Bevel Drive oil seal

~Stef~

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I recently noticed oil sprayed over the back tyre. Ive removed the gaitor to find oil in the swinging arm, it appears to be coming from the bevel drive oil seal, as theres no oil coming down from the gearbox. Haynes manual says its a dealer only job :yikes

Anyone know different ? Or do I just seal the gaitor oil tight and keep an eye on the bevel oil level :p

~Stef~
 
Do a search in this forum for pivot bearings. The bevel drive has to be removed in order to replace these. Something you may be advised to do at 12 pound/bearing [two required] whilst your at it.

Send your bevel box to Sherlocks by post. They'll turn it round in a couple of days for 25 pounds.

Removing the bevel box is not a difficult job, but for me it was complicated by:

1. Removing the Loctited pivot bolts. They require heating in order to melt the high strength Loctite. Attempting to remove the pivot bolts without melting the Loctite can damage the threads in the swing arm $$$$$$$$$$$$

I used a hot air gun and looking back I think it possibly wasn't enough [but I got away with it]. Next time I'll use a flame and heat the bolts as fast as possible.

2. Phasing the drive shaft. I removed the swing arm at the same time to allow access to gearbox end of the drive shaft to note position of the UJ. Good time to slap a dab of grease on the splines.

3. The necessity [wisdom?] of using high strength Loctite 2701 on reassembly. Try and get a 10ml bottle as 250ml works out at about 30 quid.

Russ.
 
I had this problem after the oil level in the bevel box was overfilled by a mechanic working at a very well-respected dealership with a good reputation on this forum. Apparently this causes too high a pressure in the box and the seal fails. Les (that's your clue) said the job involved applying heat to some parts, so perhaps that's why Haynes say to let the dealer do it.

The best that the dealer would offer was a 50% discount on the work. I've not been back. That was why I was tempted to try Pat at Mobitec. It's a lot easier when you can stay at home and the workshop comes to you...

Cheers, Norman
 
Can't see that's the case - as there is a breather fitted to the top of the bevel box case to stop pressure build -up.

Stef - arm yerself with a decent hot air gun with a point nozzle and heat the bolts up to melt the loctite. Its fairly easy to do the whole job on the garage floor.

At least if you get stuck, you can take it to a dealer and saved yerself the removal labour ?
 
how do you overfill a bevel box ?
only one way , lay the bike on its side.
also as Moto says, what pressure ?


:confused: :confused:
 
Don't embarass me any more, ta! My problem was overfilling of the rear wheel drive. The symptom was an oil drip from the gaitor onto the paralever arm.

Cheers, Norm
 
Took the bevel drive off meself, no problem. Dont have the special tool for removing the ring that holds the seal, and didnt have the time to make one, so took it to my dealer yesterday(Motorad Central in Glasgow) they were going to do it then an there for me, but they didnt have a seal in stock. Did promise to have it ready for today.

Ive been trying to get a hold of a pair of new bearings without paying dealer prices, local bearing supplier reckons there an unusual size and not available, except through a BMW dealer :(

~Stef~
 


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