Beak Power Socket

[Hookster]

I'm sure I've seen a thread somewhere on adding a power socket into the beak on a 1200 GS but can't find it now. Any ideas? As usual I'm wanting to power a GPS (in this case Garmin 2610) <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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I know you can adapt the lead and plug into the spare canbus socket near the headstock but wanted something more flexible so would want to basically convert the canbus socket to Hella? Am I overcomplicating this or missing something?<o></o>

Many thanks for any tips or pointers.

 

[Bem]

As always the choice is to go with the Bm option or to plough your own furrow. I chose the latter, mounting a Centrex fuse board from NN then two wires forward, full size socket in the right fused at 10 amps for air compressor or charging in the garage, and DIN sized on the left fused at 5 amps used for heated waistcoat or GPS (or anything really). The beauty of this arrangment is that it undermines all principles and logic of the Canbus, but means that I can have power out or power in without having to faff around with the ignition. Hope this helps somewhat

 

[John Armstrong]

As always the choice is to go with the Bm option or to plough your own furrow. I chose the latter, mounting a Centrex fuse board from NN then two wires forward, full size socket in the right fused at 10 amps for air compressor or charging in the garage, and DIN sized on the left fused at 5 amps used for heated waistcoat or GPS (or anything really). The beauty of this arrangment is that it undermines all principles and logic of the Canbus, but means that I can have power out or power in without having to faff around with the ignition. Hope this helps somewhat

Similar idea for me, one din plug via centech and 10 amp fuse for the heated jacket and charging, and the normal accessory socket for the autocom. Headstock socket for the GPS as well. Works for me

 

[cookie]

I'm sure I've seen a thread somewhere on adding a power socket into the beak on a 1200 GS but can't find it now. Any ideas?

here

 

[Hookster]

here

I thank you and the other posters. I might be missing something here but why not use the canbus connection near the headstock and simply, in effect, convert it to the Hella type on the beak area?

Is there something wrong or limited with the supply to that? Perhaps I mislead with my initial post.

Thanks again.

 

[John Armstrong]

I thank you and the other posters. I might be missing something here but why not use the canbus connection near the headstock and simply, in effect, convert it to the Hella type on the beak area?

Is there something wrong or limited with the supply to that? Perhaps I mislead with my initial post.

Thanks again.

You can, but it's controlled by the can bus and IIRC the total amperage is the sum of the headstock and accessory socket. Using the centech means you can power something over 5 amps eg heated jacket, and you can charge the bikes battery without worrying about the zfe contoller shutting it down etc.

 

[Hookster]

You can, but it's controlled by the can bus and IIRC the total amperage is the sum of the headstock and accessory socket. Using the centech means you can power something over 5 amps eg heated jacket, and you can charge the bikes battery without worrying about the zfe contoller shutting it down etc.

Hi John. I see, with the exception of 'ZFE'? It probably won't be an issue for me total power-wise as I doubt the output of the alternator etc is up to much more than at present - Lights dim when the servo kicks in etc already! The optimate is already connected across the battery terminals and apart from the odd spurious 'fault' warning works fine at keeping it all topped up, as it should. I was just looking for a bit of flexibility with the socket is all, once converted.

Cheers yet again.

 

[John Armstrong]

The servo dimming the lights is "normal" AFAIK. IIRC hat's why there was a manual update regarding using the brakes too much and flattening the battery.

 

[cookie]

I thank you and the other posters. I might be missing something here but why not use the canbus connection near the headstock and simply, in effect, convert it to the Hella type on the beak area?

Is there something wrong or limited with the supply to that? Perhaps I mislead with my initial post.

Thanks again.

i don't know what the amp rating of the headstock canbus socket is.

besides which, i like the flexibility of having one socket not on the canbus, so it doesn't switch off 5 mins after ignition, or so i could plug in a charger (don't actually bother, but you never know).

 

[Hookster]

i don't know what the amp rating of the headstock canbus socket is.

besides which, i like the flexibility of having one socket not on the canbus, so it doesn't switch off 5 mins after ignition, or so i could plug in a charger (don't actually bother, but you never know).

Hi Cookie
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Wise words indeed! I went the easy route (no pun interned but quite good now I think about it) and simply soldered up the canbus lead and off we went. First stop and the issue with powering off became obvious in a flash. D'oh! You have to start messing around with `acquiring satellites etc etc every flipping time you pull up for a cuppa or a pee. <o></o>
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Plan A revisited..............<o></o>
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Hooky<o></o>

 

[John Armstrong]

Hi Cookie
First stop and the issue with powering off became obvious in a flash. D'oh! You have to start messing around with `acquiring satellites etc etc every flipping time you pull up for a cuppa or a pee.

At least you don't have a flat battery if you leave it on overnight, or the connectors turning green overnight as well.