advice needed to remove stuck spark plugs

[roddy]

HI folks

The title says it really, I have a twin spark GSA, and I was wanting to check the condition of the plugs, but they feel siezed in the heads, managed to break the screwdriver that comes with the bike when using the supplied plug spanner.

what's the best way to remove them so I can torque/lube them up correctly. I'm reluctant to het too heavy handed in case I bugger something up.

cheers

 

[littleredrooster]

The supplied tool is feck-all use. It is more likely to snap the top off the plug. You need a proper plug socket and ratchet.

 

[Steptoe]

Thats why you should remove and grease the plugs at the 6K mile service. Although it doesn't suggest doing it in the manuals.

I get quite a few plugs stuck. It's what i would expect on a bike that may be a few years old and done less than 12K miles with the full BMW main dealer service history, Which means the plugs haven't been touched. But thats OK, the bike has a main dealer service history.

 

[roddy]

Thats why you should remove and grease the plugs at the 6K mile service. Although it doesn't suggest doing it in the manuals.

Thats what I'm trying to do, as the 6k service isn't recorded, so I thought best to do it

These plugs feel there in far more than the 20-30 Nm of torque there meant to be in by, so is it just brute force with the engine upto temperature or is there another trick I could try once I get a proper plug tool that'll reach down the plug tunnel and any suggestions on where to get one.

cheers

 

[gavin@iow]

I had to have a standard long reach socket turned down, to fit down the spark plug tunnel. I've just changed my plugs for Denso IXU24's, the bike's a 12GS, 2 years old, 9000 miles, but the plugs came out quite easily.

 

[JohnC]

Thats what I'm trying to do, as the 6k service isn't recorded, so I thought best to do it

These plugs feel there in far more than the 20-30 Nm of torque there meant to be in by, so is it just brute force with the engine upto temperature or is there another trick I could try once I get a proper plug tool that'll reach down the plug tunnel and any suggestions on where to get one.

cheers

No no m8, take them out cold I'd say

I'd take it back to MC roddy, surely they should have serviced the bike before you bought it?

 

[Steptoe]

I'd take it back to MC roddy, surely they should have serviced the bike before you bought it?

Thats what i'm saying - it's not a service item until 12K, not even an annual procedure. So even with a main dealer full service history, the plugs can still be stuck in place.

 

[roddy]

I know what your saying Steptoe as I check the service procedure, so they wouldn't have been touched during the 6K (another reason to get the buggers out and do the job properly) or the annual MC did before I picked the bike up, since it's only done 8K we're a while off the 12K service which I had every intention of doing myself

So steptoe what do you do in this situation you must have seen a few stuck plugs in your time ?

I may phone MC and ask them to loosen them off for me, then if they break something it's there fault.

 

[Steptoe]

So steptoe what do you do in this situation you must have seen a few stuck plugs in your time ?

Good plug spanner.

Only had to take the head off one bike, after the plug snapped off.

When they've been in place for a long time, the "flats" get very corroded, and can easily round off .

 

[gavin@iow]

Thats why you should remove and grease the plugs at the 6K mile service. Although it doesn't suggest doing it in the manuals.

If you use a thread lubricant, you shouldn't use the recommended torque tightening value. Torque values are for dry tightening only.

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Get a set up that allows you to avoid side-thrust - you have to support the socket while you pull the socket wrench handle. Even better to have a tommy bar long enough to have the pivot / plug in the centre & let you grip both ends and exert pure torque.

 

[Steptoe]

If you use a thread lubricant, you shouldn't use the recommended torque tightening value. Torque values are for dry tightening only.

I've never ever used a torque wrench to tighten spark plugs - nearly 30 years and god knows how many thousands of spark plugs later, never had any problems.

 

[roddy]

got them.

I made up a decent plug spanner using the supplied plug spanner, I heated the end you would put the driver blade through and got a 1/4' drive socket to fit inside the tube, I let this cool down then persueded a 19mm 3/8' drive socket over the whole lot, eh voila one plug spanner that I can fit a decent wrench on too. and I shouldn't be able to excert too much force as the 19mm socket which is just a friction fit would skid hopefully preventing any damage to the cylinder heads

once this was done they came out without to much hassle. Glad I did as the bike appears to be running a bit lean. it did have a full Remus system on it which I got the dealer to swop for the original setup, so don't know if they did the fuse5 thing, I'll do this then check them again, as this bike doesn't have a CCP (dealer states all twin plugs don't, not too sure about that) I may have to start reading up on the steptoe link

should have used the right tool in the first place, lesson learned.

cheers for the advice guys

 

[JohnC]

Thats what i'm saying - it's not a service item until 12K, not even an annual procedure. So even with a main dealer full service history, the plugs can still be stuck in place.

Of course, thought the mileage was higher on Roddys bike.

Glad you got it sorted anyway