Clutch Lever

[B4ndit]

I have bled the clutch. It wasn't too hard but I kept squirting DOT 4 everywhere.

Anyway the bike runs fine but initially the clutch would only work correctly on Lever setting number 3. I went back to it later and changed the setting to 2. That works better and the bite is less fierce. On setting 3 the bite would kick in after releasing the lever just a couple of millimeters.

Is there any way of adjusting the lever at the handlebar end to get the requisite 10mm of free play and therefore set the clutch right and be able to tell how much life its got left. As you would be able to with a cable clutch lever.

Only got the front brakes left to do but thats going to wait until i have a Mityvac or whatever else someone might suggest.

 

[AndrewD]

I have bled the clutch. It wasn't too hard but I kept squirting DOT 4 everywhere.

Anyway the bike runs fine but initially the clutch would only work correctly on Lever setting number 3. I went back to it later and changed the setting to 2. That works better and the bite is less fierce. On setting 3 the bite would kick in after releasing the lever just a couple of millimeters.

Is there any way of adjusting the lever at the handlebar end to get the requisite 10mm of free play and therefore set the clutch right and be able to tell how much life its got left. As you would be able to with a cable clutch lever.

Only got the front brakes left to do but thats going to wait until i have a Mityvac or whatever else someone might suggest.

I'd find somewhere to service it...

The numbers on the lever are to suit your hand not the bite.

 

[B4ndit]

I'd find somewhere to service it...

The numbers on the lever are to suit your hand not the bite.

I will get there eventually. I wanted to learn how to service these things as I have a few bikes to keep on the road and costs have to be cut somewhere.

I suffer a little from OCD and need to know that something is working correctly.

I did have a proper bike shop fit a chain on one of bikes because I didn't have the right tools. One snapped chain £130 and one broken drive shaft £650 later it can be hard to find a good workshop. At least if you are doing it yourself you take your time and double check everything.

So far on this bike I have managed to change all the filters, oil and done the tappets. It sounds nice and quiet now and given me confidence for the future.

The bike still works okay regarding the clutch and the clutch feels beetr than many other bikes I was looking at when looking to buy. A lot of 1150s seemed to have very flat feeling clutches. Mine at least seem springy, much like a cable clutch.

Can anyone recomend a source for a good BMW 1150 manual?

 

[AndrewD]

I will get there eventually. I wanted to learn how to service these things as I have a few bikes to keep on the road and costs have to be cut somewhere.

I suffer a little from OCD and need to know that something is working correctly.

I did have a proper bike shop fit a chain on one of bikes because I didn't have the right tools. One snapped chain £130 and one broken drive shaft £650 later it can be hard to find a good workshop. At least if you are doing it yourself you take your time and double check everything.

So far on this bike I have managed to change all the filters, oil and done the tappets. It sounds nice and quiet now and given me confidence for the future.

The bike still works okay regarding the clutch and the clutch feels beetr than many other bikes I was looking at when looking to buy. A lot of 1150s seemed to have very flat feeling clutches. Mine at least seem springy, much like a cable clutch.

Can anyone recomend a source for a good BMW 1150 manual?

Clymer

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

I have bled the clutch. It wasn't too hard but I kept squirting DOT 4 everywhere.

Anyway the bike runs fine but initially the clutch would only work correctly on Lever setting number 3. I went back to it later and changed the setting to 2. That works better and the bite is less fierce. On setting 3 the bite would kick in after releasing the lever just a couple of millimeters.

Is there any way of adjusting the lever at the handlebar end to get the requisite 10mm of free play and therefore set the clutch right and be able to tell how much life its got left. As you would be able to with a cable clutch lever.

Only got the front brakes left to do but thats going to wait until i have a Mityvac or whatever else someone might suggest.

Firstly, the Mityvac is a great piece of kit and really helps with your hydraulic system maintenance; get the metal one because it lives in the garage and will get kicked or dropped sometime.

Where did you bleed your clutch? At the bleeder on the RHS of the subframe I presume and raised vertically. It should be fine from there but the Mityvac will really help because it's difficult to manage the fluid with that system on your own.

BTW, 10mm of freeplay is not my idea of a clutch levers' operational characteristics. They should be acting upon the clutch plate(s) with the merest of actuation of the lever. Stay with setting No 3 and you'll get used to it.

Clymer

Paynes manual isn't very good because it covers so many models and I want a factory manual now. I don't know if the Clymer is model specific or any more detailed.