clutch slip 1200 tc

tezz

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have a bit of an issue with the clutch letting go after the bike been stood over winter,when cold it seems not to bad but as it warms it gets worse .have checked the fluid and drained a bit out-bled the system -cant see any leaks around engine/gearbox joint .have removed starter and all seems ok if a bit rusty-have measured clutch at 5.5mm from the gap where starter lives.its only on 16k so shouldnt be worn .the only thing i can think of is oil contamination-have took slave cylinder of and the pushrod out so far and all is dry and clean -i do spray the bike regular with wd40 after washing etc .could this have got into the casing -the lever isnt fouling-any ideas ???
 
Make sure the clutch reservoir is not over full. After that you can look at the clutch with a spy camera tool if you take the starter motor out. There may be an oil leak.

There is also an access cover on top of the engine. But BMW design teams don't talk to each other so you cant get at it without removing the back subframe.
 
Do you have any oil dripping / wetting onto the bash plate? If so you might have either a crank or balancer shaft oil seal gone and oil contamination of the clutch plate. I had both go on my 2012 TC.
 
had a look at the reservior -not overfull and drained a bit out to be sure-starter out and it looks dry-a bit rusty - the only thing is when i took the slave cyl of it expands to max -ie piston goes all the way out as if a spring is pushing it out-it takes quite a bit of pressure to get it back again so this must be putting a bit of pressure on the pushrod constantly-any one else have experiance of this ??? -think i know what ill end up doing as i have a feeling its oil on the plate just curious as to why there is the pressure on the pushrod-
 
- the only thing is when i took the slave cyl of it expands to max -ie piston goes all the way out as if a spring is pushing it out-

That's because a spring is pushing it out :D It's meant to.
 
thanks steptoe-i thought it was but you look for all silly things to try and put of the inevitable.will have to read up on where to start on fitting a new clutch and seals -wish i knew of the problem before winter -
 
The full clutch is very costly but a driven plate only is reasonable.
The bike had to be split in half to change the clutch. This is no small job, but sounds much worse than it actually is.
 
thanks bendy-if it is oil on clutch -it can only be that as iv done 13 of the 16k miles and not abused it at all-can i replace seals and friction plate then clean all the other bits to reuse again -at the low miles they shouldnt be worn-
 
Its probably just light glazing of the friction plate surface.
 
tnx puk if it is glazed how do i deal with that -the more it slips- the more it will glaze i imagine
 


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