DRZ400-S Mukuni float valve

[scots_jon]

Hi all,
Those of you that have been out onthe trail with me may have noticed the DRZ's habit of pissing petrol out of the overflow. I've finally got round to doing somehtign baout it and will be replacing the carb float valve. The steelers want forty quid for one so I'm trying to get one direct from a Mikuni dealer. Thing is I don't know excatly which one I need and didn't want to take the bike to bits ato look and then leave it that way until the part arrives.

The delaer has given me a list of options here, any idea which one I need?

As usual, thanks in advance!

Jon.

 

[snoopy]

Yeah the float sometimes gets stuck when the bike has been on its side. Easy fix just turn the petrol off wait till it stops then drop the bike on the opposite side ensuring the handlebar "hits" the ground lightly. Turn petrol back on and all sorted.

If your serious about trails and don't use it on the road you'd fit an 'E' FCR carb anyway.

 

[alimey4u2]

Bike bandit has the best parts lists for Japanese bikes. Used their site to research the correct component...

www.bikebandit.com

 

[scots_jon]

Yeah the float sometimes gets stuck when the bike has been on its side. Easy fix just turn the petrol off wait till it stops then drop the bike on the opposite side ensuring the handlebar "hits" the ground lightly. Turn petrol back on and all sorted.

If your serious about trails and don't use it on the road you'd fit an 'E' FCR carb anyway.

I'm planning on getting an FCR when funds allow. Why do you say not to use an FCR if you use the bike on the road? The only road work I do is to/from and between trails, but I'm curious to the reason.

Cheers,
Jon.

 

[snoopy]

You can, but expect a good 15mpg drop (i had one...) I meant for commuting etc.

A.

 

[scots_jon]

You can, but expect a good 15mpg drop (i had one...) I meant for commuting etc.

A.

Considering that it is currently pissing about a pint an hour out of the overflow, I think I can live with a 15mpg drop. Now I just need to find one, there are loafdson ebay I'm a bit confused by the options though. Is it best to go for one form a DRZ or will one form any bike do if suitably jetted?

Cheers,
Jon

 

[alimey4u2]

Are you sure the float is doing its job of "floating"...

 

[david a hall]

the rubber tip wears a bit and dosent seal properly, before i replace it id take it out and have a look, sometimes tuning it through 180 degs can fix it, the other posibility could be a bit of shit in there just preventing it sealing when the float is up,remove the carb turn it upside down on a clean cloth and remove the float bowl,(take a photo if you have never done it before) and then remove jets one at a time, hold them upto the light and look throug them you should see a perect circle, if you dont then there are to ways to clean them, by blast ing them with an air line or using the bristle of a wire brush, i use the later, people say that will damage the jet but thats v unlikely in my opinion.replace the jets and then remove the float by sliding out the pivot pin the carbvale will come off with the float, inspect it for wear and clean the hole that it goes into , either with compressd air or with a tin of carb cleaner, put it all back together and you will think you have a new bike, only replace carb valve if its obvously worn. sorry if im telling you stuff you alredy know i need the typing practice

 

[snoopy]

Thumpertalk is your friend for 'E' carb info. Incidently my S has also started pissing fuel out again so I've stuck an M5 bolt up the tube and problem solved.

 

[alimey4u2]

Incidently my S has also started pissing fuel out again so I've stuck an M5 bolt up the tube and problem solved.

Anyone heard the term "Hydrolock"..