Expanding Autocom Active Duo to a bike to bike system?

Bobbin-Man

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I have an Autocom Active Duo fitted that I'm very pleased with, works brilliantly hard-wired with my Zumo but I'd now like to expand to "bike to bike" comms. I've searched the forum and I think I've worked out the bits I need to link the Autocom to a Kenwood TK-3301 ... but can someone more knowledgeable confirm I'm looking at the correct bits?

1. Autocom handlebar PTT switch

2. Autocom Kenwood Interface lead

The grey plug on the Active Duo is the 5-pin type - I'm assuming the connection is simply the PTT lead plugged into the Autocom, then the interface lead added on and connected to the Kenwood radio? Is there anything else I need to consider, and does this set enable charging of the Kenwood radio or will this need to be wired separately?

Stu.
 
I'm using the active duo bike to bike and have for about the last five years and all worked great.

I think that you've got the right bits by the look of it, but if you give chain speed a ring there is a chap there that know's what he is talking about and he will put you in the right direction. Can't remember his name but he has always been +1 with me and a few of my mates have used the same chap

Rob
 
I agree that you have the right bits.

The Active Duo cannot be used to power the Kenwood - you risk burning out the Autocom as there is no adequate heat sink to cope with the power draw of the radio. You can use either the Kenwood battery or a Battery eliminator.

The Kenwood 3301 is a super radio, but I have had decent results with much cheaper Kenwoods (the Funkey) as well. It depends on the range you need.

Hope this helps,

John
 
Looks the the correct parts to me :thumb2

As said the Active Plus can't power the radio. You'll need to either use the rechargeable battery or get a battery eliminator. Be advised that the battery eliminator may give GLI (Ground Loop Interference) which will manifest itself as an audio buzz. This is due to both the intercom and radio being bike powered but having different paths to ground. The Autocom battery eliminator uses a common ground as it powers though the intercom itself. If going for a separate battery eliminator then connect this to the same power source as the Autocom. I did this with the battery eliminator for my Puxing radio and it works without perceivable interference.

You might find that the battery eliminator you buy does the voltage conversion in the dummy battery rather than in the cigar lighter adaptor, meaning that this last bit can be cut off making for a neater install and the ability to match the length of the power leads (radio and Autocom) to further mitigate the possibility of GLI. Worth asking Wildtalk (see link above), in my experience they are very helpful. The cigar lighter adapter on my battery eliminator was just a straight 12v pass though so it got cut off.

Regarding all things Autocom; the guys you need to speak to at Chainspeed are either Sam or Bryn.

You might want to consider an external antenna such as the one from Bikers Oracle. Having the ability to locate the radio under the seat yet have a decent antenna placed vertically in a location of your choosing will make a very significant difference to the range you achieve. Lying a radio down, especially under bodywork and near frame/engine/other electricals, will reduce range to a few hundred yards, having it upright and well positioned will give you far better reach. This summer myself (leading) and TEC on a group tour to the Vosges mountains were getting 2-3 miles in real world conditions with BO antenna kits. Obviously if a mountain gets in the way you get no signal. I've seen some GSs with the radio itself mounted up near the bars/screen, which is a good compromise without needing to buy the antenna kit.

For the TK3301 you will need to resort to surgery to install an SMA connector if you want to use an external antenna. I know of people who have done this successfully to TK3201s, your radio's predecessor. Apparently parts are std. Kenwood parts for a different model and screw onto the chassis.
 
Just ask Sam at Chainspeed, he will be more than happy to give some advice :thumb
 


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