Clutch Slip - help !

[Richard P]

The clutch on my 12,500 mile 1150GS has started to slip but only when I cane the engine.

The clutch works fine when the engine is at normal temperature and unstressed but if I give it the jelly - 7500 in 3rd / 4th (it has a vile flat spot between 5 and 6,000) for a mile or so then slow down for a junction, the clutch slips in the lower gears but works normally again after a mile or so of sedate riding.

Is this a sign of an impending terminal problem?

Asside from "don't cane it" is there a cure that doesn't involve replacing the whole thing?

thanks in advance
Richard

 

[sani]

The clutch on my 12,500 mile 1150GS has started to slip but only when I cane the engine.

The clutch works fine when the engine is at normal temperature and unstressed but if I give it the jelly - 7500 in 3rd / 4th (it has a vile flat spot between 5 and 6,000) for a mile or so then slow down for a junction, the clutch slips in the lower gears but works normally again after a mile or so of sedate riding.

Is this a sign of an impending terminal problem?

Asside from "don't cane it" is there a cure that doesn't involve replacing the whole thing?

thanks in advance
Richard

I dont know but 7500 in 3rd /4th is to much
I never give more than 5000 to my bike

 

[nunesaf]

The clutch on my 12,500 mile 1150GS has started to slip but only when I cane the engine.

The clutch works fine when the engine is at normal temperature and unstressed but if I give it the jelly - 7500 in 3rd / 4th (it has a vile flat spot between 5 and 6,000) for a mile or so then slow down for a junction, the clutch slips in the lower gears but works normally again after a mile or so of sedate riding.

Is this a sign of an impending terminal problem?

Asside from "don't cane it" is there a cure that doesn't involve replacing the whole thing?

thanks in advance
Richard

Check the fluid level first - it may be too high.

Otherwise you may have your clutch contaminated with oil. Remove the starter and see if there are any traces of oil (a bit difficult though...).

 

[Richard P]

Yes I thoght some of the advice would be don't do it, but as I say, the revs are to get it past the flat spot.

 

[Richard P]

I'll look at fluid level tomorrow - I did change the fluid yesterday as it had been suggested that there may be watet in it.

The fluid change itself didn't appear to help ut interestingly the bite point is a little different

 

[Colban]

Flat spots aren't usually a problem.
Is the bike twin or single spark?.
Std exhaust set up or Remus?.

 

[Steptoe]

The clutch on my 12,500 mile 1150GS has started to slip but only when I cane the engine.

"Caning" the engine ( and pulling wheelies) also leads to the shaft slipping in it's rubber damper -

Same symptoms as a slipping clutch, i have a bike with the exact same problem in the workshop at the moment, a slipping shaft.

 

[BegesRus]

Try Clutch Lever fouling on the hand guards - does not fully engage and slips - rotate the guards

 

[Richard P]

Clutch ?? problem

Sorry for delay in replying to the advice -- it has been one of those weeks

Reference the enquiry as to the exhaust set up, it is a Laser and Y piece, there is a sensor in the Y piece. There was no CAT connector fitted when I got the bike. I have tried Steptoe's wire link but that didn't do anything.

Reference the comment about the shaft slipping in the rubber mount, is that potentialy terminal and would that explain why it seems to rectify itself when I have slowed down for a while ?????

Reference the lever fouling the guard - unfortunately not

 

[Carl]

I dont know but 7500 in 3rd /4th is to much
I never give more than 5000 to my bike

Sani is right

Peak power is about 6,500 and peak torque around 5,500 IIRC, so theres no need to rev it to the red line. Use the gears.

I dont rev mine much above 5,500 because it starts to get rough at those engine speeds.