clutch life

stumac

Guest
hello all just bought my first bmw its a 1998 r1100gs,problem is if im riding along at a steady 50mph and give it a handful of throttle the clutch will slip for a couple of seconds,could the clutch be going after 30K if sohow much do you reackon for a replacement my local dealer says £600!!!!is he right or does he know im a newbe??
 
Clutch life

:rob If it isn't adjusted properly it can give in that early or even earlier, as for the price thats about right as the bike gets broken in two. I sure someone on here will be able to give you the correct method in checking and adjusting the clutch, its that long ago since I had an 1100 I can't remember the correct way.

I hope its not knackered but if it is a ceramic one may be an option as its only money lol :aidan
 
thanks for reply,if anyone knows how to check and adjust the clutch please could they let me know. many thanks in advance
 
is there a chance that it may just need adjusted?forgot to mention after riding the bike when you get off it there is a slight smell that i think may be the clutch.
 
Hi and welcome to the forum, looking through the history of my 1998 1100 the standard clutch got to over 70 thou, YMMV. heres a link to some technical stuff
http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/index.shtml
also look in the font of all wisdom on this site and the G Spot over on ADVrider its got to be worth a read.

Stewart
 
my 1100GS 1995 clutch lasted around 68,000 miles

with the clutch the main thing is that ye have free play at the gearbox end of the bike..
this is so that the clutch wont bind.

there is an adjuster that is on the lever that has a lock nut and an adjusting bolt when you check this , the measurement is taken when the clutch cabe is taught , like its starting to engage..5 to 7mm free play at this end.

you measure the freeplay on the clutch leaver on the handlebar end ...
its hard to show you without pics , so like stuart says look at the stickys thread , all will be reveiled..

i have recently changed my clutch . this was around £170 ish from motorworks , but i did the job myself , no labor charge ..

i hate promoting things but if ye subscribe , ye will get yer money back ( in kind), with the amount of info and help on here .


ugg
 
ugg said:
arm leaver , they both move the clutch....:blast i was refering to the leaver on the gearbox side of the bike ...
Click to expand...

Think we both posted at the same time ugg - same conclusion though :thumb
 
yup as long as the lad gets sorted , its an expensive and labour intensive job to change a complete clutch, n its too cold out there to strip down a back end:(

ugg:thumb2
 
i just had a look at my clutch setting and ill try to explain the best i can so here goes.
at the lever it will pull in with no resistance about 5mm,at the arm it will push foward about 10mm with no resistance BUT even if i pull the lever in by 1mm the arm at the bottom will move or if i push the arm by even 1 or 2mm the lever at the handle bar pulls in ,so when you say "free play" are you meaning when you pull in the lever at the handle bar only slightly that the arm should not move until you pull in further?if so in that case i have no free play(or slack) in the cable.
am i making sence??
 
1100 clutch problems

Your mileage is about right for a seal failure on clutch pushrod shaft of gearbox.
When the seal behind the clutch pushrod lever fails, gear oil makes it's way down the pushrod & is centrifuged outwards onto the clutch plate.
Clutch then slips on hard acceleration, but not always. ( Temperature dependant)
If doing job yourself, do not buy bits until bike is dismantled.
When you remove clutch, if driven plate is oily, replace it only.
Pull out clutch pushrod. If it is oily, you have to strip the gearbox to every last component to replace the rear pushrod seal. if gearbox is heated to 100 degrees C, it is easily dismantled. If done cold, sealing faces will be damaged in the dismantling, & the shims will be scattered in the pulling. so do it hot.
Gearbox takes 6 hours to replace all seals in it.
I have not done a GS, only An RT so I cannot tell you how long to take out gearbox, but it is a lot quicker & easier than an RT. (24 hours to remove & replace gearbox)
Be cautioned, therefore, on current quotation, because you are likely faced with a gearbox strip as well, & dealer has not costed for this.

Regards Michael.

If you have any queries, email me at: mmcnamee@btconnect.com
 
as i read this , my eyes tell me ye have not much free play , but let another lad look at yer post , dont wana stear ye wrong way...

the way to check with the engine turned off, put bike on centre stand , put bike in 4th gear , and turn ye wheel , pull your clutch in when the wheel turnes , this is your biting point...
but this , i think wont measure your free play , its just to give ye an idea when the clutch is biting , and ye can see how far ye have pulled in you front clutch leaver.. (this is only a visual check , do the correct setting as per manual says)

"caution try not to knock the bike over whist doin this ..."or ill be in bother:blast

ugg
 
thanks myke what are you thoughts on my last post?could that be my problemwith no slack?
 
clutch problems

Yes it could be lack off free play.
(Forgot to mention - If there is oil on plate, clutch does not smell when it slips)
Easy to check free play.
Just try clutch lever for free play. Should move around 20mm at tip before you feel any resistance. If there is resistance ( pressure) right from start, adjust cable under rubber cover to right of lever to get free play.

I hope this works for you. It is a lot cheaper & easier than changing clutch.

Usually it is not neccesary to adjust clutch at gearbox end over the lifetime of a clutch. If the release arm is set correctly when first assembled, it should not need touched again until clutch is replaced.
Michael.
 
If, when you pull the clutch lever you are seeing 10mm movement at clutch arm before you feel the resistance of the clutch spring, then it sounds to me as if you do have some free play. As Steptoe says in the previous thread I posted above, the important thing is that there is some free play, otherwise your clutch isn't seeing the full pressure of the spring and it'll slip.

Take a look at the picture below - does yours have broadly similar measurements to those in the pic - it's 'Distance B' that's the important one.
 

Attachments

  • clutch1.jpg
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Myke Rocks said:
Your mileage is about right for a seal failure on clutch pushrod shaft of gearbox.

.
When you remove clutch, if driven plate is oily, replace it only.
l]
Click to expand...

Just because the bike only has 30K doesn't mean it's an oil seal failure. And never replace just the friction plate, you'll regret it in 4-5K miles unless your very lucky, and the small saving isn't worth the risk.

A bike with a badly adjusted clutch all it life and town riding can easily wear out a clutch in less than 20K.

Forget all the different measurements at the handle bar lever and the rear clucth lever.You'll only confuse yourself if your new to BMW's.

Simply make sure you have some play at the lever on the back of the gearbox i.e. hold the section where the clutch cable attaches to it, with your fingers can move the lever forward a couple of mm's ?. If you can then your clutch isn't slipping due to wrong adjustment.
 
stumac said:
at the lever it will pull in with no resistance about 5mm,at the arm it will push foward about 10mm with no resistance ??
Click to expand...

You've got play in the clutch arm, which is what you need.
The other play is in the cable, and even if this was tight it wouldn't cause clutch slip because you have 10mm of play in the rear arm.

Going by this info and your description your clutch is worn out.
 
Myke Rocks said:
Usually it is not neccesary to adjust clutch at gearbox end over the lifetime of a clutch. If the release arm is set correctly when first assembled, it should not need touched again until clutch is replaced.
Michael.
Click to expand...

The above statement is complete and utter bollox. Please ignore it.
 
stumac said:
is there a chance that it may just need adjusted?forgot to mention after riding the bike when you get off it there is a slight smell that i think may be the clutch.
Click to expand...



Stumac listen to steptoe...
If you want me to look at your moto
I'll be in Belfast thursday & friday its a 5 min
job to adjust...

ps ive fitted clutches many times :aidan
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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