Anyone want to remove exhaust studs

[kedrey]

Yes, got the Haynes and a friend has the Clymler also. Thanks for the advise on the spring compressor. Which one did you use and where can I buy one?

I think I ended up getting one from Motobins?? Even then it wasn't a great fit, the jaw of the compressor kept fouling on the edge of the cylinder head so I had to keep turning the head round to find a point with the most clearance. I have two sets here if you want to try and see how you get on. I don't think I'm a million miles away.
Get some spare valve collets for when you lose one!!

On the blasting front I would tend to get a cylinder head bead blasted as opposed to sand, you'll never get it all cleaned out.

 

[meintjiesj]

Kedrey, yes seems we are neighbours. I'll contact you when I've got the heads off to borrow the valve spring compressor. Will probably be second week in March after I've got the forks back on again. I was thinking the same about the collects, thye look very small.

 

[Phil Clarke]

I'd be wary of brass inserts - they may come loose as the head heats up due to differential expansion rates. Surely if you take the heads off, stick them in the oven at gas mark 10 for half an hour, the alloy head will expand more than the stud and they should then come out a treat (if you still have a bit of stud to weld onto??) I find that heating it and cooling it a few times works well - heat it up and then squirt wd40 onto the studs then heat it up again. This should break the most stubborn of corrosion. If the studs are snapped off flush drill a 3mm hole and hammer a torx bit in to extract??

If you are taking them to lindsay to get blasted and painted he's pretty handy with an oxy acetylene torch so he may be able to help...

 

[cookie]

I'd be wary of brass inserts - they may come loose as the head heats up due to differential expansion rates. Surely if you take the heads off, stick them in the oven at gas mark 10 for half an hour, the alloy head will expand more than the stud and they should then come out a treat (if you still have a bit of stud to weld onto??) I find that heating it and cooling it a few times works well - heat it up and then squirt wd40 onto the studs then heat it up again. This should break the most stubborn of corrosion. If the studs are snapped off flush drill a 3mm hole and hammer a torx bit in to extract??

If you are taking them to lindsay to get blasted and painted he's pretty handy with an oxy acetylene torch so he may be able to help...

sounds like a good plan. nothing to lose by trying.

might want to squirt some aerosol freeze spray on the studs too.

why would you want inserts? hopefully the studs will come out leaving the thread intact. if not, helicoil.

 

[LiquidLAN]

sounds like a good plan. nothing to lose by trying.

might want to squirt some aerosol freeze spray on the studs too.

why would you want inserts? hopefully the studs will come out leaving the thread intact. if not, helicoil.

I was going to suggest the same, particularly after you've headed the whole head like that.

 

[kedrey]

sounds like a good plan. nothing to lose by trying.

might want to squirt some aerosol freeze spray on the studs too.

why would you want inserts? hopefully the studs will come out leaving the thread intact. if not, helicoil.

According to the Cylinder Head Shop the whole point of the inserts is to prevent exactly this kind of thing happening in the first place. I have them and have removed my exhausts twice since getting them done and had no problems whatsoever. Money well spent in my book when you take into consideration the time required to take the heads off and the cost of engineering work etc. IMHO