Cast or Stainless ??
- Thread starter digga
- Start date
NS3230
Registered user
Had a cast iron disc on back of a 1979 R100RT once, worked well but a bugger to free if bike put away wet and not ridden for few weeks. (Also owned a guzzi le mans 2 at this time). One year at Mot time I had to run engine for 10 mins, with bike in gear (since learned this isnt a good idea, but didn't affect mine)holding emery paper against the disc to clear the rust and provide some stopping power!
The Mot testers were a little more understanding in those days.
Cannot comment on the EBC I'm afraid as I have no experience of them.
Personally I attemot to use the brakes as little as possible, aiming to ride the 15 mile to work in rush hour traffic without touching them or putting a foot down, when possible and probably have not used them in an emergency situation for several years! ps. I ride / drive about 15,000 mile per year.
The Mot testers were a little more understanding in those days.
Cannot comment on the EBC I'm afraid as I have no experience of them.
Personally I attemot to use the brakes as little as possible, aiming to ride the 15 mile to work in rush hour traffic without touching them or putting a foot down, when possible and probably have not used them in an emergency situation for several years! ps. I ride / drive about 15,000 mile per year.
Cast are crap. As NS3230 says, I've had them seize up completely while I've been at work and then had to struggle to free them up before I could ride home. I've yet to have one that hasn't warped.
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Ask Motorworks how much a 2nd hand set are !
get some used jap st st discs and calipers
Beemerboff
Registered user
You dont say whether yours is a ATE or Brembo calliper, but if it is a ATE the pads available are wasted on a expensive EBC disk.
If it a Brembo you have a few more choices - there are oversize disk kits around which include the disk and adaptors and they dont cost much more than the EBC disk alone, and they make a decent sort of improvement over the stock set up.
And decent pads are available for the Brembos too.
Wemoto also have OEM quality Kyoto disks for some R80 models for around 70 quid, and they work fine.
You save as you use the original carrier and have to drill out the existing disk fittings and refit the disk with the supplied fixings.
They also have reasonably priced Kyoto pads which work well with the disks.
If it a Brembo you have a few more choices - there are oversize disk kits around which include the disk and adaptors and they dont cost much more than the EBC disk alone, and they make a decent sort of improvement over the stock set up.
And decent pads are available for the Brembos too.
Wemoto also have OEM quality Kyoto disks for some R80 models for around 70 quid, and they work fine.
You save as you use the original carrier and have to drill out the existing disk fittings and refit the disk with the supplied fixings.
They also have reasonably priced Kyoto pads which work well with the disks.
Interesting …..
I am not at all aux fait with the in's and outs of interchangeability. The oversize kit sounds the thing i'm after.
A trade contact bought to my attention some disc's from a Co. in Spain ( with a UK distributor) that were priced at about £57 each, and they were to fit the exisiting carriers, the distributor didn't mention the 'supplied fittings' when i asked how/where i could get the rivets!! TBH i have never heard / read of any disc' being re-rivetted!
(the caliper are Brembo BTW)
cheers
£95 per disc …
Cast Iron for me, had them for 20,000 miles at a guess, I much prefer them to the OE. Not as shiny, for sure, and they get a thin covering of rust after a ride in the rain, but that comes off at the first use of the brakes on your next ride.
One thing I really didn't like with the original stainless discs was that the drillings resulted in wear ridges on the discs and the pads which meant that new pads took a while to bed in. The cast ones aren't drilled, nor do they need drillings- I believe they were needed to help to help clear water from the dics before they started using better pad material. It took a second or so for the brakes to start working when they were really wet, it made for an exciting ride.
One thing I really didn't like with the original stainless discs was that the drillings resulted in wear ridges on the discs and the pads which meant that new pads took a while to bed in. The cast ones aren't drilled, nor do they need drillings- I believe they were needed to help to help clear water from the dics before they started using better pad material. It took a second or so for the brakes to start working when they were really wet, it made for an exciting ride.
stash
Registered user
Hi Beemerboff
I have just bought the Kyoto replacement disc for the 100GS and it would seem that the wave washer lies underneath the stepped bobbin. Just checking as it would be daft to have it installed incorrectly.
The other washers that are supplied I presume go on the rear of the carrier but to me they seem rather large when the surface area they locate to is so small. Could you or anyone else please advise as Wemoto were unable to clarify the layout of the fixing components. Cheers.
Stan
I have just bought the Kyoto replacement disc for the 100GS and it would seem that the wave washer lies underneath the stepped bobbin. Just checking as it would be daft to have it installed incorrectly.
The other washers that are supplied I presume go on the rear of the carrier but to me they seem rather large when the surface area they locate to is so small. Could you or anyone else please advise as Wemoto were unable to clarify the layout of the fixing components. Cheers.
Stan
It's the quality of the cast discs more than the material itself I have an issue with. I've yet to have a cast dic that hasn't warped. Got a pair on my 100/7 that are fine when cold but as soon as they get hot they warp. Plenty of meat on them so I'm loath to change them for the sake of it. I've had similar issues on several bikes in the past.
Another prob with undrilled cast is they do not clear water well... And when used with HH pads which need to be hot to bite well, they can give you a good rush when they don't work for a second or three in heavy rain...
I too have had them freeze pad to disc over night on a few occasions wehen the bike is outside... Its hard not to get high spots 'cos of this and its also advisable to keep an allen key and a mallet for a truly effective freeing process...
All experience and not something heard 3rd hand...
I too have had them freeze pad to disc over night on a few occasions wehen the bike is outside... Its hard not to get high spots 'cos of this and its also advisable to keep an allen key and a mallet for a truly effective freeing process...
All experience and not something heard 3rd hand...
Beemerboff
Registered user
Stash , just seen your post as it was a holiday weekend here.
It is midnight and I cant go down the shed without starting every dog for miles barking, but I will have a look tomorrow.
The over sized SS disk on my G/S actually rusts too, with sintered pads, and it is magnetic.
I think the early disks were non magnetic and didnt work as well as the later magnetic ones.
The "Overland" cast iron disks on my R75/7 have been there for 15 years and havent warped yet, and they dont rust too badly , but they dont give anything special in the braking department either.
It is midnight and I cant go down the shed without starting every dog for miles barking, but I will have a look tomorrow.
The over sized SS disk on my G/S actually rusts too, with sintered pads, and it is magnetic.
I think the early disks were non magnetic and didnt work as well as the later magnetic ones.
The "Overland" cast iron disks on my R75/7 have been there for 15 years and havent warped yet, and they dont rust too badly , but they dont give anything special in the braking department either.
I had a dic that warped when hot on my pd.
You can see in the thermal image the hot spot just behind the fork leg. It was fine when cold.
You can see in the thermal image the hot spot just behind the fork leg. It was fine when cold.
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