Adjusting rear shock pre-poad .... or not!

[Bobbin-Man]

The adjusting knob on my '06 GS will not rotate either way other than a very small movement. Is it correct to assume that the knob/shaft is simply a worm gear that in turn rotates an adjustable spring cap, which in my case is probably seized solid? If this is so I guess removing the unit and freeing everything is about as much service I can give it without specialist knowledge and tools?

And ...... the bikes done 49,000 miles and although I have a fully stamped service book I am not aware that either shock has ever been serviced or replaced. Is servicing the o/e shocks viable? Any recommendations for where to have it done? There's a "choppiness" to the ride that I'm becoming convinced is being exaggerated by tired shocks. Unfortunately I'm certainly not in a position to be able to splash out on a pair of Ohlins!

Stu.

 

[Pukmeister]

In a nutshell:

1) Yes, they aren't end-user serviceable.
2) I would recommend a set of Wilbers replacement shocks for road use, had them on my last 1200 and they were superb.
3) I believe that MCT in Stowmarket can rebuild the OE BMW shocks, and its worth asking John Gaskell at Revs Racing in Halesowen, West Midlands if they do rebuilds.

 

[Wapping]

At 49k your suspension is, shall we say, 'Previously enjoyed'.

I am not sure how serviceable the original suspension is, but no doubt there are threads on it.

Either way, why jump straight to Ohlins? As you seem to have been happy with BMW's own brand. Why not find out the price of replacing like with like or looking for a reasonable second hand set in a reasonable state?

If that does not suit, maybe have a look at the other non-Ohlins alternatives first? There are lots, all suggested here on UKGSer, along with several that come up for sale second hand.

You do not need to dive straight in the deep end of brand new Ohlins. That's for sure.

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

I am probably wrong here but I always thought the preloaded adjustment was hydraulic. If it's broken already then taking it apart won't make it any worse.

 

[Spike]

I had my rear shoch fully serviced at MCT, they can replace springs too to specified weights if you really want to go down that route, my rear shock cost £89 I think give or take a few quid to srvice and a job well done too.

Might be worth a phone call to them, they also do a service while you wait I think.

spike

 

[Bobbin-Man]

Thanks for the advice

Before resorting to removing the shock, last night I worked hard to free the pre-load adjuster - gradually working at it I've gained a reasonable range of movement which has enabled me to increase the pre-load a little - still bloody stiff though! The movement I have now makes me think it is a mechanical adjuster rather than hydraulic, although I could be wrong, but I think I've found the fully anit-clockwise position. A little more work needed to find the full clockwise position though. On my commute this morning I've found a definite improvement with less chopiness - I did actually back it off a little half way to work.

I still need either a new unit or an overhaul, but if I can get the adjuster free enough, at least I can set the bike up something like the book recommended settings or maybe a little more pre-load if that helps for now. Can anyone tell me how many rotations there are of the knob from full anti to full clockwise position?

Stu.

 

[1/3 World]

Thanks for the advice

Before resorting to removing the shock, last night I worked hard to free the pre-load adjuster - gradually working at it I've gained a reasonable range of movement which has enabled me to increase the pre-load a little - still bloody stiff though! The movement I have now makes me think it is a mechanical adjuster rather than hydraulic, although I could be wrong, but I think I've found the fully anit-clockwise position. A little more work needed to find the full clockwise position though. On my commute this morning I've found a definite improvement with less chopiness - I did actually back it off a little half way to work.

I still need either a new unit or an overhaul, but if I can get the adjuster free enough, at least I can set the bike up something like the book recommended settings or maybe a little more pre-load if that helps for now. Can anyone tell me how many rotations there are of the knob from full anti to full clockwise position?

Stu.

About 42 clicks on my 2006.

 

[Bobbin-Man]

There's clicks! Can't feel any on mine but it is VERY stiff!

Stu.

 

[Pukmeister]

The early R1200 GS with WP shocks didn't have clicks on the preload, they were continually adjustable. I believe the changeover around 2006 gave different shocks with a larger preload adjusting knob for easier adjustment by weak handed piss stained pensioners.

 

[Rasher]

At that mileage I would imagine it is well tired, I too would suggest MCT for an honest appraisal of what can be done.

If you can't stretch to Ohlins Money consider a Wilburs, either from MCT (Who I would recommend from experience) but also Revs seem to have a great name as well.

I would be surprised if you can't get the entry level Wilburs for less than a new BMW unit (and it will be significantly better quality and fully rebuildable - about £80 for a service every 20k to keep it fresh)

 

[1/3 World]

There's clicks! Can't feel any on mine but it is VERY stiff!

Stu.

If you listen carefully there should be a clicking sound when winding the pre load in and out, I counted about 42 clicks on my GSA and set the pre load at about half of that as a default setting.