BB Power Chip - Cutting the RH intake funnel ?

ferguscawley

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Just took delivery of the BB Power chip this morning. While reading through the instructions, the last page mentions (in not very good english) cutting the right-hand intake 'funnel' i.e. the bit that resides within the airbox - according to the literature, 'this is very important for more torque and power'.

I will try to scan the instruction page later on this morning and post it here.

What I want to know is :

1 Has anyone here done this ?
2 Is it recommended ?


Any advice gratefully received !. By the way, my bike is a 94 R1100 GS
Thanks

Ferg
 
Heres the document I was referring to.. (apologies for the poor quality)
 

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  • air funnelrhs.jpg
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Fergus,

What BB are saying is that by shortening the inlet length it will allow the engine to rev better (less restriction). By the way, I think they mean both sides should be done, not just the right.

There is a chance you will loose a little bit of bottom end grunt, but one of my mates has done his and he doesnt seem to miss it at all. However another mate went back to the standard length one because he did miss that little bit of bottom end grunt. Its all down to what suits you and how you ride it.

One important point, if you do take them out you will see that they are actually 2-piece. There is no real need to cut them, just pop them apart and leave off the long bit that goes into the air box. This means if you dont like it, join em back up again.

Trying to get those inlets off can be a real ball acher. Secret is to shove them back into the air box and then twist and pull. It usually all makes sense, after you have lost about 5lbs of sweat and some knuckle skin. Enjoy
 
Hi,

As Panzer suggested.

I ran for a while before cutting the tubes.
I did notice the slight drop in low down torque but IMHO it's worth it for the little bit of high end power - the descision is yours.
Agree with the cut both sides bit also. I think something got lost in the translation. It makes sense to match both sides. A mate of mine emailed BB to confirm, I'm surprised the instructions haven't been updated.

I wish you luck in "popping" the two halves apart I gave up and cut them off with a hacksaw - but maybe that's because I was knackered from getting the F***ing things off in the first place.
I think replacements are about a tenner so it's no big deal to go back.

Liberal use of WD40 makes it easier to get it all back together.
 
Thanks guys

I think I'll leave it as standard initially as I really don't want to sacrifice any low-end torque - thats one of the main reasons I bought the GS in the first place.
I reckon that curiosity will eventually get the better of me though :D . Must remember to buy some spare 'funnels' before I attempt that surgery

One other question if I may - does the chip cure that flat spot around 4500-4800 rpm ? - thats the only area in my power-curve that disappoints me.

Cheers

Ferg
 
I run my 1150GS with Y piece, std can, BBPower chip and cut tubes. With the link set as per instructions (stage 2 I think) all seemed ok with good improvement throughout range especially mid and topend.

Whilst on the dyno, with the link moved to stage 3 for race can (still using std can) torque was seen to rise much quicker from low rpm (posibly 200 rpm earlier) without changing output in the mid range or topend.
 
Indeed - as noted above you do not need to cut the tubes...they can be pried apart - there are two locating lugs if I remember correctly that need to be disengaged. Warm water or air will make it easier. This also makes it easily reversable. I did both and it did seem to make a difference. I have also tried the larger 52mm 1100RS tubes (which do not have that snorkel bit)which is even better on topend.
 


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