Digital Display US

[KevinW]

I'm currently sitting in a hotel in Slovenia where it is absolutely pouring with rain; nice roads though .

Just before I left I had an alarm and HID fitted and that seems to have disturbed something relating to the digital display. Not long after I pulled away from the workshop I realised something was amiss and went back. There are three plugs underneath the tank (actually, thinking about it there might be two tiers making six but, if there are let's just concentrate on the top three). The mechanic disconnected then reconnected the rh plug, the display came back and off I went. The following day it happened again twice and I was able to repeat the trick. Unfortunately I had no time to take it back to the workshop before we left.

I originally thought there was something wrong with the plug but I can see nothing wrong with it and, thinking about it some more, I've come to the conclusion all that is doing is removing the power and resetting the display and the fault is somewhere else (I could be wrong of course).

Anyway, the display was 'gone' again this morning (no temperature or fuel gauges, no gear indicator, clock displaying a time but static). I did the usual diconnect/reconnect trick with the plug which resolved the issue, put the tank back on, turned the ignition back on and now have a different issue with the display - fuel and temperature guages are full with a few bars missing in the middle, gear indicator shows zero, clock static and they remain on even with the ignition off.

I'll have a look in the morning and, if I can't see the issue, will see if there's a BM dealer in Ljubljana who can help (which is more than the one in Innsbruck could do this morning).

The display was working perfectly before I had the alarm and HID fitted so I think it's a wiring issue rather than something wrong with the display unit itself. Do you have any idea what it might be to help me troubleshoot in the morning?

I realise I can do without the display if I have to but we're three days into a 5 week trip so it would be good if I can get it sorted.

Thanks.

Kevin

 

[Nick Marshall]

dont worry mate

it will be the HID ballast or wiring too close to the RID. (rider info display) Move it away from the RID and it should be ok. Same thing happened to me when i fitted a pair of the slim ballast HID`s. The small boxes in the leads had to be moved. No problems since then.

 

[KevinW]

Thanks very much Nick, that'll be the first thing I do in the morning (well, after breakfast!).

Kevin

 

[KevinW]

When I opened it up the ballast had been placed directly behind the RID (so that's what it's called!). I've now moved it, reset the display and, while I haven't ridden today, the clock is displaying the correct time so I'm pretty confident that has resolved the problem; time will tell.

Thanks again Nick, I wouldn't ever have guessed that was the cause.

Kevin

 

[Nick Marshall]

great

When I opened it up the ballast had been placed directly behind the RID (so that's what it's called!). I've now moved it, reset the display and, while I haven't ridden today, the clock is displaying the correct time so I'm pretty confident that has resolved the problem; time will tell.

Thanks again Nick, I wouldn't ever have guessed that was the cause.

Kevin

glad you were able to sort it, hate to think what some dealers might have charged! aint it great that with the help of this site and a computer you got it sorted quickly and for free.

 

[KevinW]

Unfortunately it failed again today. I don't think it can be the ballast as that is now right over the other side of the instrument console.

I'd turned the ignition off loads of times as we were stuck in a major traffic jam following an accident in Ljubljana and these things really don't like getting hot do they. That didn't affect the RID at all but when I turned it on again after I filled it with petrol some time later it was blank again so I'm wondering if there is something amiss under the tank.

As an aside, is there a better way to kill power to the RID other than via the somewhat inaccessible plug under the tank?

Kevin

 

[nunesaf]

Unfortunately it failed again today. I don't think it can be the ballast as that is now right over the other side of the instrument console.

I'd turned the ignition off loads of times as we were stuck in a major traffic jam following an accident in Ljubljana and these things really don't like getting hot do they. That didn't affect the RID at all but when I turned it on again after I filled it with petrol some time later it was blank again so I'm wondering if there is something amiss under the tank.

As an aside, is there a better way to kill power to the RID other than via the somewhat inaccessible plug under the tank?

Kevin

I can unplug it without removing the tank... just remove the rhd fairing and pull out the wires and have access to the plug. It is not totally accessible but manageable.

Next time you open / remove the tank, see if you can tweak the wires so it becomes more accessible.

in regard to your anomaly, i suggest you check (aka WD40 and cleaning) the following electrical contacts:
- RID panel
- fuse #3 (counting from the lhd to the rhd)
hope this helps

 

[jonesai]

In regard to your anomaly, i suggest you check (aka WD40 and cleaning) the following electrical contacts:
- RID panel
- fuse #3 (counting from the lhd to the rhd)
hope this helps

Or try replacing the fuse - it may be it that is faulty onyack

 

[Rhino]

rather than pulling the coecotr apart pulling the fuse will do the same thing. I had exactly the same thing. Manged to get a new rid out of the dealer still happened. The rid would lock up and the clock would stop. I moved the balast down the side of the beak and made sure the wires for the hids ran along the outisde of the fairing and that has cured it. You need to get all the hid wiring out form behind the silver shroud as I get a feeling the RID has no shield from electrical interferance at all.

Way to prove its the HID is to turn the lights off before turning the igntion on. I f I rode withthe lights off didnt have a problem. Turned em on and a few swaps from low to hi or flashing the high beam and the RID locked up.

Dues you want is the 2nd or 3rd form the left as you sit on the bike. You will soon find it as the clock will go off when you pull it.

 

[KevinW]

Thanks all. As Rhino said, pulling the fuse is the easiest way to reset the RID and that's what I did this morning (it would have been easier if I hadn't been clumsy enough to break the seat catch just before we left...).

We're heading for Dubrovnik today and staying there for a couple of days so I'll have a go at rerouting the HID wiring there.

Kevin

 

[Rhino]

which HIF kit do you have ? If its one of Colbatch's wopnderfull 50w thin ones you can squeeze the ballast down between the beak mount and the beak n the left or right hand side where the air vents are. Then cable tie the wires for the hid along the left or right hand support along the inside of the beak. Keeps it all away form the wiring loom which runs along the support form the headstock.
What causes the RID to look up is the interferance from the HID when it ignites. 20,000v spark and all is bound to send out an emp.

 

[KevinW]

which HID kit do you have ?

(a somewhat belated reply as I was waiting to see how it went)

It's one I bought from Les Wassall of this parish and the ballast does seem very thin. I shouldn't tempt fate but the RID has ony seized twice since I last posted so I've left it alone and will reroute the wiring when we get back.

Kevin

 

[Rhino]

(a somewhat belated reply as I was waiting to see how it went)

It's one I bought from Les Wassall of this parish and the ballast does seem very thin. I shouldn't tempt fate but the RID has ony seized twice since I last posted so I've left it alone and will reroute the wiring when we get back.

Kevin

AYe they are the ones that Colbach suplies. Move the silver box and fix it inside the beak and then route the cables along the frame for the beak. I did this and ahve never had another problem with My RID