you. Either possibility will change your position relative to the bars. They might work.
Simon
 
Moving Bars Closer

Where can I get that Wunderlich extension ? went to the Wunderlich website but my german is not good enough to find the item , its for a r1100gs and find that generally the position is good until I get to fullish lock.

Nick
 
Gauloises,
the switchgear/lever assembly rotates on the rubber mounted part of the bars. To be honest, it was a long time ago (March), but it seemed very simple, straightforward & logical to me at the time, so I can't remember any great detail - perhaps I'm having a senior moment.....

MikeO:)
 
Re: Moving Bars Closer

Nicholas said:
went to the Wunderlich website but my german is not good enough to find the item

From the "Online Shop", select the model 850/110/1150 GS. The bit being talked about is the "Lenkererhöhung".

I hope this helps.
 
Re: Moving Bars Closer

Nicholas said:
Where can I get that Wunderlich extension ? went to the Wunderlich website but my german is not good enough to find the item

The item in question is available mail order direct from Wunderlich at http://www.wunderlich.de following Dave's directions above or you can buy/order through SPC on 01420 588704 and speak to Miles Madden. They're available in black or polished alloy and look very well made - Richwi and City Slicker have both got them fitted and like them. But, they're not cheap! About £120.
 

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Ended up rotating the bars and all is fine. Brake pedal is better but I think I'll work on the flexibility of my ankle rather than shelling out £120, or maybe I could fit a block of wood...
 
The clutch and brake lever can be 'rotated' on the bars, it means undoing the switchgear to get to the clamp that holds the levers.

I did this today 'cos I wanted to move my bars up and forward slightly, it was fairly straight forward, if a little 'fiddley'.... :)
 


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