Creaky\stiff Clutch release?

cartejo5

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Morning Folks, I wonder if you can help - i've 93 100 gs pd 55k ish. The problem I'm experiencing is when I first ride off or when the bike is cold the clutch actuation feels ok at the lever (light and smooth) when you engage and release the lever however once the bikes done a few miles when you pull the clutch lever in and release it feels really stiff and jerky\gritty almost like the cables frayed or needs replacing. I've checked the cable and it looks like brand new and as previously stated when the bikes cold or stood in the garage feels absolutely fine - any ideas on what this may be?

Thanks for your help.
John

PS: i've done a search but can't find anything on this topic.
 
At the back of the gearbox is the clutch actuating arm..held by a 6 mm bolt. Disconnect the cable and remove the arm. If there is a rubber boot over the end of the arm ( small screw holds it on ) then remove boot and you will be able to remove a bearing from here...then you will see a pushrod peeping out the back of the gear box..pull this out as well. grease the rod and bearing, then re-assemble everything back. Should be OK now :thumb

Right Horseshoe Pass for about 1.00 pm on my xtz660 tenere' shortly :)
 
Sounds like the clutch thrust piston/bearing.

At the back of the gearbox behind the clutch lever and rubber gaitor.

They wear, and one of the symptoms is as you describe. The other is the thrust piston seizing in the gearbox tunnel once the engine gets hot, so you can't release the clutch. As the engine cools, you hear it bang as it releases.
 
you will be able to remove a bearing from here...then you will see a pushrod peeping out the back of the gear box..pull this out as well. grease the rod and bearing, then re-assemble everything back. Should be OK now :thumb

Right Horseshoe Pass for about 1.00 pm on my xtz660 tenere' shortly :)

The later bikes have a one piece piston/thrust unit. Not much can be done if it's fecked.
 
Cheers guys i'll have a look this afternoon is it possible to do this without stripping out the battery box etc?
 
If the lubrication doesn't help, you'll have to machine the rod down to the right specs. I've heard about the rod swelling after many years and seizing in the gearbox. See if you can take it out when it's hot and measure the diameter. I'm not sure what the exact diameter supposed to be, but I'm sure you'll find it somewhere on the forum or on the net.
 
Correct adjustment

I might be stating the bleedin' obvious, but have you checked the adjustment is correct? The reason I say this is I had exactly the same issues not long after buying the bike. I checked the distance from the actuating arm to the other bit :D further up which I think should be 302mm if my memory serves me correctly. Once this was set up properly hey presto no more sticking. The correct procedure is all in the manual (all described better than my inane witterings!). It didn't occur to me at first because it is different to any other bke I'd owned. Just thought I'd get me 2 penneth in before you might start machining etc. Good luck!
 
Morning folks, thanks for all the tips. I had a look at it yesterday took the thrust bearing piston thing out (one piece) seemed ok bearing was smooth and the piston seemed free enough in the housing. so copa slipped it up and reassembled it while the cable and that was off checked and lubed the cable and reset the adjustment to factory settings. I've never ridden it but it feels slightly smoother at the lever - one thing I did notice was in the bar lever mounting there was a felt pad which looked like it had been wrapped around the cable, i've left it out is that likely to cause any problems?

Re the push rod that would not come out of the housing looking at the manual i'm not sure that you can remove it without first removing the housing?
 
My R80RT is in bits at the moment while I tidy up the back end.

During routine clutch maintenance I found that the push rod wouldn't come out easily. I got it out eventually and found that it had seized/rusted to the clutch pressure plate. I cleaned it all up and 'coppaslipped' it and it feels fine now. The bike has been standing for a couple of weeks so this might not be the cause of your problems but I thought it worth a mention.

(I should mention that I have the swing arm out of the frame - I'm not sure if the pushrod will come out with the swing arm in place).

The felt pad goes around the cable just inside the adjuster - it shouldn't reach the lever ! give it a spot of oil and it will keep water out of the cable.

Hope this helps.

Bob.
 
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almosst certainly the clutch thrust piston is the problem,you should not lubricate the plastic piston with oil, it should be dry,when it gets contaminated with oil this is why it swells up and drags,when you get the part out, either machine it down slightly on a lathe, or carefully rub it down with some fine emery paper
 
Well its fair to say that my efforts have resulted in a dismal failure leaving me stranded this afternoon until the bike cooled down and the bearing clanged back into place. :(

It would have been bad enough if i was on my own but my significantly better half had come out for the ride (1st time this year!).:mmmm

A couple of questions please gents.

Is it possible to remove the clutch push rod with the engine and swingarm in situ?

It is a plastic one piece unit I noticed when i initially took it out that there was oil and water in the bearing housing does this signify some other problem, or is it normal?

Finally taking R1oogser's advice how much should you remove from the bearing?

Thanks for your help\comments.

Cheers
John
 
Well its fair to say that my efforts have resulted in a dismal failure leaving me stranded this afternoon until the bike cooled down and the bearing clanged back into place. :(

It would have been bad enough if i was on my own but my significantly better half had come out for the ride (1st time this year!).:mmmm

A couple of questions please gents.

Is it possible to remove the clutch push rod with the engine and swingarm in situ?

It is a plastic one piece unit I noticed when i initially took it out that there was oil and water in the bearing housing does this signify some other problem, or is it normal?

Finally taking R1oogser's advice how much should you remove from the bearing?

Thanks for your help\comments.

Cheers
John
 
hi you don't remove any thing from the bearing, just a small ammount from the plastic piston (it looks a bit like a cotton spool) remove just enough to stop it sticking, or you can buy a new bearing and piston for about £30, if the oil in your gearbox is not contaminated with water, the oil and water you refer to is probably splashed oil and condesaion or the rubber boot over the clutch pushrod enter could be allowing a bit of water in, the problems you are having are not to uncommon...so dont worry....the most it will cost you if you cant sort it by sanding a bit of the piston is about £35, ps while you are at it grease the clutch activation arm ( the bit the cable attaches to) there is a small bearing it pivots on that can cause grief if it siezes.......good luck
 
be careful if "sanding" down the thrust piston. To much and tilts in the casing tunnel causing it to stick, so it's back to the original problem.

What you really need is the post 81 set up. Ali thrust piston, seperate large roller bearing and thrust washer. Never used to give any problems whatsoever.
 
Cheers guys, I gave the thrust piston a light rub over so its loose in the housing but not overly so and took it out last night did about 50 miles some at high speed and it seemed fine ..... fingers crossed.
Re the old style Ali piston and bearing, will these fit if so where can you get them i checked motobins and motorworks they only seem to supply the placcy one piece units, this is more for info as if its working Ok I'll just leave it but just in case.

Thanks again.

John
 


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