"Buckled" spoked wheel

[UpgradeAl]

Guidance please.

Am looking for somebody who really knows what they are doing, to look at at my spoked rear wheel to tell me if the slight "buckle" on rotation is acceptable, or can re-adjust the spokes it if it is not.

West London area.

Many thanks

 

[harry]

Guidance please.

Am looking for somebody who really knows what they are doing, to look at at my spoked rear wheel to tell me if the slight "buckle" on rotation is acceptable, or can re-adjust the spokes it if it is not.

West London area.

Many thanks

I had an GS12 with just this 'buckle'. Turned out it was incorrectly assembled by BMW, 'twas a new bike. They changed the whole of the rear transmission.

 

[mikeyboy]

Hagon

 

[harry]

Further to my last. Put it on the centre stand and run in 1st gear. I think you are likely to have trouble in the hub.

 

[Alan R]

Further to my last. Put it on the centre stand and run in 1st gear. I think you are likely to have trouble in the hub.

This may be bad advice.... The received wisdom has it that the angles involved on an unweighted drive shaft uv joints are not conducive to smooth operation. You may hear clunks and knocks from the drive shaft while running as per the above suggestion.
Alan R

 

[mikeyboy]

Play in transmission is a bit different to wheel runout,more clarification needed maybe

 

[UpgradeAl]

Further to my last. Put it on the centre stand and run in 1st gear. I think you are likely to have trouble in the hub.

Done that, obviously, after it was notice by a colleague following me on the road. That's how I assessed the buckle ! I don't see how that necessarily affects, or is affected by, the hub in itself, unless I am being really stupid (which wouldn't be the first time). Can you enlighten me please?

 

[Sgt Bilco]

Take the wheel to Hagon is Essex. Just had mine done there and they do a brilliant job and a sensible price.

 

[harry]

It may be that a visit to Hagon will solve your problem. With mine the transmission had been poorly assembled and when the wheel was mounted it looked for all the world like a buckled wheel.

You haven't told us if you have taken a pothole, age of bike, do you off-road etc?

 

[mikeyboy]

It may be that a visit to Hagon will solve your problem. With mine the transmission had been poorly assembled and when the wheel was mounted it looked for all the world like a buckled wheel.

You haven't told us if you have taken a pothole, age of bike, do you off-road etc?

Either the wheel has runout,or the fd is fucked ,very different problems

 

[harry]

Either the wheel has runout,or the fd is fucked ,very different problems

Yes, Mb I do realise that. I don't know any more than your good self about the OP's problem. MY FD was incorrectly assembled from the factory.

 

[UpgradeAl]

Yes, Mb I do realise that. I don't know any more than your good self about the OP's problem. MY FD was incorrectly assembled from the factory.

Listen guys. I've run the wheel in 1st on the centre stand. I've seen where and what the "buckle" is. I've checked out the hub bearings.

All I am looking for (as I said in the OP) is somebody trustworthy to assess it and fix it if necessary. Please don't hassle me with unnecessary complications based on your own experiences (or lacks thereof). Is that too much too ask??

The wisest words here from Sgt Bilko - he answered my question.

Rant over.

 

[G5RJO]

You don't need (nor should you) run it in gear on the centre stand.

Firstly, kneel on near side of bike and grab the wheel top and bottom. Try and pull it off.. Waggle it top and bottom.. Does it move? Try front and rear of the wheel. If the final drive is on its way out you will generally feel it rock and possibly see it move. A couple of mm is bad news...

To see if it's a buckle.....

The buckle could be a side to side buckle or an out of round situation... Possibly a combination of the two.

Put it in neutral. On the centre stand. Kneel down on the offside of the bike and fasten a cable tie to the bar that supports the brake hose at the point closest to the rim and cut off the excess cable tie so the tab points at and just touches the rim..

Turn the wheel by hand. Watch where the cable tie touches or moves away side to side movement as you rotate... Buckle ... Or runs out of round. It will be obvious.

Running it in gear allows the backlash in the transmission to bounce around. It plays tricks on the eye and may look buckled. The above will prove or disprove it.

Hope that helps.

Roger.

 

[Popell]

I have spokes and definitely they tend to be less true than an alloy - wether they start that way or just go like that over time, I don't know (mine is 2005)
There will certainly be a tolerance that BMW say is permissable .
If you have access to a DTI (Dial gauge), you can measure the errors in both out of round and buckle scenarios.

I probably have a couple of mm but it does not seem to affect the performance of the bike as far as I can tell.

 

[oldnfat]

Agree with the others...Due to the construction of the wheel most people will not touch them. Hagon however have the right kit and experience. Pretty quick and as Bilco says, reasonable about £140 including courier both ways. You will need to take the bearing out and discs off before you send neither job too diffcult.

 

[spm0912]

Using the 'zip tie' method today, I reckon my rear wheel is out 2-3mm in both directions. I get a rhythmic vibration that can be felt through the whole bike at 70mph + on the motorway. I know it's tyres or wheels cos I bought some cast ones this year and the bike ran nice and smooth with them fitted. So, any one know what BMW specify as 'within tolerance'? And if I take the wheels to Hagon is it realistic to expect them to be 100% true?

 

[Bendy toy]

Ask Hagon or Devon Wheel Company what's an acceptable run out.