Engine removal 1150 GSA

[Captain Black]

Thought of removing the engine on my black engined adventure as its been cosmetically damaged by corrosion being used but not protected throughout the winters.
I know its a stressed member part of the chassis but wondered just how hard it is to remove or would I need to strip the whole bike down ?

 

[Packer]

Support the pots on axle stands and chock up the final drive. Start with the tank and work down until you just have the engine/transmission assembly. It's the only way I'm afraid.

Not actually difficult, just remember to tag and bag everything with sensible descriptions of what the bits and bolts are and where they go

 

[The smudger]

Check my thread on rolling restoration CB.

Look at the last couple of pages and you'll see what needs to be done, mine is an 1100 but you will need to do exactly the same.

Any tips? yes.

Take LOADS of photos, especially of the routing of cables/wiring etc. You may think you can remember where it all went/what went round where, but trust me, you won't!!!

There is a stud of about a foot long that goes through the back of the engine, which the top of the frame connects to via 2 lugs. It WILL be seized in. DONT TRY TO BATTER IT OUT!!!! You risk breaking the engine, and there will be tears, lots of them. With a bit of gentle bending of the frame lugs you can get the frame off without removing the stud. The stud will be far easier to remove using heat and nuts/spacers to 'pull' it out. Mine was absolutely solid. It took about an hour of gentle heat/working it one way then the other till it came out.

Take your time. Don't go at it like a bull in a china shop otherwise you'll realise just why that saying was invented!!!! They can be a little fragile when you get into them, time and patience is your'e friend..

It looks real difficult but its all just like a massive Meccanno set...

Good luck!

 

[Captain Black]

Thanks for the tips.
It's going to be my first big job when my new garage and bike lift are installed and ready to take on such tasks
The days of me rolling around on the fecking floor are over, I'm also having a service pit put in the service end of my garage so I can fettle my air cooled 911s.
Waited years for this to happen, still a while off but its happening at last!

 

[Fanum]

Definitely photos, all the way.......and a roll of masking tape to hand, with a marker pen.

You can 'tie' up parts of the loom, write on what it goes to/comes from and any other little notes as you take it apart.....

A wadge of the little baggies they use in banks for loose coins are useful as well.....then each time you get to a 'set' of nuts'n'bolts, you can put each 'set' into a different bag, then label them up

It won't stop you from having 7 bolts, a selection of rubber bushes, a dozen washers and a very important looking small spring left over, but it'll help

These are useful as well.....

And a couple of magnetic tray thingies you can drop nuts n bolts into as they come off....once you drop one, it will disappear forever even if you get CSI Manchester in to do a full forensic sweep of the garage

Good luck

PS very jealous about your new working area......I don't even have a fekkking shed to work in

 

[Captain Black]

Definitely photos, all the way.......and a roll of masking tape to hand, with a marker pen.

You can 'tie' up parts of the loom, write on what it goes to/comes from and any other little notes as you take it apart.....

A wadge of the little baggies they use in banks for loose coins are useful as well.....then each time you get to a 'set' of nuts'n'bolts, you can put each 'set' into a different bag, then label them up

It won't stop you from having 7 bolts, a selection of rubber bushes, a dozen washers and a very important looking small spring left over, but it'll help

These are useful as well.....

And a couple of magnetic tray thingies you can drop nuts n bolts into as they come off....once you drop one, it will disappear forever even if you get CSI Manchester in to do a full forensic sweep of the garage

Good luck

PS very jealous about your new working area......I don't even have a fekkking shed to work in

Ok thanks Fanum I shall take note before I make a start. It's a while away yet but its a job I want to do.

 

[Steptoe]

Just unbolt everything in sight - After 30 minutes or so you'll be left with something like this.

Another 5 minutes unbolting and this should fall off onto the floor.

You'll then be left with the engine.

This can be picked up and moved around by hand. Two hours start to finish, including an hour for lunch.

 

[duckspeed]

Best described as removing the bike from the engine rather than taking engine out..

 

[DrAlf]

Best described as removing the bike from the engine rather than taking engine out..

Yep what he said. I've done this twice and it's not quite as easy for a mechanical retard as Steptoe describes. I'd certainly set aside an entire weekend and enlist the help of a mate or two.

If it's just for cosmetic reasons I'd certainly consider just replacing the front engine cover and the valve covers. Much easier but it depends upon the state of your bike and what you'd like to achieve.

Good luck and if you do decide to do the job, get some pix

 

[Fanum]

Just unbolt everything in sight - After 30 minutes or so you'll be coming back from Halfords with the magnet on a stick tool so you can get that nut out from where you dropped it when you undid the tank bolt , thinking that the nut behind the lug just HAS to be captive, 'cos anything else wouldn't make sense




Another 5 minutes unbolting and you'll have bloody knuckles and a stinking headache after failing for the 75th time to fish that fucking lobe connection pipe out from under the tank so you can lift it off.


You'll then be left with the other 99% of the job to do



Two hours start to finish, including an hour for lunch, and you'll have the seat, the tank and maybe the battery off

Fixed to reflect reality in the non-guru world

 

[Captain Black]

Just unbolt everything in sight - After 30 minutes or so you'll be left with something like this.

Another 5 minutes unbolting and this should fall off onto the floor.

You'll then be left with the engine.

This can be picked up and moved around by hand. Two hours start to finish, including an hour for lunch.

That's not taking the engine out that's reverting back to the beginning of time that is!!

eekeek

That's made me feel

Wonder if I could paint it in situ ? Maybe just take the barrels and heads off for a repaint. Then paint the crank case, take the sub frame off and re spray ?

I'm only doing cosmetics FFS!

 

[Deleted account 190117001]

I your gonna do the job do it properly !
The clutch on mine is nearly ready for replacement 76000 miles at the moment,(R1100r)
when it goes, I'll be doing the whole nine yards.
Mechanicals and cosmetics in one hit.

 

[Captain Black]

I your gonna do the job do it properly !
The clutch on mine is nearly ready for replacement 76000 miles at the moment,(R1100r)
when it goes, I'll be doing the whole nine yards.
Mechanicals and cosmetics in one hit.

Yeah but the bike only has 22k miles on it. It's purely a cosmetic exercise due too road salt damage, the mechanics are fine on it.
It's odd because the wheels and the para lever and FD are perfect but the black engine has corrosion white staining and the rear subframe has a little rust. Also the usual paces on the front forks.

 

[flatdog]

Yeah but the bike only has 22k miles on it. It's purely a cosmetic exercise due too road salt damage, the mechanics are fine on it.
It's odd because the wheels and the para lever and FD are perfect but the back engine has corrosion white staining and the rear subframe has a little rust. Also the usual paces on the front forks.

Damned if you do damned if you dont = welcome to my world.

Had mine '52 plate nearly 10 years now with 85K miles, needs cosmetics and the clutch doing, so it will be done sometime soon.

I bought the bike cheap years ago as it was corroded badly but with low miles, decided to live with it until the miles piled up, then do it all - however, 2 years ago I needed a gearbox rebuild - (thnx Scrimingers) but dosh was tight so left out the clutch and refurb then, now my clutch is slipping so this time I'll do the refurb, not worried about the strip rebuild as I found they are relatively easy to strip even for a novice, just have to find the time now.

There are posts about cheap/easy touch ups for those who want a 'clean' looking bike, however it depends on what YOU want.
Personally, Id just keep the old girl clean, live with the corrosion, and do the strip / clean up when major parts need replacing.

 

[Packer]

If yours is anything like mine once you get the gearbox on the bench and look inside the swing arm pivot web you'll find that most of the paint is attached to the gearbox with aluminium oxide!

Have a look at the phone pics I fired off when I did mine in 2011. Here is one example:-

The rest are on my Flickr account, PackerK, you can search for people on the Flickr site.

The corrosion around the oil cooler hose connection points was a potential disaster in the making as well.

This was the first major job I had undertaken on a modern bike, it was straight forward but if I hadn't tagged, bagged and logged the various steps it could have been a nightmare.

Loads of wee flap brushes and wire brushes in a fake Dremel to clean it up.

Hammerite Smoothrite silver over a Hammerite red special metals primer/undercoat on the bits that should have been silver and subframe etc. off for powder coating. Two years later the front engine cover is through to the red primer and will need another coat of silver very soon.

The following year I took the bike on Sgt Bilco's 8,500 mile Alaska trip without problems so I must have put it back together properly

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

No need for all that labour & faffing about, get it up on your ramp and sort the cosmetics with engine in place

Here's one I did earlier


http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136102




.

 

[Captain Black]

I don't think mines as bad as that gearbox corrosion. I'm now thinking given large parts of the bike look ok, shocks under the tank etc maybe take the seat and tank off to evaluate and if its just the lower engine take off the headers, heads and barrels for refurb and try do something with the motor in situ.
Maybe take rear subframe off for a repaint and replace grotty fastenings as I go with stainless.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Cap'n Black

Let's see the pics of yours then, is it really that bad?

 

[Packer]

I don't think mines as bad as that gearbox corrosion.

Mine didn't look bad either until I lifted a loose edge of paint and then another and then another.................

The heat from the catalyst does a fine job of promoting corrosion. I don't think that BMW pacify the metal components before the cheapo paint is thrown at it either so that allows the corrosion to creep under the paint.

 

[Captain Black]

Cap'n Black

Let's see the pics of yours then, is it really that bad?

I'll do some when the rain stops and I get chance this weekend.