Advice on border crossings

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iancass

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Okay - I'm leaving on 1st Nov for Morocco->WS->Mauritainia->Senegal & Back. I'm going solo as I can't find anyone mad enough to accompany me (its the route and the time - not me honest!). I'm asking for:
- Advice on where to make the border crossings (WS-> Mauri & Mauir->Senegal) and how to handle them
- Advice on mobile coverage through Western Sahara and Mauri. Having looked at the GSMWorld maps (showing zero coverage in WS and v limited in Mauri) I'm feeling the need for a Sat Phone.

And I apologise in advance. There will be more stupid Q's...

Oh! - and if anyone is interested in joining me :-)

Ian
 
Sure you can't put it off till end of the year.
Plenty of folk going down to dakar then (me for one).
Safety in numbers and all that.
 
It should be a great trip so just have a ball.

If you're using the tarmac then it's straightforward.

If you haven't got them already get two Mauritanian visas in Rabat for going and returning. Cheaper there and last year they were issued within 24hrs.

Morocco/Mauritania. Should be no problem but it can be slow so be patient and have a sunhat. Between Morocco and Mauritania is rough piste - it goes through a minefield - it's easy to follow but if you are at all concerned there are plenty of guides there. Negotiate price in advance.

Mauritania/Senegal

Avoid Rosso like the plague. It is corruption personified. Just before you get in to Rosso there is a piste heading westwards. It's easy and beautiful particularly if you like birds. The crossing at Djama is so much easier and laid back.

Don't pay any money to anybody although inevitably you will end up paying something.

Roads are straighforward and the Michelin map of Northwest Africa is fine unless you want to do serious offroad stuff.

PM or ring me (01434 674295) if you want anything else.:thumb

Okay - I'm leaving on 1st Nov for Morocco->WS->Mauritainia->Senegal & Back. I'm going solo as I can't find anyone mad enough to accompany me (its the route and the time - not me honest!). I'm asking for:
- Advice on where to make the border crossings (WS-> Mauri & Mauir->Senegal) and how to handle them
- Advice on mobile coverage through Western Sahara and Mauri. Having looked at the GSMWorld maps (showing zero coverage in WS and v limited in Mauri) I'm feeling the need for a Sat Phone.

And I apologise in advance. There will be more stupid Q's...

Oh! - and if anyone is interested in joining me :-)

Ian
 
Once you've crossed at Diama (agreed with definitely NOT going through Rosso!) you may well have to accept an escort inside Senegal....they certainly insist on it for groups but I don't know if they bother for solo motocycles.

After the crossing, go to the Zebrabar.....fantastic place to chill for a day or two, it's like a little paradise Island after the Saharan crossing....several freezers loaded with beer, it runs on a trust basis...you take a beer, add a tick to the list and settle up before you leave......there's always food on and there's welding/mechanical assistance available as well..

It's run by Ursula and Martin, a German couple, and there's plenty of camping space or they have a good few little straw thatched huts with showers if you want to get properly cleaned up and have a little (comparative) luxury.

Zebrabar website


PS take Martin's phone number..he has been known to drive long distances in the big old Zil camper thing they have (or had:nenau) to pull people out of the desert :thumb2
 
Sure you can't put it off till end of the year.
Plenty of folk going down to dakar then (me for one).
Safety in numbers and all that.

Afraid not. I'll not be able to get the time in 2010 and I must be home for Christmas. So it's very tight as it is leaving 1st Nov.

I
 
It should be a great trip so just have a ball.

If you're using the tarmac then it's straightforward.

I intend to stick to tarmac for most of the journey but am okay with a little rough stuff and the bike will handle it (990 Adventure). I'm also looking forward to some beach riding. Any suggestions on which stretches to do this would be welcomed.

I
 
Petcul,

Is the turn off for Diama easy to spot -Any features to look out for?

Also do you have any sense of the mobile phone coverage on the tarmac route?

Ian
 
Petcul,

Is the turn off for Diama easy to spot -Any features to look out for?

Also do you have any sense of the mobile phone coverage on the tarmac route?

Ian


No, it's a PITA to spot, and even when on it, you'll think you've gone wrong for a good few miles.....

It's just before a petrol station on the right hand side about 4 miles north of Rosso.....though don't rely on that guestimation :blast

IIRC, there's a second petrol station on the left hand side a short way beyond.

The track(s) go off inbetween some little shanty shacks and wiggle their way through some fields before you pick up the main track.....the best way of knowing for sure is to look over the edge after a few miles and make sure that you're on the dge of the dyke.

There are some big dips and humps, plus some nasty hidden sleeping policemen ditches, and there are half a dozen or more police shacks and barriers as well....you'll be stopped in daylight and you'll need a fiche for each one, but after dusk they retreat into their little huts and cluster around the B&W Tv's run off car batteries...you may still get challenged though.

Ideally, you want to be on that track in the morning, as towards dusk it turns into bitey insect hell, and you need to allow a couple of hours to get through the border and then another two to get from there to the Zebrabar.

I nearly got taken out by an extremely large and very angry wild boar and her two piglets along that track....came charging out of the reeds to the left and went across barely feet in front of me....this thing must have been 30 stone or more, unbelievably big and scary pointy tusks :D

Also make damn sure that anything that's loose is tightened down and check the bike over before, during and after that section...80 miles of washboard shakes fillings out of teeth, let alone nuts off bolts.

Stick everything you possibly can up with a loctite before you go anyway, but if it's loose to start off with on that track, the chances are you won't have it with you by the end :blast

Phone coverage is great all the way down to the Mori border, then gets patchy for several hundred miles and non-existent for the Western Sahara classic route...make sure you speak to your phone providor before you go as well....several phones in our party were cut off because they didnt know they'd be used in West Africa.

On the tarmac route, there are lots of trucks and cat-cats (4x4's) so you shouldn't have a major problem if something goes wrong.


Try and give as little away as possible BTW.....so many people using those routes over the years bunging out money and tshirts and phones and stuff has caused a begging/expectation culture and adding to it only keeps that alive...with 6 or more police checkpoints on the way down the Dakhla and Nouadhibou peninsulas and the same on the way back up them for example, it could cost you an absolute fortune if you start giving stuff away

Having said that, if you've got an old mobile phone and charger that you can take to give out as an emergency measure, it'll go down as well as money.
 
Think Fanum has covered all the points extremely well.

With regard to mobiles if you are a pay as you talk customer the chances are you won't talk or text much. Arrangements between UK providers and other countries outside of Europe are not great. The best solution I'm told is to buy a month sim contract for the duration of your trip.

You can buy bike insurance (for what it is worth!!!) at the Morocco, Mori and Senegal borders.
 
Help re border crossing to Mauritainia

Hi all. Ian's brother here Just posting for Ian - currently in Rabat. Embassy not open till Monday. Just asked me to post question if anyone knows whether he can get visa at Mauritainian border. Doesn't want to go all the way there to be sent back to Rabat but doesn't want to wait till Monday for visa if can get it at border! Any posts would be appreciated.
 
Hi all. Ian's brother here Just posting for Ian - currently in Rabat. Embassy not open till Monday. Just asked me to post question if anyone knows whether he can get visa at Mauritainian border. Doesn't want to go all the way there to be sent back to Rabat but doesn't want to wait till Monday for visa if can get it at border! Any posts would be appreciated.

No guarantees of getting a visa at the border, but unless its possible (is that Irish enough for you? :D)

Numerous reports of people successfully getting the transit visa at the border, but then again the odd report of people being refused and sent back to Rabat, its very much a gamble I'm afraid. :blast
 
Hi all. Ian's brother here Just posting for Ian - currently in Rabat. Embassy not open till Monday. Just asked me to post question if anyone knows whether he can get visa at Mauritainian border. Doesn't want to go all the way there to be sent back to Rabat but doesn't want to wait till Monday for visa if can get it at border! Any posts would be appreciated.

I don't think it's worth the risk trying for a visa at the Mauritanian border. A French friend of mine was turned down last year. I've heard more of failures than successes.
 
I don't think it's worth the risk trying for a visa at the Mauritanian border. A French friend of mine was turned down last year. I've heard more of failures than successes.

Thanks for info on border visas. A weekend in Rabat it is...
 
iancass

anyone know if this gent's trip worked out ok and whether or not there is a ride report
 
Made it to Dakar and just arrived back in Ireland on Monday. I kept a blog here: http://www.grumpyinafrica.wordpress.com/

The Mauritanian border crossing went fine once I had the Visa.

BTW there is a new road (almost finished - except for the bit that's missing) to the Damia crossing. It turns off right about 30-40 Kms before Rosso.
 


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