Centring swing arm.

[Crapaud]

Spent most of today working on my R100PD Classic. Not touched it much recently as concentrated on 1100 after Calum's Road.

Fitted new gearbox and pleased with myself going this unaided. Managed to put it all back together and don't have any bits left over so thats a good sign.

Only thing I was not 100% sure of was refitting the swingarm. The Haynes manual says to make sure it is central on the bike but I'm not sure how you take measurements. Is it from the inside of the frame to the bearing surface?

And also not sure how tight to do bolts. Don't want to damage bearings.

Hopefully now its fully serviced, I can take it out for a spin over Easter.

Sid

 

[Kenny]

Gap between inside of frame and outside of swingarm should be equal. Loosen large nut on outside ( with thin socket from motorworks ) and using an allen key adjust accordingly, then retighten ( pre load them a tad and then 'do up' but havn't got my manuals here at the moment so can't advise of the pre-load etc. Really straight forward...then grease bearing ( special pointed grease nipple ) before refitting plastic cap

 

[JPR]

Ive always used feeler guages between frame and swinging arm.
But im sure someone will come along and say thats a load of bollix.

 

[JPR]

Bloody hell Kenny. Isnt it past your bedtime. !

 

[Kenny]

Ive always used feeler guages between frame and swinging arm.
But im sure someone will come along and say thats a load of bollix.

Your right, your talking bollicks About a 4 or 5 mm gap either side...I don't think they make feeler guages that thick

Bedtime...best time to get some lead in

 

[JPR]

Ive got some smartarse!

 

[Kenny]

 

[John Roberts]

Funnily enough I dismantled my bike yesterday and measured the spacing of the swing arm before taking it off. I used dial calipers, the clearance on one side was 4.00mm and 3.50mm on the other, half a millimetre difference. What I'll do when I replace the swing arm is to use the shank of a 3.5mm drill to get the gaps nearly equal each side, it should be near enough for me. Your precise gaps may vary from mine, if you have a set of drills (or, indeed, calipers) just use one of those to get the gaps equal on both sides.

Here are the instructions according to the Haynes manual. Enjoy!

EDIT: The adjuster locknuts on the pivots should be torqued to 100-120Nm (74-88.5lbf ft)

 

[Crapaud]

Very helpful.

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

Sid

 

[DrFarkoff]

Sid Allen keys can also allow you a semi precise method of measurementThe flat sides help

 

[Crapaud]

Sid Allen keys can also allow you a semi precise method of measurementThe flat sides help

Perfect! Used 3 and 4mm allen keys and got gap to 3.5 to 4mm each side. Given the bike a good valet today and it looks immaculate in black and chrome. Hopefully, it will be dry enough to take it out for a good run tomorrow.