Colorado - Paradox, Bedrock & Bears

[MikeO]

30th August

I wake early to a beautiful, cloudless morning. I’m packed and ready for the road by 0830, when I meet Mike…

…who is living in Moab for a while, but has been travelling the USA for years. The older of his two dogs (the German Shepherd) has covered over 5000 miles, from Minnesota to the Oregon coast. The dogs carry their own food in their panniers and are as happy as any animals I’ve seen. I don’t know how old Mike is, but he is as fit as a fiddle and a great character…

I ride down the 191, then turn left along the 46 at LaSal Junction. Shortly after 1000, I enter Colorado, and the 46 becomes Colorado 90. I stop for a look around at the intriguingly named Paradox, to find this old lady waiting for a makeover…

…judging by the similar ‘donor’ car rotting away in the owner’s yard, restoration may be on the cards…

Further down the road is the town of Bedrock…

…but, in the absence of Fred, Wilma or Barney, Bettie and I continue along Colorado 90.

Soon I’m turning left along the Y11 Road, which follows the San Miguel River through the Dolores Canyon. It’s a good, well maintained gravel road…

and I’m making good progress when suddenly, shockingly, a black bear breaks cover to my left and runs across the road and up the hill to my right. I watch as it climbs up into the undergrowth and disappears. I’m guessing it crossed the road about twenty metres in front of the bike. Fantastic – the first wild bear I’ve seen on the trip. I’d guess he’d be about five feet tall if he stood up (he was on all fours as he ran). I ride on.

A little further on, I notice evidence of a structure set into the opposite rock wall of the canyon…

It turns out to be the remains of a ‘Hanging Flume’ – a five mile long water-supply built between 1888 and 1891, to provide water for ‘sluice mining’ gold. The mine was not a success, and the remnants of the flume – an amazing engineering feat – is all that remains…

I cross the river and start heading back on the opposite bank, along the 141 towards Grand Junction. I pull over – trying to guess where I’d seen the bear.

To my surprise, looking down to the gravel road, I see him walking along, about a quarter of a mile away. Before I can get my camera out, he seems to sense my presence and, after a glance up at me, climbs into the undergrowth on the hillside again and vanishes. I wait for a few minutes, but he’s gone.

I reluctantly get back on the bike and set off towards Grand Junction. The 141 is an excellent road, winding through spectacular hills and mesas…

The landscape is interesting. The hillside to my left – south-facing slopes – is similar to the arid desert hills in Utah…

…whereas, directly opposite, the north-facing slopes are covered in coniferous trees and have a distinctly alpine appearance…

I get into Grand Junction, checking into the Super 8 Motel – tomorrow I’m getting an oil change done at All Sports, the local BMW dealer. Then I’ll decide where to go next…

 

[MikeO]

31st August

I wake early and I’m on the road for 0845. This morning, I’m getting an oil & filter change done on the Adv. I arrive at Allsports BMW & Honda at 0900 and I’m riding out again at 0945 – job done…

I now retrace my steps for a few miles. I head back down the 50 to Whitewater, where I turn right onto the 141, following the route I travelled yesterday.

The road follows the Unaweep Canyon – this is Thimble Rock. At the base is what used to be Driggs Mansion.

Built in the early 1900s, it took over 4 years to complete, as access to the site was difficult and the Driggs family (wealthy local landowners) camped at the site during construction.

When it was eventually finished, the Driggs family lived in it for a matter of weeks, before moving away from the area, after which it eventually fell into disrepair…

I pause at the overlook to look for the bear I saw yesterday, but Yogi’s obviously raiding picnic baskets elsewhere…

I stop for lunch at Redvale, then head on towards Telluride, my intended destination for today. The rain clouds on the horizon seem to be dumping their contents on the mountains surrounding the town, unfortunately…

The rain doesn’t seem to have affected the local residents, though…

I ride down the side of the San Miguel River valley, the road cut into the side of the hill…

…and, after a beautiful ride along the valley floor, I arrive in Telluride…

…which turns out to be a ski resort. It has a 15mph speed limit through the main street, more wine bars, alternative healing centres, tofu retailers and open air cafés than Manhattan.

I dislike everything about it.

I’m tired, though, so find a room in a strange little apartment complex...

Someone else is moving in – the name of the removals firm suggests that I’m in the right place*…

I walk around town and, if anything, get to dislike it more – it’s such an artificial and expensive place – I just can’t warm to it, although its surroundings are undeniably beautiful.

I turn in early.

*this reference may be lost on all those who do not read the ADVRider site – sorry …