Cylinder head Overhaul

Rob Farmer

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As we all know the airhead engine is a superb, robust engine. One of the problem areas on higher mileage engines is the valves. I'm just in the process of refurbing my 78 R100 engine, there are a few minor differences between these heads and the later GS engines but essentially they can be regarded as being the same when it comes to working on them and cleaning them up.

This is a high mileage engine thats started to feel a little breathless, it still runs well but has been lacking a bit of zip and not ticking over as well as it should.

It's a very easy task to pull the heads off - this is what you are left with. A pretty grubby lump of metal with 30 years of grime encrusted into it.

Head1.jpg


The carbon build up is obvious. Multiple layers have built up on the valves and the combustion chamber.

Head2.jpg



You need a valve spring compressor to release the collets and remove the springs, once these are out everything becomes clear - There is so much carbon on the exhaust valve and in the exhaust port that the valve is not shutting fully.

Head3.jpg


The exhaust valves in poor shape. The contact point between the valve and the valve seat is burnt and pitted.

Head4.jpg



This picture shows the contrast between the inlet and exhaust ports. The inlets obviously on the left and is in surprisingly good condition compared to the exhaust.

Head5.jpg


The head of the exhaust valves can snap off, taking out the cylinder head, barrels and pistons. The recommended interval between valve overhauls is 40 - 50k. The valve heads are welded on, when you see how the carbon builds up it's easy to imagine the stress placed on the valve.

Head6.jpg


The valve guides on this engine have play in them and need replacing. Replacing valve guides needs specialist kit so I'm shipping mine off to SEP for the work to be done. Before they go off I need to know if the valve seats are serviceable. Fit the new valves and give them a gentle grind using a grinding stick and paste (£3 from halfords) - These seats are fine.

I'm lucky because I have access to a bead blaster at work, a few minutes at lunchtime does wonders for the cylinder heads.

Head7.jpg


Once the guides have been fitted The heads can go back together - shouldn't have to worry about it again for another 50k :)

Motobins supplied the complete valve replacement kit. 4 genuine valves, 4 new springs, collets and 4 valve guides for £81. Having the guides fitted is going to be in the region of £60.

Head9.jpg
 
THANK YOU . .

. . nicely laid out, Rob, but I have to do the Norton forks first, when I can crank up the motivation, which has been sadly lacking, this while back . .
 
Fantastic Rob:bow

Thanks so much for taking the time. Really is much appreciated. This page is now saved as a web archive on my 'puter ready for when it comes time to do this with mine.

One question, did you need a certain valve spring compressor, or will any valve spring compressor do?
 
I've got one of those cheapies from Halfords. It literally takes seconds to whip the valve springs off that's why I didn't bother posting a pic.
 
The valve seats don't need re cutting. I won't know for sure how much it's going to be until I take them in. The recommended way of doing the valve guides is to mill each guide down to the circlip, heat the head up and then knock the guide into the port. It could be I was quoted for them supplying the guides as well.
 
The valve seats don't need re cutting. I won't know for sure how much it's going to be until I take them in. The recommended way of doing the valve guides is to mill each guide down to the circlip, heat the head up and then knock the guide into the port. It could be I was quoted for them supplying the guides as well.

I beg to differ Rob but the new valves come with two angles on them and the seats need recutting to both angles.
Well mine did anyway :(
Also I've replaced valve guides my self. you used to be able to get oversize ones depending on wear in the head 'ole .
When refitting, heat Head to Gas mark 9 in t' oven after freezing the valve guide overnight .
use a mandrel down center of valve guide and mine dropped in right up to the circlip [pre fitted] 30 second later and the buggers were as tight as a duck arse...
Still running smoothly 30 k miles on :thumb2
 
You still can get oversized ones Proff.

I can't find any reference to two angles on the valves, just a single 45°. on the Paralevers they changed the angle to 30°. I haven't got a mandrel or valve cutting gear so I'm quite happy to pay £60 to get them sorted.

Thinking about the cost for the valve guide fitting. It must include seat grinding because the seats are going to have to be ground to suit.
 

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When I had mine done, instead of fitting new guides the system used was to drill through the existing guide then fitting a special insert which is then "reamed" to the correct size by firing a special bearing through it. The tolerances are less and the new valves fit better with less chance of oil loss. the beauty is also that it can be done over again without disturbing the valve guide in the head, thus preventing damage to the head. This system has been around for many years now and is common with HGV's and in the racing industry. Cost! mine were done for £40 though this was a bit of a favour ( both heads) and the valve seats were also recut using a computer operating through the guide. no grinding in was required either. The difference in the performance has been fantastic.
I do suggest you ask about this system, its quick, no risk of damage to the head and I would think cheaper. :augie
There is a name for this system but for the life of me I cant remember it. It has been posted on the site before though.:blast
Nice pics by the way and at last a proper use of this section.:rob
 
Rob,

When I was new to airheads, I heard about the potential for dropping valve heads at around 36K onwards and was planning on replacing the valves in my two bikes.

Then I read (in the 'hints and tips' in the Motobins catalogue) that the problem with valve heads snapping is caused by wear in the guides - allowing the valve to clatter the edge of the seat.

I stripped my two airheads at around 40K and both had a lot of play in the exhaust guides. The inlets were fine.

I replaced all the guides and valves as a precaution.

You're not suggesting that valves can be changed in isolation, but I just wanted to emphasise that you can't really do valves without guides (or vice-versa).


Bob.
 
Bit of an update.

The exhaust valve seats have receded to far to be cut properly so I need new unleaded exhaust valve seats and my own 4 new valve quides fitting. Total cost from SEP is £110. Total cost including the new valves, springs etc is the best part of £200.
 
While you are on about this stuff Prof, will my 90s need to be done for unleaded?, last on the road in 89....
Cheers. Lyn.
 
While you are on about this stuff Prof, will my 90s need to be done for unleaded?, last on the road in 89....
Cheers. Lyn.

IIRC unleaded came in in 1986, but 4 star was available for a good few years after that so it might have been converted, it might not. I believe lead replacement additives are still available.

If you do have to change the valves & seats, don't forget you'll need to adjust the timing as well due to the change in octane number.

I hope this helps. :blast
 
While you are on about this stuff Prof, will my 90s need to be done for unleaded?, last on the road in 89....
Cheers. Lyn.

Hi Will.
Having owned my R90s for 28 years, I know the heads ain't been converted, nor are they going to be.
I use Castrol additive, 1 sachet to a tankfull, no probs :thumb2
My R80g/s [Gertie ] has not been done either and I will only think of doing it when I have evidence of valve seat recession. ie Valve clearances closing up.
Gertie runs only on unleaded, 90% of the time without a sachet of Castrol Additive

I think St Eptoe came to the same conclusion, that if they don't start receding, the're going to be ok :thumb2

I do have around 200 syringes of additive, all bought off of Ebay @ stupidly low prices :D

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CASTROL-VALVE...oryZ9903QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Sometimes it's even cheaper than that :augie
 


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