Brake failure light
- Thread starter scot
- Start date
Ooh memories … I do recall that the brake failure light also meant something other than brakes . Could be wrong .. it’s a long time ago
Chat gpt says ;
common scenarios:
1. Flashing Brake Failure Light (at low speed):
• This is normal if the bike is just starting up and the ABS system hasn’t yet performed its self-check, which typically happens after you reach a speed of about 5 mph.
2. Steady or Continuous Flashing Brake Failure Light:
• This suggests a fault in the ABS system or another braking issue. Common causes include:
• Low brake fluid levels.
• Worn brake pads.
• A faulty ABS sensor.
• A damaged ABS control unit.
3. Brake Failure Light Combined with No ABS Function:
• This indicates the ABS system has been disabled due to a fault, but the brakes will still function conventionally without ABS. Exercise caution, especially in wet or slippery conditions.
If the light does not go off after starting or it stays on continuously, it is crucial to inspect the braking system. Check the brake fluid level and look for visible issues like leaks or worn pads. If the problem persists, it’s best to have the bike inspected by a BMW-certified mechanic to ensure safe operation.”
Do refer to workshop manual though
common scenarios:
1. Flashing Brake Failure Light (at low speed):
• This is normal if the bike is just starting up and the ABS system hasn’t yet performed its self-check, which typically happens after you reach a speed of about 5 mph.
2. Steady or Continuous Flashing Brake Failure Light:
• This suggests a fault in the ABS system or another braking issue. Common causes include:
• Low brake fluid levels.
• Worn brake pads.
• A faulty ABS sensor.
• A damaged ABS control unit.
3. Brake Failure Light Combined with No ABS Function:
• This indicates the ABS system has been disabled due to a fault, but the brakes will still function conventionally without ABS. Exercise caution, especially in wet or slippery conditions.
If the light does not go off after starting or it stays on continuously, it is crucial to inspect the braking system. Check the brake fluid level and look for visible issues like leaks or worn pads. If the problem persists, it’s best to have the bike inspected by a BMW-certified mechanic to ensure safe operation.”
Do refer to workshop manual though
Thanks it is on continuous
Finally is it an ABS failure light ?
That will also come on if you’ve accidentally disabled the ABS
That will also come on if you’ve accidentally disabled the ABS
I think the ABS light is a separate light this lit up red letters saying brake failure
hit the pump motor on the ABS module - brushes seized (as they designed it) - if like drilling holes accurately its a DIY job otherwise fight the module and send off for repair
one place https://www.ecutesting.com/product-catalogue/bmw/r1200gs/abs-pump-ecumodule-combined/
one place https://www.ecutesting.com/product-catalogue/bmw/r1200gs/abs-pump-ecumodule-combined/
Thanks
MWH
Registered user
Does the speedo still work? Sometimes the rear abs failing can bring up the abs light as i believe it uses this to detect speed as well. This is from what I've read on forums etc, never actually had it happen to me.
Happy to be corrected if I'm wrong
Happy to be corrected if I'm wrong
MWH
Registered user
Oh well, that's one thing of the list anyway I guess lol. Can you get the codes read? May help narrow it down?
Might be of help…
forums.bmwmoa.org
2008 R1200GS Brake Failure Light - how to diagnose
Im new to the HexHeads, Just got a used 2008 R1200GS. I have only had the bike for a couple weeks and the Brake Failure light comes on about 15 minutes into the ride. If I exercise the ABS with the light off, it works, if the light is on, it locks up the wheel. What can I check / test with...
forums.bmwmoa.org
When you plug the GS911 in, if you get the fault "ABS pump fault, interrupted power supply to ABS pump",
Then you will likely be needing the fix as mentioned by Botus in post number 7 above. If you are handy with the spanners, then it can be fixed very cheaply with an ABS pump from a Fiesta. There are several vids on YouTube showing how to do this.
Then you will likely be needing the fix as mentioned by Botus in post number 7 above. If you are handy with the spanners, then it can be fixed very cheaply with an ABS pump from a Fiesta. There are several vids on YouTube showing how to do this.
Interesting thanks do you know what year fiesta
I posted a thread when mine played up, here is the result after I fixed it, good luck with getting yours sorted
"Now Fixed
Thanks for the advice, and for anyone browsing the thread looking how to fix their bike, heres my take on the subject:
First and foremost, if you get the brake failure light coming on, get the fault codes read by a dealer/friendly GS911 owner. This fault cropped up shortly after replacing the brake discs when conventional wisdom would have pointed me in the direction of the wheel sensors.
You will need to remove your ABS unit, remove the faulty pump from it, repair or replace it, re-fit and ride!
I chose to fit a used pump from a Fiesta.
The Ford Fiesta part number you need is CV21-2C405-AE. There are vids on YouTube of how to do this so I'm not going into detail of what to do
(edited to remove obsolete Youtube link)
What I will add is that before you start, drain the brake fluid, it will save a lot of mess. Just open the bleed nipples on all 3 calipers, remove the reservoir filler caps and pump out the fluid until the reservoirs are empty then leave it to drain a bit longer.
When I put it back together, the front brakes bled quite easily and I soon had pressure at the lever. The rear was a bit more involved, I had to loosen the "fluid out" banjo bolt on the ABS module and bleed from there to get all the air out so fluid would then flow to the caliper.
Test rode the bike yesterday morning and all was well. Fixed for a £40 used pump and a bottle of brake fluid.
"
"Now Fixed
Thanks for the advice, and for anyone browsing the thread looking how to fix their bike, heres my take on the subject:
First and foremost, if you get the brake failure light coming on, get the fault codes read by a dealer/friendly GS911 owner. This fault cropped up shortly after replacing the brake discs when conventional wisdom would have pointed me in the direction of the wheel sensors.
You will need to remove your ABS unit, remove the faulty pump from it, repair or replace it, re-fit and ride!
I chose to fit a used pump from a Fiesta.
The Ford Fiesta part number you need is CV21-2C405-AE. There are vids on YouTube of how to do this so I'm not going into detail of what to do
(edited to remove obsolete Youtube link)
What I will add is that before you start, drain the brake fluid, it will save a lot of mess. Just open the bleed nipples on all 3 calipers, remove the reservoir filler caps and pump out the fluid until the reservoirs are empty then leave it to drain a bit longer.
When I put it back together, the front brakes bled quite easily and I soon had pressure at the lever. The rear was a bit more involved, I had to loosen the "fluid out" banjo bolt on the ABS module and bleed from there to get all the air out so fluid would then flow to the caliper.
Test rode the bike yesterday morning and all was well. Fixed for a £40 used pump and a bottle of brake fluid.
"Brilliant thank youI posted a thread when mine played up, here is the result after I fixed it, good luck with getting yours sorted
"Now Fixed
Thanks for the advice, and for anyone browsing the thread looking how to fix their bike, heres my take on the subject:
First and foremost, if you get the brake failure light coming on, get the fault codes read by a dealer/friendly GS911 owner. This fault cropped up shortly after replacing the brake discs when conventional wisdom would have pointed me in the direction of the wheel sensors.
You will need to remove your ABS unit, remove the faulty pump from it, repair or replace it, re-fit and ride!
I chose to fit a used pump from a Fiesta.
The Ford Fiesta part number you need is CV21-2C405-AE. There are vids on YouTube of how to do this so I'm not going into detail of what to do
(edited to remove obsolete Youtube link)
What I will add is that before you start, drain the brake fluid, it will save a lot of mess. Just open the bleed nipples on all 3 calipers, remove the reservoir filler caps and pump out the fluid until the reservoirs are empty then leave it to drain a bit longer.
When I put it back together, the front brakes bled quite easily and I soon had pressure at the lever. The rear was a bit more involved, I had to loosen the "fluid out" banjo bolt on the ABS module and bleed from there to get all the air out so fluid would then flow to the caliper.
Test rode the bike yesterday morning and all was well. Fixed for a £40 used pump and a bottle of brake fluid.
I’ve recently suffered an ABS pump failure ; I must say , that’s one part that I would NEVER attempt to diy fix.
(I was very aware of the Fiesta ABS fix )
the usual fault is the car ESP pump stopping working - on cars they have a pump to provide any wheel independent braking regardless of the driver playing or not with the brake pedal, to give brake pressure for the ESP safety feature...
on all VAG and BMW junk they specifically have units that fail at less than a 1/3 of the mileage of the ford and merc units - whilst its usually the same manufacturer supplied units... so it has to be a spec variation those criminal companies buy in... as usual BWMs ability to spread misinformation and achieve deals with authorities is still seeing it get away with it... whereas VAG has been bitten on multiple occasions. Interestingly on dieselgate BMWs cheat methods have now been uncovered (but I see as usual, very few media channels are sharing that information...)
on the GS with linked brakes I believe the pump helps apply the pressure for the front / rear split from either lever - the most common fault stops the pump but aside from impacting ABS, the rest of the braking remain functioning in a perfectly rideable manner
however I have had both a car, and on my GS, a different failure mode (easily reapairable) that renders unbalanced braking where individual wheels will lock with very low braking force applied by the driver / rider and is dangerous to continue using the vehicle - note the are legal needs for ABS to function after a certain year of manu
on all VAG and BMW junk they specifically have units that fail at less than a 1/3 of the mileage of the ford and merc units - whilst its usually the same manufacturer supplied units... so it has to be a spec variation those criminal companies buy in... as usual BWMs ability to spread misinformation and achieve deals with authorities is still seeing it get away with it... whereas VAG has been bitten on multiple occasions. Interestingly on dieselgate BMWs cheat methods have now been uncovered (but I see as usual, very few media channels are sharing that information...)
on the GS with linked brakes I believe the pump helps apply the pressure for the front / rear split from either lever - the most common fault stops the pump but aside from impacting ABS, the rest of the braking remain functioning in a perfectly rideable manner
however I have had both a car, and on my GS, a different failure mode (easily reapairable) that renders unbalanced braking where individual wheels will lock with very low braking force applied by the driver / rider and is dangerous to continue using the vehicle - note the are legal needs for ABS to function after a certain year of manu
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