Aluminium grease or copperslip?

mr badger

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Asking here because I doubt I'll get much sense in the 1200 section.

I'm replacing some of my fasteners with stainless, including the ones on the front of the engine. I know that greasing is best to avoid cold welding with stainless.

An I right in thinking that aluminium grease is preferable to coppaslip for this purpose? I'm thinking that two metals (more or less) is less likely to set off galvanic corrosion.

Bit of advice on adjusting torque settings might help too.
 
I use aluminium anti-seize anywhere that steel and ali are mixed. I just stick to the listed torque values.
 
I use alumslip on stainless / alloy in the situation described, but reduce the torque by about 25% because the values were set for dry assembly, lube means you would over-tighten, easy to strip those fixings in the timing chest.

Theres some interesting reading here about torque dry or lube, it seems to back up what I suggest, ie torque to 25% less if lubed

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=t...pw.r_qf.&fp=4f80e806f8657ec4&biw=1163&bih=644
 
I've always prefered Aluminium to Copper on everything.

Not sure how grease doesn't prevent "cold welding" though?

I also wouldn't worry too much about torque values, unless using Molybdinum-based lubricant.

Al:)
 
I use copperslip.

And I don't use torques, I use the pinky/knuckle/fist and knuckles count, or for extreme tight, a fat bloke on the end of a breaker bar count.

If it feels right, it probably is right :beerjug:

You will get a totally different answer, backed up by different personal experiences and claimed qualifications from anyone you ask...A time served Rolls Royce mechanic might say one thing (because his gaffa taught him that) and a time served Kawasaki mechanic might say the opposite (for the same reason)

Unless there's a definite, quantifiable and good reason why you shouldn't use a grease (For example Red rubber grease for brake cylinder seals*) then my opinion, totally unqualified and uninformed as I am (so take this for what it cost you) is that anything will do, as long as you use common sense.

In the big scheme of things, Aluminium grease might last 2% longer at 99% extreme use but copper grease might be 1.72% better at handling the heat long term, but in the real world, unless as above, I really doubt it matters :thumb2

*Even then, you'll get into a big argument about whether red rubber grease or silicone grease is better :blast
 
Thanks all. Got both so I'll use the alu grease.

I know about the 'feel' of torquing but will need to do a couple with the torque wrench as I'm a very infrequent mechanic and will need to get the feel first.
 
Thanks all. Got both so I'll use the alu grease.

I know about the 'feel' of torquing but will need to do a couple with the torque wrench as I'm a very infrequent mechanic and will need to get the feel first.


there's your problem then.....unless you have recommended torque figures WITH grease, what are you going to do them up to?
 
Duralac.
Get it from yacht chandlers ( very expensive), or from Lotus specialists ( just expensive).

It is like fresh putty in consistency and sticks to erything it touches like the proverbial to a blanket. Ofetn referred to as 'that evil yellow sh1t'.

Paint your therads with it and the reassemble.
It is only designed to one thing: Stop galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals, especially stainless steel and aluminium.
 
I use copperslip.

And I don't use torques, I use the pinky/knuckle/fist and knuckles count, or for extreme tight, a fat bloke on the end of a breaker bar count.

If it feels right, it probably is right :beerjug:

You will get a totally different answer, backed up by different personal experiences and claimed qualifications from anyone you ask...A time served Rolls Royce mechanic might say one thing (because his gaffa taught him that) and a time served Kawasaki mechanic might say the opposite (for the same reason)

I often wonder what possesses you to offer mechanical advise :confused::blast

:D
 


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