Electricial nightmare.

[North]

Here's the story (05 1200GS)

The low beam bulb burnt out, so I replaced it. Rode the bike around and all was fine.

Today I got up to ride down to a Bike shop in the USA to get stuff for my Husky. I turn the bike on and all the 4-way flashers came on. They stay on for a good 30 seconds and than stopped. Than the left turn signals flashed a couple of times and than stopped.

I started the bike up and the battery icon came on for a couple of seconds and than it went away. The left turn signals will not work. The right ones work only if I hold them on.

I turned the heated grips on low and the left turn signals come on and stay on. They did not stop. I put the heated grips on high and the left turn signals stopped. Only the right heated grip, heats up on the low setting. When I turned the heated grips off, the left turn signals came back on for 30 seconds and than they turned off.

When I turn the bike off, the front pilot light stays on for a bit and then goes off.

Any thought?

Thanks

Rick

 

[Pukmeister]

Here's the story (05 1200GS)

The low beam bulb burnt out, so I replaced it. Rode the bike around and all was fine.

Based on the fact the bike was OK afterwards, I doubt its the lamp. Maybe worth re-checking to eliminate it, pay particular attention to the lamp holder not earthing out anywhere, chafed wiring etc..

Today I got up to ride down to a Bike shop in the USA to get stuff for my Husky. I turn the bike on and all the 4-way flashers came on. They stay on for a good 30 seconds and than stopped. Than the left turn signals flashed a couple of times and than stopped.

I started the bike up and the battery icon came on for a couple of seconds and than it went away. The left turn signals will not work. The right ones work only if I hold them on.

I turned the heated grips on low and the left turn signals come on and stay on. They did not stop. I put the heated grips on high and the left turn signals stopped. Only the right heated grip, heats up on the low setting. When I turned the heated grips off, the left turn signals came back on for 30 seconds and than they turned off.

When I turn the bike off, the front pilot light stays on for a bit and then goes off.

Any thought?

Thanks

Rick

Thoughts:

1) Is the bikes battery on the way out? Are the battery terminals loose? What is the battery terminal voltage?

2) Short circuit?

3) Water ingress into handlebar switchgear, causing CPU to have false requests to operate ancillaries/accessories.

4) Electronic controller module failure (CPU).

Advice:

1) Check your battery voltage across the terminals with a multimeter. Should be over 12 volts. Try an optimate or similar to ensure battery is fully charged.
2) Check battery terminals are tight.
3) Spray handlebar switchgear with a water dispersal fluid eg WD40.
4) Read fault codes with a GS911, or get it to a BMW dealer for a diagnostic check with a GT1 computer.

Can't think of anything else, sorry but I'm no expert. Good luck.

 

[North]

Thanks for the advice Adam.

I checked the last thing I did, which was mount my ram mount for the trip. I did it after work last night. I mounted it right by the left hand grip. Right over the wires going into hand grip switch.

I took it off and freed up the wires and all is good.

Thanks

Rick

 

[Pukmeister]

So glad it was easily sorted, however you might now want to check the wiring for damage or future risk of short circuit if it has been crimped by your ram mount.

You don't want to be miles from home with an electrical problem (been there myself, no fun at all).

 

[North]

So glad it was easily sorted, however you might now want to check the wiring for damage or future risk of short circuit if it has been crimped by your ram mount.

You don't want to be miles from home with an electrical problem (been there myself, no fun at all).

You are right, the left hand heated grip stopped working already. I am going to see if I can get new wiring or else just splice it.

Thanks

Rick

 

[North]

I checked the wires and all of them are bent and couple broke when I touched them. I had to buy the whole left hand switch. 330 Canadian dollars.

Well, that taught me a lesson.

 

[North]

Well, here's an update on my sad story.

The switch that cost 300 dollars was just a switch, no wires. They told me that I have to order the whole boody wiring harness. At a cost of 1,500 dollars. Are they F#%kin nuts?

The wires are too fine for me to work on. So I will bring the Bike to the shop who works on my Husky. They will splice into the wires and reconnect them.

 

[MikeP]

The switch that cost 300 dollars was just a switch, no wires. They told me that I have to order the whole boody wiring harness. At a cost of 1,500 dollars. Are they F#%kin nuts?

I know nothing about the 1200 (except that it's the CanBus that scares me) but isn't there a sub-loom?

I can't believe that one small section failure/damage means a whole loom.

 

[North]

I know nothing about the 1200 (except that it's the CanBus that scares me) but isn't there a sub-loom?

I can't believe that one small section failure/damage means a whole loom.

That's what I thought too. But the parts people told me it was part of whole harness.

I will try calling BMW Canada and ask them.

 

[John Armstrong]

That's what I thought too. But the parts people told me it was part of whole harness.

Have a look here:
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/MainDiagrams.asp?mospid=47824 and diagram #61_1288

 

[ebbo]

I’m certain the damage is repairable, I’m sure I could do it myself, you just need to find someone good with a soldering iron and heat shrink to do a nice tidy job.

What about a good Auto electrican?

 

[Tomcat]

Have a look on eBay (UK) - I think I saw a complete loom (and the LH switchgear ) for sale, no bids as of yesterday.

Edit: sorry to have raised your hopes. Just had a look on eBay and I can't find the loom any more, only the switchgear.

 

[ebbo]

Changing the whole loom just to repair that damage would be a massive over kill, that’s not the way forward,

 

[Ali-bear]

Forget changing the whole loom it would take weeks !

I could do that repair myself in a few hours, just need good soldering skills and some heat-shrink.

 

[North]

Thanks for the advice.

I am going to get some soldering tools and just take my time. Or take it to an Auto Electrican. I'll see how it goes.

The last time a soldered anything was back in High School.

 

[Hexme]

Ebbo

Enjoyed your link to your trip, nice job

 

[ebbo]

Thanks for the advice.

I am going to get some soldering tools and just take my time. Or take it to an Auto Electrican. I'll see how it goes.

The last time a soldered anything was back in High School.

If you’re going to have a go yourself, I’d recommend some practice on similar size wire before you go for the real thing.

Tin the wires before joining them, that means applying solder to the bare wire ends before attempting to join them. That makes the jointing possess much easier

Don't forget to put heatshrink on before joining the wires

Try to be quick during the soldering process as the plastic insulation can roll back as the wire gets increasingly hot.


Thanks TonyB

 

[Ali-bear]

Get your friendly neighborhood geek kid to do it for beer

 

[North]

Hi,

Practicing is a good idea, I will do that.

Although, getting the geek kid to do it for beer. Would be the way to go.

 

[North]

This is just an update on this old post.

I had a mate over yesterday for a "working on our Bikes day".

I finally did my wire soldering and everything is working. There were 12 small wires and not much wire left on the swtich side. I had to solder in a bit of wire between each broken wire to get the lenght back.

I still can't believe that the BMW dealer would not do the work. Oh well, I saved some coin and became a little better at soldering.