Changing up to a GSA Triple Black - thoughts/advice please.

[leadfarmer]

Not tried the bmw locks but I used to work in the car industry and have coded hundreds of locks from different manufacturers so they will not be any different

It’s extremely easy unless the lock itself can not be dismantled without destroying it, no need to be skilled in any way

Once you’ve done the first one you have the code

On the “high security “ ford locks for example, you can even read the key by eye as there are only 4 tumbler numbers

 

[Neil W]

When I swapped from a 2014 to a 2018 model GSA I kept my old panniers , the dealer recoded the pannier locks FOC it took under an hour for all 6 pannier locks, tell the dealer to do it for free as part of the deal or to FRO and take your business elsewhere

 

[the woodster]

I am the most impatient man in the world. Anything that doesn't fit to anything straight away gets thrown around my garage and drive, accompanied by expletives galore. I still managed to re-code my pannier locks on three occasions without any baffoonery. It's a breeze once you know what to do. The guys above are spot on. The You Tube videos are excellent. I would have put a link in but can't find the one I used!

 

[Nutty]

Great advice guys... this really is a brilliant forum.

If you subscribe and could accept private messages, you’d find that it’s an even better forum.

I could put you in touch with a dealer that would do a much better deal, so you’d get your subscription fee back immediately.

 

[Geekay]

In order to recode a lock you have to pry off the front bezel and put it back on again. It's indeed doable, but I did not mention it since the guy is buying a brand new bike, and he has to do 8 locks ( 3 + 3 + 2), and the chances are his existing plates will not fit so he well be stuck with a half-ass solution with perhaps only one or two fitting plates in each lock and a partly bent bezel in front of the lock. Potentially lots of efforts for potentially half ass result only to save a lousy £300....

But off course, if the PO lives under a bridge, I can see the point...

That’s not true at all. There’s no “prying” off of anything. As long as he leaves them unlocked it fairly simple to release the lock barrels.


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[Nutty]

That’s not true at all. There’s no “prying” off of anything. As long as he leaves them unlocked it fairly simple to release the lock barrels.


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Just a small flat screwdriver is all that’s needed

 

[ChazzyB]

Your dealer is taking the fucking piss !

Isn't it just. I asked for the locks on my boxes to be re-coded as part of the deal.

 

[devonuk]

Guys... all sorted now thanks and happy with my "deal". My concerns have been addressed, with your help of course

 

[knutk]

That’s not true at all. There’s no “prying” off of anything. As long as he leaves them unlocked it fairly simple to release the lock barrels.


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If the boxes are delivered from factory allready coded there is a pin inside that stops the plates from popping out, and in order to get the pin out you have to pry of the chromed bezel in the front of the lock and pull out the pin in order to release the plates. This may hurt the shape of the bezel.

If the locks were keyed by the dealer the rekeyable barrel looks the same, but without the lock pin. Then, taking out the lock for cleaning and lubrication will give you a surprice if you pull out the key from the barrel if the barrel is out of the lock.
There is a kit available to dealers containing all the different plates available.
I don't know what the dealers do in UK, as you may order either ready coded (with a pin inside) or recodable locks (looks the same, but no pin inside).

 

[Geekay]

If the boxes are delivered from factory allready coded there is a pin inside that stops the plates from popping out, and in order to get the pin out you have to pry of the chromed bezel in the front of the lock and pull out the pin in order to release the plates. This may hurt the shape of the bezel.

There is no “pin”anymore. That’s an old style of pannier. I understand that the liquid cooled locks (Vario or aluminium) are all re codable.




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[ChazzyB]

If the boxes are delivered from factory allready coded there is a pin inside that stops the plates from popping out, and in order to get the pin out you have to pry of the chromed bezel in the front of the lock and pull out the pin in order to release the plates. This may hurt the shape of the bezel.

If the locks were keyed by the dealer the rekeyable barrel looks the same, but without the lock pin. Then, taking out the lock for cleaning and lubrication will give you a surprice if you pull out the key from the barrel if the barrel is out of the lock.
There is a kit available to dealers containing all the different plates available.
I don't know what the dealers do in UK, as you may order either ready coded (with a pin inside) or recodable locks (looks the same, but no pin inside).

Chrome bezel on the lock? Not on my Varios there isn't.

 

[knutk]

Chrome bezel on the lock? Not on my Varios there isn't.

The bezel is what keeps the lockpin from popping out and dirt entering the barrel.
Perhaps that might be what differs the rekeyable ones from the ready coded ones?

Anyone that have tried both?

 

[ChazzyB]

I'm pretty sure we don't get boxes ready-keyed from the factory in the UK. Perhaps it happens for the bikes where boxes are standard, but AFAIK, that's limited to the RT and perhaps a K1600 configuration or two.

 

[Geekay]

The bezel is what keeps the lockpin from popping out and dirt entering the barrel.
Perhaps that might be what differs the rekeyable ones from the ready coded ones?

Anyone that have tried both?

this is exactly my point! - the bezel DOES NOT stop the lock popping out - its just a pretty trim with a slide thing that covers the key entry

the locking wafer at the back of the barrel keeps the barrel (and bezel) in place - on an unlocked box you simply depress the locking wafer (keep the key in the barrel) and out it all comes!

 

[knutk]

this is exactly my point! - the bezel DOES NOT stop the lock popping out - its just a pretty trim with a slide thing that covers the key entry

the locking wafer at the back of the barrel keeps the barrel (and bezel) in place - on an unlocked box you simply depress the locking wafer (keep the key in the barrel) and out it all comes!

Apearantly I do not express my self clear.

In the locks that come ready made for one specific key, there is a built in pin that goes in paralell to the key. This pin pokes through all the plates. It is pushed into the barrel from the front, and the metal plate that covers the keyhole keeps the pin from coming out. As long as the pin is there you will not be able to slide out each individual plate when the key is out. In order to be able to slide the different plates out you have to pull this pin out. And for the pin to come out, the plate that covers the keyhole has to come off. The plate is pushed on to the front of the barrel and the edges are squezed into the barrel in order for the plate to not fall off.

The locks that are rekeyable does not have this pin. So if you pull the lock out for cleaning and you remove the key from the lock there is nothing that stops the plates from sliding out of the locks, as the pin that pokes through them all is not there.

 

[Nutty]

Apearantly I do not express my self clear.

In the locks that come ready made for one specific key, there is a built in pin that goes in paralell to the key. This pin pokes through all the plates. It is pushed into the barrel from the front, and the metal plate that covers the keyhole keeps the pin from coming out. As long as the pin is there you will not be able to slide out each individual plate when the key is out. In order to be able to slide the different plates out you have to pull this pin out. And for the pin to come out, the plate that covers the keyhole has to come off. The plate is pushed on to the front of the barrel and the edges are squezed into the barrel in order for the plate to not fall off.

The locks that are rekeyable does not have this pin. So if you pull the lock out for cleaning and you remove the key from the lock there is nothing that stops the plates from sliding out of the locks, as the pin that pokes through them all is not there.

On the locks for the latest luggage, when the lock is unlocked, you remove it from behind with a small flat screwdriver. The lock has to be unlocked in order to do this though.

I've next had to take the chrome cap off the front of the lock barrel.

 

[Geekay]

Apearantly I do not express my self clear.

In the locks that come ready made for one specific key, there is a built in pin that goes in paralell to the key. This pin pokes through all the plates. It is pushed into the barrel from the front, and the metal plate that covers the keyhole keeps the pin from coming out. As long as the pin is there you will not be able to slide out each individual plate when the key is out. In order to be able to slide the different plates out you have to pull this pin out. And for the pin to come out, the plate that covers the keyhole has to come off. The plate is pushed on to the front of the barrel and the edges are squezed into the barrel in order for the plate to not fall off.

The locks that are rekeyable does not have this pin. So if you pull the lock out for cleaning and you remove the key from the lock there is nothing that stops the plates from sliding out of the locks, as the pin that pokes through them all is not there.

sorry - you are actually making yourself clear - but what im trying to say, is that the type of lock you refer to - the ones made for a specific key, with the 'pin' - are for the older air-cooled luggage - i understand they were phased out and dont appear on the LC luggage at all.

Given we're on the Water-cooled section, i would think it is highly likely that the OP will have re-codable lock barrels.

and yes, you are right - he / she needs to leave the key in the barrel or all the little wafers (and the even smaller springs!) will be all over the place!

 

[knutk]

Here is rhe barrel from the alu- topcase for my -15 GSA.
The cases where ordered with the bike and is keyed by BMW.

You can clearly see that the key is not in it, and no plate has popped out.
You can also see the notches that holds the frontplate. In order to rekey you will have pry out these notches, with the chance of deform the front plate.

That was my point for suggesting to get new rekeyable locks and let the locks matching the bike to stay with the bike.

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[rjsmith26]

Late to this post - I changed this year from a 15GSA to a 18GSA TB. Took my Nav5 and 3 boxes across. Rekeying all done as part of the deal with basically no haggling and a very good price from North Oxford. Simon and his team's service both in bike (and locks) change over was perfect as was the included 600 service. I think your talking to the wrong dealer. Good Luck with your swap.

 

[Geekay]

Here is rhe barrel from the alu- topcase for my -15 GSA.
The cases where ordered with the bike and is keyed by BMW.

You can clearly see that the key is not in it, and no plate has popped out.
You can also see the notches that holds the frontplate. In order to rekey you will have pry out these notches, with the chance of deform the front plate.

That was my point for suggesting to get new rekeyable locks and let the locks matching the bike to stay with the bike.

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Then I apologise - I’m clearly wrong about the “pinned”luggage disappearing with the air cooled luggage! Sorry.


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