Markblox
Registered user
Any special technique for adjusting the chain or do I just undo the bolts and wrestle the wheel back, making sure it stays inline?
chain adjustment
- Thread starter Markblox
- Start date
No probs... no need to wrestle with anything. Just back off the wheel spindle nut on the offside sufficient to pull the wheel back on the adjusters, and make sure the marks at each side, in the 'window', are the same. Adjust at the chains tightest spot if it has one... Sorted
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Markblox
Registered user
Thanks Micky. I'll have a go at that in the morning. Mark
After you've got the adjustment right and tightened the axle bolt, tighten up the adjuster bolts or they'll come loose and rattle or fall out
Tony
Good point... but that's why I only slacken the axle bolt sufficient to actually have to pull it back by the adjuster bolts, to give the correct adjustment... this way they remain tight.
Pays now and again to back off the adjuster bolts and loosen the end caps (no need to slack the axle nut) pull 'em back and let excess water run out of the swing arms. God knows how it gets in there
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Markblox
Registered user
Originally Posted by talltony
After you've got the adjustment right and tightened the axle bolt, tighten up the adjuster bolts or they'll come loose and rattle or fall out
Tony
Thanks, I done all that yesterday, At first I didn't notice the bolts to adjust it with. Anyway done the nut up to 60 IBs/FT. I noticed I should have replaced the chain as the rear sprocket is quite badly worn. In the past month I have been doing about 500 miles per week to work and only noticed the chain was stretched last week. The tyres are pretty worn now too. Any advice on where to get all this sorted? I live near Brighton and the nearest main dealer is in Guildford but I don't know of anywhere else I could take it. Will the front sprocket be worn out in your experience as well. I suppose I should LOOK but I'm not sure it's visible. Anyway, thanks for your help. Mark
After you've got the adjustment right and tightened the axle bolt, tighten up the adjuster bolts or they'll come loose and rattle or fall out
Tony
Thanks, I done all that yesterday, At first I didn't notice the bolts to adjust it with. Anyway done the nut up to 60 IBs/FT. I noticed I should have replaced the chain as the rear sprocket is quite badly worn. In the past month I have been doing about 500 miles per week to work and only noticed the chain was stretched last week. The tyres are pretty worn now too. Any advice on where to get all this sorted? I live near Brighton and the nearest main dealer is in Guildford but I don't know of anywhere else I could take it. Will the front sprocket be worn out in your experience as well. I suppose I should LOOK but I'm not sure it's visible. Anyway, thanks for your help. Mark
davers
Guest
yep always replace both sprockets when you replace the chain,if you dont the chain will wear out too quickly.
fleetwood
Guest
Hi replaced the chain and sprockets on my Funduro about a year ago, after much searching around for the best price to my amazement buying the genuine parts from BMW was the cheapest. This is normally a fairly straight forward job however the genuine chain is endless (no joining link) therefor I had to remove the swinging arm to fit the new parts.Think I am correct in saying that if you buy an aftermarket chain kit it will come with a rivet type link. Removing the swinging arm isn't a big job and gives you a good opportunity to grease up the swinging arm and lower linkage bearings
Front sprocket hidden behind an easily removed cover - it will show signs of wear! I found the front sprocket wore twice as fast as the rear. Replacing the front early will help the chain and rear sprocket last longer.
Be careful not to overtighten your chain when adjusting - will cause rapid wear, and can damage your gearbox. Make sure there is still some play when the two sprocket centres and swing arm pivot are all lined up.
Markblox
Registered user
Hi replaced the chain and sprockets on my Funduro about a year ago, after much searching around for the best price to my amazement buying the genuine parts from BMW was the cheapest. This is normally a fairly straight forward job however the genuine chain is endless (no joining link) therefor I had to remove the swinging arm to fit the new parts.Think I am correct in saying that if you buy an aftermarket chain kit it will come with a rivet type link. Removing the swinging arm isn't a big job and gives you a good opportunity to grease up the swinging arm and lower linkage bearings
Thanks for that, I may do it myself, if I can be bothered. Out of interest, how much did the parts cost?
fleetwood
Guest
IIRC £68 but if you cant be bothered then
I would suspect you will have to add a few hundred to that Markblox
Registered user
IIRC £68 but if you cant be bothered then
Oh, I think I'll be bothered then!
RadioActive
Guest
I've just changed my sprockets and chain. Being lazy I got a split chain but just before I did the job I read about the swingarm bearings being prone to failing and thought I might as well check them. Good job I did because one looked like it had spent it's life in the sea 
. I had to get a new bearing sleeve too because it was so corroded and the dealers don't seem to stock them so that took a week. I remember now why I've got an 1100 for my commuting
. I had to get a new bearing sleeve too because it was so corroded and the dealers don't seem to stock them so that took a week. I remember now why I've got an 1100 for my commuting Markblox
Registered user
I've just changed my sprockets and chain. Being lazy I got a split chain but just before I did the job I read about the swingarm bearings being prone to failing and thought I might as well check them. Good job I did because one looked like it had spent it's life in the sea
Yea, I think I'll do the job myself in a few weeks. The bike looks in a right state. Give it a good scrub at the same time. Must admit to thinking about getting a bigger bike all the time. I just keep going faster and faster on the 650 and although the engine is strong I get the feeling that I'm straining it a bit in the long term. Plus getting sick of numb fingers in my right hand. The problem is though, I don't know what to get. The 1150 is cheaper than a 1200 so is appealing but, oh I'm thinking too much about the whole thing. I've never even ridden an 1150 but have tried the 12 which was very easy to ride and I liked it a lot. I suppose I'll have to try one or maybe wait for the 800 gs to arrive, but the early ones are never any good are they. does any one want to take a vote on it and decide for me. bla bla bla. dinners ready, bye-Mark
RadioActive
Guest
I need two bikes - gives me a fighting chance of having something to ride 'cos I seem a bit slow with the old spanners! One day I'll probably have to use my wife's TU-250 to go to work
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